Bodø party over.

Yes, I did get the bike out at Kjerringøy, and went for a pedal. First a long climb up towards the mountains, and according to the map, lakes. No lakes, just rather wet moors, and clouds of midges. I beat a hasty retreat, easy, back down the hills, no pedalling, just much speed. Then followed the coast south for a ways. A very low tide revealed sandy patches amongst the rocks, and the sea in the disttance. Thoughts of a swim were postponed. 

Many boats collecting in the harbour, prior to the last bit south to Bodø, for the Coastal Society KYSTEN’s Gathering. We left early, so as not to mix plastic with wood, and were in time to find a berth and get organised before the flotillas arrived, one from the north from Kjerringøy, and one from the south, from Bliksvær. The latter first, headed by “Faxsen”, a splendid example of the art, and celebrating its 100th birthday.

Followed by over 100 boats, of all sizes, from “Faxsen” down to a rowing boat, and this excellent example of a “Nordlands” boat, quite genuine and antique.

The harbour was absolutely full, and much festivity followed, friendships renewed, stories told with some altitude no doubt.

These beautiful boats and many others took part in a regatta, a sunny day, but very little wind, and few finished the course within the allotted time. I followed the regatta from on board “Faxsen”, which thumped its way around on the perifery. Yes, thumped. Engine is a single cylinder, 50 HP Wichman semi-diesel, which does about 200 rpm flat out. At idle, at which we spent most of the time, it thumped about every normal heartbeat. Photography, unless you had a camera with effective anti-shake, was mostly blurred, as “Faxsen” nodded. 

Many activities: make a rope, tie knots, sew a sail, chew dreid cod, watch a boat-builder at work on a small rowing boat, watch another making oars, eat waffles, look at but not buy trinkets, avoid the fortune teller lady, ask what the Vikins stand was all about, apart from the small bonfire, watch a Sami lassoo a reindeer, (well, just the horns on a stand), eat fresh shrimp off the trawler, buy a new KYSTEN cap and pennant, chat, admire, buy succulent smoked salmon, wander, shelter from the rainshower, listen to several lectures, back to Josin for a snooze. Saturday evening the grand dinner. Three courses of seafood, starting with marinated, thinly-sliced whale meat. Different. Then more recognisable foods. Most enjoyable company, on the edge of the KYSTEN’s organisers group. Amusing speeches, lyrical songs and risque stories. Prizes for many. Noise level increased gradually and persistently until I had to seek shelter in the lounge. Got invited to go aboard one of these Nordlands boats, lots of partying people under the squaresail-made-into-an-awning, two guitars and text-knowledgeable songsters. Magic. Eventually the very cold draught drove me home to Josin, but the party carried on well into the larger small hours. 

Sunday was quiet, but enlivened by two rowing races, one for anyone, and one for the youths. Apparently traditional, over several nautical miles, and cheeringly even in the result. Then came heavy rain, and activity stopped. Poor sales-stands people in extensive puddles. Lowest part of the roadway. Weather being now inclement, it was therefore hunker down and wait until next day, today. Rain didn’t stop until lunchtime, so it was a late start, going south. Sailed for several hours, in strong winds and choppy seas on the bow. Refreshing. Wind backed, but still blew. On with engine, down sails. Uncomfortable. Shorter day’s passage than planned, to Sørfugløy, (pos: 67 03,12 / 013 46,39). Several boats with the same conclusion. Better weather forecast for tomorrow. Hope so. Goal for the next few days is southalong, back to Vega for the Open Day festivities there on friday. Last time, Josin gave joyrides. We’ll see.

All’s well