Month: July 2026

Josin’s 2026 cruise, #15

A belated update.

After Vegstein, it has been engine only, with variable amounts of contrary winds, rain or showers and sitting in the sheltered cockpit waiting to get to the next harbour, the last being Brekstad before this missive, where we took a pause from the elements.

Yesterday was wednesday, 29th july, a very loooong day, from Brekstad to Kristiansund, 66 nautical miles, for motor, with occasional hjelp from the genoa.

Having waited out the two previous days for the wind to slow down and the rain showers to disappear, wednesday looked promising.
The alarm rang at 5 o’clock. Earlymorningcuppa, weather forecasts and head poked out confirmed the promise. Its on! Plans A,B and C were already plotted in. The routine for long days; ready-buttered bread sandwiches, tins of sardines and the like, choclate and nuts and thermos filled to the brim.

Cast off at 06:35, short stop for diesel, 31 liters including splash-waste, (sorry milieu), and out through the harbour opening at 06:50. Westward, westward!

Some help from the breeze on the port quarter coming up from the Trondheim fjord during the first hour or so, and the current assisting, meant that we made very good progress in the right direction. Gradually though, the wind disappeared and the current changed direction. Not so enthusiastic. Still Plan A, Kristiansund? OK yes, but it’ll be late on.

But it was a day of surprises, not only boredom. The morning changed gradually as the clouds thinned and blue-sky-patches appeared., (my granny would have said “Enough blue sky to patch a sailorman’s trousers”), and allowed the sun to shine. At last! Welcome back dear SUN, long time no see!
It got warmer, and layer upon layer of wooly clothing got dragged over my head. Where I was sitting the sun was behind me, and I almost got the tickle of sunburn in my neck. Well I never!

The engine purred away, reliable as always, and the miles slipped astern. Ships of all sizes, fast and slow, passed in both directions, got waved to, and went on their seemingly inevitable way. The Trondheimsleia, (or fjord), is wide and long, with space for all, and seems almost infinite at a speed of five and a half knots.

High cloud came gradually in from the west and veiled the sun, the temperature sank thereafter and the wind began to blow on the nose. Re-layer in woolies.

Trondheimsleia gets more and more open to the west, and both the North Sea rollers and the wind-blown waves slowed us down and created rock-and-roll. The clouds descended and started leaking, then rained, just to compound the discomfort.
Even a change of course, more southerly, towards Kristiansund didn’t fill the genoa, rolled out and quickly rolled in again.

Welcomely calm waters in Kristiansund’s extensive harbour made for relaxed preparations for tying up, and shore lines were fixed at 19:00 precisely.
12 hours. Engine running all the time, but the variations in wind, weather, sunshine, rain and the rest alleviated the boredom.

Batten the hatches. Turn on the heater. Un-wool. Food; (baked beans on toast. Dinner not inviting, and I wasn’t going out in the rain). Cuppa. Bed. Sleep. End of day.

Woke up this morning to flat calm in the harbour and gentle light drizzle. No sighns of life in the other boats. Having studied all the weather forecasts, the plan for the day is to take it easy this morning, re-evaluate at lunchtime and possible depart at 14:00 for the voyage over Hustavika, a stretch which can be a bit uncomfortable.
We’ll see.

Alls well,
impatient-for-warmth-John

Josin’s 2026 cruise, #14

Sorry about the pause…..

Since Kari came on board and has been writing a daily posting in Facebook, I reckoned that writing anything here was a bit superfluous, and after Kari disembarked in Bodø, I rather continued the posting there. For those who have only this source of Josin-news, I apologise, and need to write an update.

From Selsøyvik to Bodø the weather was consistent and non-summery, and we motored almost all the way, boring really and not much to report. No windless opportunity to un-wuzzle the genaker, so the shame continued.

However, after a day in Bodø with various simple tasks, Kari took a taxi the airport early on the friday and flew home to warmth and welcoming Sirius the cat. It was most enjoyable having Kari’s company on board, and a bit empty and sad afterward. She left me with a pair of thick socks, hand-knitted under way, to keep my toes warm inside sailing boots. They have done!

Rather surprising, the weather forecast for saturday was promising, for both favourable wind direction and better weather, so I was ready early, but foiled by a last shower of rain. Pause. No point in getting wet at the start of a day’s sailing.

And sailed we did! All the way from Bodø til Selsøyvik, with a little help from the engine in contrary currents past Sørfugleøya after a couple of hours, and to Støtt. Støtt was first choice for the day, but there was plenty of the day left, the sun was shining and the wind was favourable, so we continued. And past the second choice, Bolga too. A fantastic contrast to days and weeks before.
And sunday was almost the same, with a bit more sailtrimming due to variable winds from around the mountains.

Last two hours needed engine as the course veered westerly into the dying wind. Ended up in the natural harbour of Hjartøya, my favourite anchorage in this area.
At last a very quiet evening allowed the un-wuzzling of the genaker, which is now properly hoisted and rolled in tight, ready for new use.

Yesterday, from Hjartøya to Vegstein, all motor with gentle wind on the nose, passed this incredible sculpture on a small island, rather far from any habitation. That has a long story, with roots in ancient history, but basically a fiery priest, Peter Dass, riding the devil in the form of a goat, to reach Copenhagen in time to preach the Christmas sermon. (Terrible lighting, sorry).


Now a day in Vegstein as its raining again. Brighter tomorrow morning, hopefully.

Southtalong John.

Josin’s 2026 cruise, #13

How not to do it.

This season’s weather has recently been only cloudy gray, sunless, rain occasionally and sometimes foggy-drizzle, typically:


But the wind has been mostly southerly/westerly, så sailing has been downwind. One appreciates the positives!
So it was from Sandnessjøen (66 01.3N 012 37.7E) til Selsøyvik (66 34.3N 01258.9E).
On the way we crossed the Arctic Circle, (66 33.85N), and…….

“There it was the Dreadful Fate befell us, which I now relate” (Hillaire Belloc).

No, it wasn’t that dreadful, but stressful and educational.
Started from Sandnessjøen for motor in a little wind, which gradually increased to about 10 knots, ideal genaker breeze.
The genaker had not yet been out of its bag this cruise, so it was prepared the evening before in Sandnessjøen. Getting the various ropes correctly organised needs patience and no other activities, like sailing for example.
Correct preparation and waiting for the right breeze paid off, as the sail unrolled without a hitch and were floating along at a comfortable speed and grinning.
After only a quarter of an hour or so we sailed into a wind shadow and had to roll the sail in again. All went well, again. A while later, we were un-shadowed and again rolled the sail out and we were back sailing. This is getting easier by the minute!
A steady 5 to 6 knots, without the engine noise, was perfect.

Nearing our goal for the day, the wind very gradually increased to close to my preferred limit of 15 knots true, and I thought about rolling the genaker in. But, we were getting very close to the Arctic Circle, and I thought that the “Island with the Globe on it” would give wind shadow.
Tradition was honoured by blowing a horn when passing the circle, (nobody to hear):

and we sailed on to find that the presumed shadow was more of a funnel and suddenly the wind was blowing 20 knots.
You know the saying, ” if you are thinking about reefing sails, its probably too late”.
Well, it was!
There was so much power in the sail that the force on the roller line made slow hauling, (I used to be stronger), and in-rolling didn’t happen. We were of course going straight downwind and Norway was getting closer, so no time to un-roll the genoa to give shelter for the genaker. Should have done that first of course. So, last method, lower the halyard gradually and let the water douse the sail. Partially successful, which meant both of us hauling thin sailcloth in handfuls over the railing. Boat still heading downwind to try and tame those 52 square meters, but it was a struggle. Norway getting closer still so started the engine, in neutral of course, to avoid getting sail in the prop, which would have been a Dreadful Fate. At last the sail was mostly inboard and tamed, we breathed out, engaged gear and course set for Selsøyvik, just around the corner.
We high-fived.
Kari later bundled the sail to the rail with luggage straps and line, and there it will stay for all to see, in my shame, until Josin is moored and there is no wind.

Alls otherwise well,
ContriteJohn.

Josin’s 2026 cruise, #12

Rørvik to Brønnøysund.

Another motor-sailing day, slight north-going current, but no rain, just threatening clouds and poor visibility.
The strange shape, on the chart, of an island on the way when plotting the route, jogged the memory. Wasn’t it there that, on an earlier trip, I’ve seen an eagle?
Plan route that way. And yes, about here. Suddenly. One flew past on the port side, remarkably close and low down, then soared up and flew to its favourite tree. Must have swooped down to either have a look at us or scare us away. We fumbled for cameras but it was too far away, so we made a tight U-turn and puttered back, slowly, so as not to disturb it. We didn’t. It just sat there. 10x tele-lens, but still very small.

On, to Skei, E side of Leka, with the genoa helping a bit more. Just space for Josin, on the end of the pontoon. Several boats which were in Rørvik, so now we are part of the steem.

Next day, flat calm, with low clouds which didn’t leak. To Brønnøysund.
On the way, nearly there, is Torghatten, with the famous hole through the mountain.
On previous trips I have been to close to be able to see it so we tracked to the other side of the fjord to get a better angle. But we only saw just the top, which was strange. What was blocking the view? Mystery.

Brønnøysund. Guest harbour only half full. Bit of shopping in Havnesenteret, then quiet evening and rain again.
You know when you’ve arrived in Brønnøysund. Substantially based pole to tell you that you are only half way between the bottom and the top of Norway

Next morning, this morning, is just as bleak, and dripping from anything that can hold a drop.

As I took the photo, a trawler came in, (background). A shrimper! with notice saying “ferske reker”, which you all can guess means “fresh shrimp”. People waiting. Must be selling. Get dressed quickly. Join the queue. I was nr 6 when I got there. He had beige crates full. Bought just one liter.
The queue got longer in a steady stream of people. I said to the next in the queue, “Must be popular this shrimp boat”, or Norwegian words to that effect. The reply was “Det er fredag”. Succinct. Local knowledge. Schedule.

By the time I’d bought and paid, the queue had got longer and it just grew. Buyers cars parked all over the place!

When it stops drizzling, and being foggy, we shall motor the three hours to Vegstein, NE corner of Vega, and visit friends.

Alls well,
ShrimpsoonJohn.

Josin’s 2026 cruise, #11

Trondheim to Rørvik

Restaurant Osteria Moderna in Trondheim turned out to be a very good choice by John Magnus and Mariell, excellent food, discreet service, good space and a high ceiling where the noise disappeared. Family communication successful.

Started early next morning, goal was back to Brekstad. Forecasts good early, not so good later. Check. Motoring the first leg, westover into the wind, but then round the corner and northward and a fine sailing wind, a bit squally, most of the way to Brekstad. Meeting the waves and rain in Trondheimsleia the last few miles was a contrast and disappointment.
Next day it rained and blew enough to deter us from moving, so we went for a little shopping between showers. Brekstad is rather long and thin, the older part nearer the harbour is looking a bit sad, the newer developments further away comprehensive.

Next day, another early start to take advantage of promising westerly. From Brekstad one must go west first for about 5 nm before turning north. Those miles took over one and a half hours of motoring into short, choppy waves which really slowed Josin down. But having turned north, with the wind on the beam, we charged along under just half the genoa at full boat speed and fairly flat water except in the exposed parts, past a rather special old lighthouse, Kjeungskjæret, on the way:

all the way to Stoksund, (64 02.4N 01 03.7E). Theatrically dark clouds chased past, a few of them dropping remarkably cold showers of rain. We were glad to tie up in the very well sheltered guest harbour.
Forecasts for the next day were for continued WSW winds, reducing slowly later. But for the day after, almost continuous rain. We decided that there was nowhere along the way forward to entice us to spend a day sheltering, and aimed for Rørvik, (54 51.7N 011 13.8E).
It was 61,6 nm and 10 and a half hours. Fine full genoa sailing the first few hours, but, rather sooner than the forecasts said, lower wind speed. This combined with meeting the North Sea rollers over the exposed stretch Folla, ment that the engine had to do more of the work, until there was not enough wind to hold the sail full when the boat rolled. So just engine the last part. Had the engine running at low revs also earlier, to help the rudder steer. An Albin Ballad corkscews along in quartering seas, and these were big.
Lesser wind and waves meant that Kari could relax in the cabin, and she spent a very productive time knitting.

What? Thick socks for me, to go in my seaboots. Lucky me, specially my toes.

Very nautical don’t you think? Luxury!

Rørvik harbour was full, mostly very large boats of the long-distance type, and we only found a private slot available. Sure as eggs, just as we were settling down to dinner, the owner arrived, and we had to move, under the very helpful guidance of the young harbourmaster, to another private slot, but owner on holiday.

Today it has rained, as predicted, so we were glad of our decision yesterday. In a rain-pause we hurried to the shopping center. There, just outside, was a relatively new shop, “Smak”, (meaning Tasty), selling succulent stuff, including tasty local, well aged cheeses. We indulged.

Those of you who are on Facebook are able to read Kari’s daily postings, in Norwegian, (Google translate helps), with more of our doings and don´’tings Seek “Kari Cotton”.

Alls well,
DampJohn

Josin’s 2026 cuise, #10

Kristiansund to Trondheim.

Tied up in Kristiansund was this enormous vessel, (you can just see a human there), obviously built to serve the fish farming business. Saw it in action a couple of days later, apparently dealing with a net under one of its many cranes. Couldn’t get any closer, these fish farms are protected by lines of large very yellow buoys at a good distance. Trespassers william.


Had a good sail in sunshine from Kristiansund for a couple of hours before the wind rather suddenly stopped as a signal for a black-cloud front to march across the sky from the south west. Then it rained, heavily. Then it cleared with a good breeze on the nose. Motored on and tied up in Magerøya, (63 26.9N 008 59.3E), quiet and plenty of space so early in the season. Too late for the restaurant, which is apparently good. A favourite spot for day-trippers.


Next day, late start after the rain had cleared, the 30 nm to Brekstad, (63 41.1N 009 40.1E) motorsailing, motoring, boring.
Brekstad has a fast ferry to Trondheim, very convenient for sailors wanting to visit the city without sailing the two days to get there and back.

Next day to Trondheim under very variable “showers and bright periods” weather. Started with 15 knots of warm wind on the beam and fine boat speed for an hour and then calm. Then chilly rain. Then clearing and much more wind astern. Then calm. Then…..Repeat. To T’heim’s Skansen guest harbour, (63 26.0N 010 22.4E), in very trying gusty wind. Good help tying up from an English sailboat, crew busy struggling with extra fenders. Shades of Skjerjehavn! And just as uncomfortable until late.
Skansen harbour has changed, fewer pontoon meters, no El on some, and the facilities have been closed. This was discovered after i had paid the mooring fee for several nights and also paid for shower and washing machine. The receipt for the washing machine said it was for the other harbour, in Brattøra. Frustrating!
So next morning I filled up with diesel and pottered to Brattøra guest harbour, (63 26.3N 010 23.9E) instead. To find it full, so had to raft up, to welcoming Moonraker.


As you see from the left pic, the harbour is only a short walk to Trondheim’s sentral station, very convenient for crew changes. Moonraker is one of these roaming boats,(large) who take on paying crew for stages. Very tempting, but ah, no!

Kari arrived on the train in late evening and was duly installed in Josin’s forecastle suite. Late snack of local strawberries before sleep. Lovely to have her on board for a week or so, compensation for no Shetland trip.

I won’t bother you withe the saga about achieving access to the facilities here in Brattøra guest harbour, the shower escaped me but the washing machine didn’t. Suffice it to say that payments, which result in an access code, must be made in the strict order in which they are to be used. Otherwise a helpful but somewhat impatient man on the telephone has to be consulted when a code doesn’t work. Sailors beware!

Early sunshine this morning. Later Kari and I will be meeting John Magnus and Mariell for a restaurant dinner. That’ll be good.

Alls well,
PappaJohn