The route from Ålesund to Bud, (waiting place to go over Hustadvika), was enjoyable because we could sail almost all the way, but less so because of the intermittent rain. (When is the summer weather coming?). Having negotiated the islands and rocks, well signposted, out of the area north east of Bud in calm conditions, we emerged into open sea and not-so-calm ones. Image tries to give an impression of the plethora of markers and lights, but not really instructive. The cloudy skies are though.
The wind gradually increased until I began to think about reducing sail, (that, the pundits say, is when one should do it), but I remembered what the forecast wind was, 15 to 18 knots, force 5, and thought I would wait a while. Needen’t have done. So, rolled in nearly half the genoa, no main today, and was still doing 6 -7 knots, bobbing and rolling. Then rain, and poor visibility, and wet gloom, and commercial ships appearing suddenly. First an uncomfortable rounding of Stad, and now this? Weather is variable, remember! The wind blew relentlessly, so the sail was rolled in well before going under the bridge and entering Kristiansund’s harbour under engine. Nearly empty guest pontoons made it easy to choose. Attach mooring ropes, couple up to shore power and turn on the heater, divest wet and put on dry, and soon the gloom was banished.
Next morning was heavy skies and intermittent rain, so I caught the bus to the shopping center, called Futura (!), and sheltered and shopped a bit. Yes, there’s both Biltema and Clas Ohlson there, but no boat things, that’s in the town. Returned later to find four more sailing boats moored on the same pontoon, all of which were last seen in Måløy, and on the MT app, disappearing round Stad the day I turned back.
Which is interesting. It seems to support my observation that, over time and distance when cruising, the daily average distance covered is between 25 and 30 nm, all conditions taken into consideration. Only the racers try for more. So pontoon talk is of common experiences and special ones. Mine was watching several gannets fishing, really close to Josin, an impressing sight. Impossible to film or photo unfortunately.
Today, saturday, the sun is actually trying to shine, on a calm harbour but contrary winds outside. The little flotilla is staying put. Tomorrow looks promising for further sailing northward.
The night in Sherjehamn (60 56.6N 004 57.3E), was very broken by having to re-organise fenders and ropes every so often to stop bumping hull to jetty, and sleep was intermittent. Conditions gradually subsided enough later in the morning to be able to get away, by rolling the boat along the pontoon on the fenders and then making a dash for it. It worked, and we were on our way again. Northerly wind, on the nose and too much of it, made for a hobby-horse ride and lots of spray. Tiring too! A lovely day helped! Christer caught us up on the way, and our little flotilla tied up in Askvoll (61 20.8N 005 04.0E), in private slots, harbour otherwise full. The owners were luckily away.
Next morning, after the cuppa, I was determined to have a last try at fixing Tone’s autopilot. Googled away til I had found the original user guide and read it thoroughly. So, after breakfast, Tone pottered Arctic Vibe out into the bay and we went through the whole start-up procedure having first done a factory reset. And Lo! it worked. Everybody surprised, and Tone very happy. The probable problem? The little memory-man in there had not been updated so he thought he was somewhere quite else, was confused and made desperate steering changes to try and reach there.
Off we go again, flotilla led by Josin, ‘cos the way through the islands was familiar, thankfully less seas today, past Florø, (61 36.1N 005 01.9E), and then NE into the wide fjord south of Bremangerlandet, where we hoped the wind would let us sail. It did, just, sometimes, but needed help to get up to windward occasionally.
Then the long curve to babord past Hornilen, the highest straight fall into the sea from about 1000 meters, (Christer being a climber ogled the possibility, another time), impossible to photograph, but from round the corner in Skåtestrømmen, seen from the rear side, it is still impressive.
Then in to Måløy (61 56.0N 005 06.8E), fairly late, to see one of those huge cruise ships at the quay, luckily not covering the guest harbour.
There we met Mitzy, another solosailor, who helped us dock, and who suggested pizza. Done. Unfortunately, and very embarassingly indeed, just as I was organising ropes and fenders and unawares, a strong gust of wind pushed Josin into the quay, result:
A very squiffy pulpit. It will be straightened out next winter.
Skippers meeting next morning agreed that conditions were good for rounding Stad, so, after bobbing in the queue for diesel, off we went, youth first, rapidly, then Josin, then Arctic Vibe a little later. But Artic Vibe didn’t move on the AIS plotter. I sent a message and Tone replied that she couldn’t start her engine, so I returned to help, Stad still begnign. There followed intensive efforts by a mechanic from ships engineering co Verlo and I over the next two days but had to sadly conclude that the engine was tired of life and had given up. Tone made arrangements to get towed to a workshop where the engine could be lifted out and worked on, unfortunately not before august, and get herself back home now and return then.
So, the “leaky gang” was now disbursed.
I, yesterday, that’s saturday 20th, set off once again to round Stad, this time with no wind and much more confused seas, in fact the worst I’ve experienced, to be rewarded by calmer waters and a fine sailing breeze which took us all the way to Ålesund. Now, outside the city, at about this time of the summer solstice, an enormous tower built of pallets and drums is raised on a bare promentory. It is set alight at 21:00, and becomes a gigantic beacon, finally subsiding in a ball if flames and sparks, about two hours later. It was 35 meters high and looked like this. Lots of pics of it burning were posted on social media, you google “Slinningsbål”
I motored gently past it on the way to Ålesund Seilforening’s harbour (62 28.1N 006 12.4E) further into the fjord, where i found a free slot and was helped in by someone from the next door boat, whose cockpit was overflowing with happy youth, just about off to see the beacon.
The wind increased during the night to 15 m/sec, neargale force, making sleep difficult with all rigging on the surrounding boats whistling and screeching. Music to some. This wind is predicted to continue, although slightly less, for the next two days, so I’m staying put and visit friends.
Sorry about the rather long pause since the last posting, time to write has seemed to elusive. Opinions about the weather were divided in Egersund, while the southerly wind whistled in the rigging. Christer chose strong sailing wind and plenty rain, (youth survives being wet maybe), and departed next day, to report later that the rain stopped earlier than predicted and he had a fast sail to Tananger. Tone and I waited for hopefully dryer conditions.
Christer’s contortions in the nether aft regions of Tone’s Maxi Fenix found the source of leakage, a loose through-hull fitting of the engine exhaust. Incomplete tightening of the nut left space and opportunity for it to corrode solid on its threads. So, how to fix? More Christer contortions over the stern with sealant pistol leaving a generous collar around the flange, hopefully to stop the inflow. Time will tell.
Josin and Artic Vibe departed very early next day in the hope of getting the best out of the day, conditions were gentle and we motor-sailed for quite a while. Gradually the clouds appeared, and explosively grew to impressive proportions and darkness. Such CumuloNimbus clouds when developed, generate their own local weather system, with strong downdraughts of varying direction and strength. So it was over the Jær coast, where there is nowhere to hide. It rained and blew and was chillingly cold. In between the showers, we sailed and were encouraged by beautiful rainbows.
Decision It was a long day to Skudeneshavn (59 08.9N 005 15.5E) and during the pauses in the more stressful periods of uncomfortable conditions, I came to the conclusion that the combination of possibly, probably similar conditions in the North Sea this un-summery summer, (there is yet another low developing over in the SW atlantic), and my aged stamina were together perhaps a bit too daunting, and I decided to cut out the Shetland plan. Sad but also glad.
Skudeneshavn, (fantastic building on the way in)
was, as always, calm and sheltered, with only one other sailboat there. Being rather weary and impatiently hungry, we headed for the pizza restaurant in the square. Blank windows. Closed. Bother. On the other side of the square is the hotel, with restaurant, but we were not sartorial, so back to boat and bacon and eggs. Later a knock on the boat and there was Knut, lives nearby with his sailboat tied up outside the back door. Another who’d read Seilmagasinet and was keen to talk about solo sailing. He’ll be off on a long sail soon.
Next morning the wind blew still and we were blown and bourn (strong current) up the fjord to Haugesund, (59 24.7N 005 16.1E) quayside top with all new boarding and tie-up points. There is an excellent boat things shop there, on the quay, with almost everything, unfortunately not an autopilot for Tone, as hers had finally given up, in spite of my diligent scrutiny of the user guide. The only way of not buying something in a boat thing shop is not to go there I find. Well, I needed another bottle of diesel treatment anyway.
Onward for a few hours to Eltravåg, (59 33.8N 005 17.0E) to be received by Reidun, (friend of a sailing friend), a fast ferry skipper and X-X, (sorry, didn’t write your double name down), in a sudden shower which wetted us all well. A very convivial evening and a good night’s sleep.
Rather late start next morning, waiting for the weather to improve, which it didn’t, and the´ wind to blow in the right direction, which it did. Goal was Strusshamn, (60 24.2N 005 11.5E) near Bergen, and we made good progress until the wind turned north, it started to rain and we motored. For the first time under way, I struggled the cockpit canopy almost in place and could be less wet, but Tone was exposed, and got more wet and cold, so we heaved to and while Josin towed Arctic Vibe very slowly round and round in small circles, Tone got into dry clothes and humour was restored. The rest of the way was tedious and in almost fog, plenty traffic to keep me busy. Strusshamn at 21:50 was nearly full, but we both squeezed into one wide berth and shut hatches. Dry clothes. Anchor dram. Food. Sleep. Woke early to find it chilly. The shore power had gone. Out to investigate. Switches all on. Fuse box locked. Lucky that Josin has a powerful inverter to power the kettle. Early morning cuppa saved.
Next day, that must’ve been yesterday, (saturday), after proviantering and dieseling we motored north, wind against still, to Litle Bergen, (60 32.4N 005 14.4E) where Tone skulle hente en genoa sail. Confusion, directions incorrect. Time passed. Found in the end. So we stayed the night there.
Sunday now, today, woke to clear skies and glorious sunshine, no wind and mirrorcalm water. Not so many layers of clothes today. Our little flotilla was on the move before 8 and headed again north. Decided to stop for lunch at Sherjehamn, (60 56.6N 004 57.3E), bit later than planned when we got there, but there was still fish soup. Excellent! What we had not done, poor seamanship on my part, was to tie up such that if the wind strengthened it would be difficult to leave. It did, a lot, and changed direction so that the harbour jetty didn’t break the waves. Result: We were pinned to the pontoon by wind, over 30 knots in the gusts, and small sharp waves which jumped the fenders up and we bumped pontoon, ouch! Everything which could be used as a fender was employed, but I eventually plucked up courage and called Redningselskap, who help sailors in trouble. I could report no casualties but our boats would be dented or even crushed if the wind and waves didn’t calm a bit. After discussion as to how they could help and availability, (from at least an hour away), we were assured that the wind wasn’t expected to increase, but calm down soon. Well, my optimistic self agreed and the wind is now really on the wane.
The old and the new. The place. In place. And neri a leak afterward. Breeeeeath out! Experience has shown that the old pump had probably been leaking oil as well, as the basin under the engine has kept completely clean after a good deal of running. Well, that chapter is now closed. Putter to Breddalsholmen.
Didn’t stay more that one night at Breddalsholmen, as it was too disturbed by wash-waves, so we moved into Kristiansand’s guest harbour, which was better. Rather surprised that fees had increased significantly. Nearly Kr 400,- per night for stay and power, even for the smallest category of boat. Glad we’re in that and not bigger.
Next day I was royally looked after by sailerfriend Svein’s daughter Elisabeth, including a fine sightseeing tour of interested places around K’sand, and under-and-over to Flekkerøy island, a quite different environment to K’sand itself. Delicious summery meal in the evening and a long chat with rest of the family.
Next day, I had to find sourdough bread before leaving. A long trek to The Odd Bakery, which had no less than five variants.
The loaf was hot, just out of the oven, so had to be carried in airy bag.
Then, in sunshine, but rather contrary breeze, we motored and motorsailed past plan A, Mandal, mostly inside the skerries and islands, to plan B, Farsund, being eager to make up for lost days. Briefly there met Flemming, on a rather special Danish sailboat. His guests arriving, chat was short, but glad to be back here down south, as up north had been very rainy and cold.
Set off early next morning as weather forecasts were positive for next goal of Egersund, where the guest harbour is right in the middle of the charming town. It is also an excellent place to have to wait for the weather over the next bit, the Jaer coastline, fully exposed to north sea weather and winds.
Lo!, there was Tone, of leaky boat acquaintance earlier. Also another solo sailor, Christer. Here we are gathered this morning on Josin to discuss weather and route over the next few days, over coffee and (one) biscuit.
Very wet and windy the next few days as North Sea lows compete for space and attention. Difficult for Tone and Christer as they have north Norway as a goal and not too much time. The choice is for later today with lots of rain and too much wind aft, or tomorrow with less rain early on, less wind but abeam instead of aft. Choice later I’m staying put! We are going to help Tone to try and find the last source of leakage, probably coming from inaccessible places aft in her Maxi Fenix. Christer will be the contortionist, we will be the holder of tools and murmurs of encouragement. Useful things one can do on a rainy, windy day, aren’t there! Report later.
I last reported we were in Tallakshavn, looking forward to the rest of the season. The sun shone and there was a small breeze next morning to waft us to Stavern, (58 60.0N 010 02.6E), to visit old friend Sven Rønne. His wife of 52 years had recently passed so he was rather sad, finding his place alone. We had a good chat over coffee and philosophised over life. Stavern havn was empty and quiet, early in the season yet, but the diesel pump delivered and food was stocked in the Meny store just up the road. Just look at that blue sky!
Replete in fuel tank and fridge, (working perfectly), we motored SE out to beyond the rocks-and-hindrances area of Rakkebåene and headed SW to Melbyfjord, (58 57.4N 009 38.2E), where neighbours Synnøve and Asbjørn have a summer place. Shallow, choppy water, small dingy with marginal freeboard, frenetic rowing by Synnøve brought us damp-footed ashore. Marvellous sheltered place with wonderful views of the Skagerakk. Synnøve produced a maxi-lunch. Later, back out to Josin, blustery wind ahead required dual-rowing on the oars to achieve progress. Interesting technique! Course onward was to Stråholmen, (58 54.2N 009 38.E). Only a few n miles for motor against the wind, but long enough for the leakage problem to re-appear. Oh dear. What now.? More serious problem than first thought obviously. Much clicking on web pages revealed two possible sources of help; One back in Tønsberg, and the other near Kristiansand. So, logically, being in the right direction, to “Kristiansand Båt og Motor”, (58 07.0N 008 06.3E), where we got help last year. Took two days, mostly motoring, with bailing ca 5 liters of water from under the engine every half hour, including gymnastics to achieve access. Arrived sunday evening. Made and consumed a large dinner, followed by pump removal, this time much quicker and no harm to knuckles. Bearings were all sloppy so it wasn’t surprising that the seal had given up the task. New pump required. This morning, at 08:05, I entered the spareparts department primed with pump partnumber gleaned from the web, and friendly Frode tasted up a pump, available tomorrow express. The price was astronomical, but “normal” for boat engine spares I suppose. At least I can justify it by almost guaranteeing a problem-free pump. Rest of today has been spent pootling small tasks on Josin, mostly inside, as the summer had disappeared for a while. Sunshine back now. Having installed the shiny new pump tomorrow, course will be set for Bredalsholmen, (58 06.6N 007 59.5E), just outside Kristiansund city, where there is lots of activity with veteran boats. Shall also visit family of my late-departed sailorvenn Svein Tangen.
