Josin’s cruise 2021 / 12

From Støtt to Vegstein

So, no gourmet dinner at Støtt, but the rain stopped during the night, and conditions were OK next morning for motorsailing on to Rødøya, (66 39.9 / 013 13.4), where we arrived early afternoon, and a hoped-for gourmet dinner at the Klokkergården there.

The famous Rødøyløve (Red Island Lion), seen unusually of his back, from the NW. The normal pic is from the S, and really does look like a reclining lion.

Checked in to the restaurant to book a table, and was told in Polish-English that it was sold out in the evening, but I could have a meal earlier. We compromised on 4 o’clock, a bit early, but the metabolism could be persuaded.

Scollops as a starter followed by Baked Sea Trout. Both delicious. Unusual dandering with mild pickled onion. Desert taken on board, with the last of the strawberries bought in Bodø, a bit mushy, but just as tasty. There are no better-tasting strawberries than those ripened under the long Norwegian summer sunshine.

Had just dozed off to humour the digestion, when I was hull-knocked awake by a boat-helper who asked if I wouldn’t mind hauling off to make room for a larger sailing boat to tie up, with Josin outside. A 55 footer, seemed very large, and I needed a ladder to climb up to its deck from Josin’s, to go ashore. I had got used to the pitching motion of Josin in the wind-driven waves driving into the harbour, but attached to a much longer boat we danced in unsynchronised motion. Disturbing. Didn’t sleep too well that night, so left very early against the southerly wind to motor the short distance to Selsøyvik, (66 34.5 / 012 58.8). Not much better there, but a couple of hours on the ear helped.

There is a well-known Salmon smokery at Selsøyvik, and the shop provided a large piece, to be enjoyed later. Set off again after lunch, motoring again into a gradually reducing southerly wind, but a current in the right direction, sailing the last hour or so to Hjertøya, (66 00.5 / 012 24.8), always one of my stops, and anchored up in company with four other sailboats. Busy! On the way we passed another strangely shaped mountain, and a sea eagle perched on the high point of a small island. An iPhone’s zoom is not really strong enough, but the long-lens camera was stowed down below and couldn’t be readied quickly enough. You must just imagine what a splendid sight it was.

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After a quiet night, the next day dawned to a partly-sunny sky and a gentle NW wind, and we experienced a challenging sail almost all the way to Vegstein (65 41.2 / 012 01.6). Sailing through the string of islands meant the water was flat, and I much enjoyed frequent fine-trimming the sails to optimise boat speed. Managed almost the same as true wind speed. Not often that is achieved.

Vegstein for several days, the first one in clement weather, but the rest in driving rain and southerly near-gales. Much worse further north. News called it the first of the autumn storms. Rather too early i reckon. What else is in store?

Alls well.