Josin’s 2022 cruise, #16.

There has been a pause, sorry, but I’ve been very busy boating.

Today is Thursday, 21st, and we are back in Sandvik, on the west coast of Øland, after several long days a-boating. The shemozzle at Degerø started me thinking, about what the boatingweather would be like for the next few days or so. The heatwave down in southern Europe, and the general weather synopsis charts from the UK met office showing persistent highs, indicated that the low pressures rolling in from the Atlantic would be pressed up north, meaning mostly southerly winds, increasing, here in the Baltic. That meant that if I wandered around Åland as intended, for too long, I would be battling contrary weather for the way home. So, Back to Mariehamn in the evening, some of it sailing. Lovely sight going south. Marvellous that there are souls who have the time, TLC, patience and money to keep these magnificent historical vessels alive, and usable.

Careful study of all the available weather forecasts that evening, (luckily mostly graphic, and numbers, not text), indicated a sailing wind the next day and contrary thereafter.

So, early to bed and a very early start next day, to flat calm and glorious sunshine. Wind? Not yet. Engine running all the way back down to near Rødhamn at the end of the fjord, and there, on a rocky peninsular out at sea, were windmills, rotating, and pointing in the right direction. Yess! Up sails and wait, motoring the while. The forecasts were right. The wind came, gently at first and at a right angle to our course, gradually increasing to 15 knots. Wow! What could be better?

The sun shone, and the waves built up, the wind gusting to 20 knots, so we not only rushed along, we heeled and rolled and pitched and I was glad I had made sandwiches the evening before. The 30 nm took less than four and a half hours, which must be a Josinbest!

Many other sailing boats had obviously read the forecasts, and there was a bit of a regatta feeling out there! Passengers on the ferries must have thought it was a perfect day.

Arriving at the Swedish side of the Åland Sea we had made such good progress, it was still quite early and much too early to stop, the wind even veering a bit and calming, to help the decision to continue, back through the outer skerries where the wind was even more favourable in direction. Several mugs of coffee and many snacks later we anchored up in a familiar spot, Ramsmoragba. Long sailing day, and not a little sun-drenched. Weary but very satisfied.

Woken by the sun next morning, and checking the water temperature, 20 degrees, meant I couldn’t any longer avoid an early-morning swim. A look at the hull and propeller showed not much growth, so no action needed. Breakfast with the weather forecasts showed my earlier fears were confirmed. Southerly winds, 10 to 15 knots, for days on end. So, motoring days ahead.

First from Ramsmoragba to the anchorage at Rånø, (been there before), via Dalarø to fill the diesel tank to the brim, and an ice cream. Another early morning start, a bit guilty because the anchor winch howls when it pulls the anchor out of the mud. Didn’t see any irate heads popping up though.

Then to Stugvik, to a mooring buoy luckily, not via the skerries as planned, but as there was very little wind or waves, the direct route was the obvious choice. 2000 rpm and 5,2 knots. Hours. Tedium. Read a book. Even dosed a few minutes when there wasn’t another vessel in sight.

Next day we crept out from Stugvik so as not to wake anyone, and headed for open water. Inside the skerries meant lots of navigating. But. There was more wind, yes, still on the nose, and much more choppy waves than was comfortable, so after sticking it out for a while, I steered sharp to starboard, and spent the rest of the day navigating, to anchor up in Baggehällen, this time in company with two other sailing boats, both German, and the swans.

The last few days have been hot, and I even took several cool showers on the way here today, to Sandvik, where of course it is even hotter. 31 inside, over 40 in the sun in the cockpit.

Secondary use for the anchor sail, normally rigged in the after stay to reduce wandering at anchor. First time ever I needed a sunshade!

Not keen on cooking this evening, so I hope there’s room at the restaurant, and their fish soup which was excellent last time.

Alls well, tho’ warm!