Josin’s 2026 cruise, #11

Trondheim to Rørvik

Restaurant Osteria Moderna in Trondheim turned out to be a very good choice by John Magnus and Mariell, excellent food, discreet service, good space and a high ceiling where the noise disappeared. Family communication successful.

Started early next morning, goal was back to Brekstad. Forecasts good early, not so good later. Check. Motoring the first leg, westover into the wind, but then round the corner and northward and a fine sailing wind, a bit squally, most of the way to Brekstad. Meeting the waves and rain in Trondheimsleia the last few miles was a contrast and disappointment.
Next day it rained and blew enough to deter us from moving, so we went for a little shopping between showers. Brekstad is rather long and thin, the older part nearer the harbour is looking a bit sad, the newer developments further away comprehensive.

Next day, another early start to take advantage of promising westerly. From Brekstad one must go west first for about 5 nm before turning north. Those miles took over one and a half hours of motoring into short, choppy waves which really slowed Josin down. But having turned north, with the wind on the beam, we charged along under just half the genoa at full boat speed and fairly flat water except in the exposed parts, past a rather special old lighthouse, Kjeungskjæret, on the way:

all the way to Stoksund, (64 02.4N 01 03.7E). Theatrically dark clouds chased past, a few of them dropping remarkably cold showers of rain. We were glad to tie up in the very well sheltered guest harbour.
Forecasts for the next day were for continued WSW winds, reducing slowly later. But for the day after, almost continuous rain. We decided that there was nowhere along the way forward to entice us to spend a day sheltering, and aimed for Rørvik, (54 51.7N 011 13.8E).
It was 61,6 nm and 10 and a half hours. Fine full genoa sailing the first few hours, but, rather sooner than the forecasts said, lower wind speed. This combined with meeting the North Sea rollers over the exposed stretch Folla, ment that the engine had to do more of the work, until there was not enough wind to hold the sail full when the boat rolled. So just engine the last part. Had the engine running at low revs also earlier, to help the rudder steer. An Albin Ballad corkscews along in quartering seas, and these were big.
Lesser wind and waves meant that Kari could relax in the cabin, and she spent a very productive time knitting.

What? Thick socks for me, to go in my seaboots. Lucky me, specially my toes.

Very nautical don’t you think? Luxury!

Rørvik harbour was full, mostly very large boats of the long-distance type, and we only found a private slot available. Sure as eggs, just as we were settling down to dinner, the owner arrived, and we had to move, under the very helpful guidance of the young harbourmaster, to another private slot, but owner on holiday.

Today it has rained, as predicted, so we were glad of our decision yesterday. In a rain-pause we hurried to the shopping center. There, just outside, was a relatively new shop, “Smak”, (meaning Tasty), selling succulent stuff, including tasty local, well aged cheeses. We indulged.

Those of you who are on Facebook are able to read Kari’s daily postings, in Norwegian, (Google translate helps), with more of our doings and don´’tings Seek “Kari Cotton”.

Alls well,
DampJohn

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josinjohn

Sailor. Senior citizen.

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