From Mallaig to Acairseid Mohr

(Sent from Stornoway, wednesday afternoon, 24 degrees, phew!)

We stayed two nights in Mallaig, firstly to dry out, and also to ensure that we could properly see the steam train arrive from Fort William. The marina master had warned us that at 12:25, 400 Japanese tourists all dressed as wizards from Hogwart, would disgorge and descend on all the coffee shops and restaurants. Well, it didn’t happen quite like that, we mostly saw hurrying people, inadequately clothed, bending against the rain, many umbrella’d, and nary a wizard, but the bit about the coffee shops and restaurant was correct. Shame for the tourists though. And we got wet again too.

There was a F&C shop in the corner of the station building, and we waited until the second, slightly drier, steam train tourist horde had left. Luckily they were not sold out, and we enjoyed yet another evening finger-meal out of the plastic.

Intended to get up early the next morning, sunday, to ensure that we got to the narrows at Kyle Rhea on the rising tide, but managed just that morning to not wake up at six. But the wind blew. Hard. From almost behind. We rushed up the Sound of Sleat and reached the narrows at the right time anyway, to be rushed through the turbulent waters on a four-knot jaccuzzi. As the wind also gusted from 25 knots to nothing and back again, it was an interesting passage, in close company with two other boats. Josin behaved beautifully, and as the sailing directions said, we were “spat out into the relative calm of Loch Alsh”. We turned east, and found a calm little bay with a substantial mooring at Totaig, opposite the tourist attraction of Donnan castle. It apparently featured in a James Bond film, which added to its magnetism. Intended to just stop for lunch and regain our breath so to speak, but setting out again, the wind, against, and waves, short and sharp, proved most uncomfortable, so we returned and spent the night there.

Monday. Less wind, more from the south west which meant sailing, and except for the bit near and under the impressive Skye Bridge, we did, a little helped by the engine at times. The gradient wind, forecast as fairly constant in both strength and direction, is affected to a large degree by the mountains and lochs, causing much variation and trimming of sails. The day was promised to be sunny, but the low clouds didn’t really clear until we arrived at the anchorage on the island of Rona. Major building works going on, so the Lodge was closed, (we had read about local sea food available there), so we dingy-ed ashore, paid our dues and went for a short walk up the hill to get a better view of the anchorage. One of the other boats from Kyle Rhea came in and anchored, and the whole crew took a dip. 13,8 degrees. They said that they enjoyed it, but with one saying he’d re-evaluated his judgement of “cold”. Whatever, the most hardy of them, with goggles, was invited to swim over and inspect Josin’s propeller. Clean. Thankyou!

High pressure has arrived, and the forecast for tomorrow is for sunshine, very light winds and temperatures over 20. So, we plan to visit the Shiant bird-islands off the coast of North Harris, then to Stornoway.