Two positives and a negativ. First the negative: Two sailing boats, one 60 feet long, the other 53 feet long, both with just two persons on board, occupying much quayside space. Do they for a moment consider that their selfish opulence hinders other smaller boats from using the same harbour privileges? Do they care?.
Then the positives: 1. Varberg Harbour Authority deserves applause and thanks for painting, in thick layers, those omnipresent tractor tyres used as fenders, normally sooty-black and contagious, in blinding white. No more sooty-black Josin. Even saw a young pair, probably summer-jobbing, with a large can of paint and large dripping-white paint rollers, looking for their next prey. All sorts of harbour furniture were gleaming. Reminds me of the message roared by the sergeant at us recruits: “If it moves, salute it, if it doesn’t, paint it”. 2. I found a sourdough bakery.
Varberg is a good spot to wait while the weather goes away. Rain last night, low overcast and a strong southerly wind today, keeping all of us trying to head south in this sheltered harbour. Plenty of restaurants and shops, an enormous bookshop, and today a market in the town square, colourful and cheap. Ice cream stalls everywhere, doing excellent trade. I am not a very popular customer, asking for only one small scoop in a small cone. Quite enough to melt and drip in competition with a fast-licking tongue. Intend to start early tomorrow. First to the diesel pump at the marina on the other side of the harbour entrance, and then south, hopefully in the forecast-favourable wind. So far experience of the reliability of wind forecasts has not been very good. Yesterday for instance was quite wrong in both strength and direction. Ah well, one cannot be right all of the time, not even weather-forecasters. Plans A, B and C are plotted in, depending on how kind the sailing wind is.
And just now returns the sunshine. Must be promising.
One has a choice, navigating this stretch of Swedish coast, called Bohuslén, either inside the islands, very beautiful, busy with boats, much chart-watching and weaving and adjusting of sails, or, outside the islands, none of the former, but very much more relaxed, usually more and steady wind and very little navigating. As we have done this stretch before, I decided to go outside, and was rewarded with two days of gentle sailing. Time slips by, and before you know it, you are nearly there. Detailed navigating again required when approaching harbour, and other activities like starting the engine, (yes, it does now, every time), taking in the sails, putting out fenders and mooring lines and paying attention. Approaching Gothenberg, we were assailed by an armada of fishing boats, all carrying a large blue flag protesting against windmills on their fishing grounds. Must have had a rally somewhere. My sympathy. But they could of given a rolling and bobbing Josin a bit more space as they surged past. I had remembered that the marina at Långedrag, (57 40.0 / 011 50.8), had those berths with two thick tree-trunk piles on the way in, onto which stern-lines have to be hooked as you are going past, at the same time as other things are demanding one’s attention. So, I had made up two more “lasso”s, with line inside a hoop of hose, and hoped for the best.
And with the aid of the boathook, dropped them neatly over the poles first time and fumble-free. Relief! The other ends of the lines were already wrapped around a winch each, at the rightly estimated length to stop the boat before the bow bumps the quay. Relief! Then with the engine just turning, one can let out just enough to inch forward until one can hop ashore with the bow-lines. Relief! I was lucky this time because there was not a crosswind or current to confuse the operation. Not so worried about the next time now.
The facilities at the Goteborg Kongelig Seil Selskap’s marina are first class, and quite reasonable really, so we stayed for a couple of days. Booked the shower and the washing machines, and apart from the problem that the code for the door lock didn’t open the door until help arrived, I, my clothes and Josin’s linen are now clean. Also a “five minute” walk takes one to the tram in to town. Three stops and a large supermarket, and a chandlery. What more could one want?. A trip in to the town center, and the vast Nordstad shopping mall, produced everything on the non-food shopping list. That was saturday, and it was very hot outside. Spent a convivial sunday afternoon with friend Andy on his Ballad sister boat, admiring his latest projects and sharing stories. He is in a neighbouring marina, not on the tram line, and I pedalled my way there and back. There were hills, oh dear, and too much taking of wrong turnings, but the exercise was worth it.
Today, its monday, we sailed, and motor-sailed, and sailed, south-along again, to a blue mooring buoy in a bay called Skallehamn, (51 21.7 / 011 59.6). Very quiet, amongst another, (much smaller), gaggle of geese. Tomorrow to Varberg. Need diesel soon. There wasn’t a pump at Långedrag. The forecast is promising for after lunch.
Happiness is a new startmotor, which when fitted, brought the engine back to life. Had a video, but WordPress will not accept it. Whatever, we are back to normal operation again, and on our way.
Monday evening was sufficiently young that we set off, keen to see the last of Strømstads Marina. Helt OK, but rather boring after so many days. We sailed, and motored, to Sør Koster, to a favourite rock, (58 51.3 / 011 02.7). Thermometer in the water, and it showed at least a degree over my minimum, so I lowered myself and enjoyed a very short float, (there were stinging jellyfish lurking). It has got to be significantly warmer before I take the usual underwater inspection! Tuesday dawned misty, and not a breath. Forecast said sailing wind later, which was correct, and we sailed to Gluppö, (58 35.0 / 011 13.0), where there were blue buoys to tie up to. Bad luck for us, they were all taken, so we anchored in a calm spot. Today, wednesday, no wind again, absolutely flat calm, with voices carrying over the water remarkably clearly. And a cuckoo! so I took it easy and slept some more. Mid day the breeze came in and we sailed all the way, over almost calm seas, to a group of islands just south of Lysekil, where more blue buoys were promised on the chart. Nearly there we passed what must be a gigantic gaggle of geese, Canada sort. Hundreds and hundreds, on a rock and floating. By the time I had found the phone camera we had sailed well past them, so no pic unfortunately. Buoys all taken again, so we found a suitable anchorage just around the corner, at (58 14.7 / 011 24.3). Another lovely evening, not a cloud and a gradually calming breeze. Dinner in the cockpit.
The new startmotor didn’t arrive on friday unfortunately, so I, conscientiously of course, get busy on the things-to-do list, those things which didn’t get done before we set sail because there were other more interesting things to do, (you know the feeling?).
The Marina office and facilities. My neighbours Party boat.
A large proportion of these CABINCRUISERS bore Norwegian ensigns. Inactive, maybe because it is too early in the season. The third pic is of an owner who started the party season even before getting the boat afloat. Friday evening was party evening for members of this marina at a long row of tables just inn front of Josin, much merryment, songs (?), and competitions, one of which was to try and throw a rubber boot between one’s legs and over one’s back and get it to land in front of you. You try it? I don’t think I will, but I can claim artificial knees. Saturday was lazy. But a walk in to town to get some exercise and do a bit of shopping. There is a river separating the marina and its environs from the town, and to avoid a very long walk to a bridge, there is a do-it-yourself ferry. I bought the necessary swipe card, swiped it, read the instructions carefully and got only a failure signal and no sign of movement. Saviour in the form of a local who came, smiled, “first time?”, mhm, and pushed all the right coloured buttons in the right order and we crept across. (I watched, and did it right on the return journey). Interesting mural. Looks as if the artist started at the bottom and got his proportions a little too large for his canvas.
Today has been boat domestics, like washing and polishing the cockpit, scrubbing the teak and generally tidying up in the cockpit lockers. The sun is powerfully hot and protection necessary by dark clothing, shady hat and lathering the exposed bits.
And tomorrow is monday, hopefully with the two o’clock delivery by post of a nice, brand new, wickedly expensive, (yeah, boat things), starter motor. This is what the old one looks like:
There’s always a first time! Today, Josin had a tow, by efficient and friendly Svenske Sjøredning, ie the Swedish rescue service. The captain sent me his pic, kind.
Why? The engine refused to start, the startmotor had given up. It had been reluctant on the morning we left Tallakshavn, but after wriggling a thick cable or two, it cooperated and we headed for Missingen, (59 10.3 / 010 42.8). Ok there, but not at Kungsvikshamn, (58 59.8 / 011 07.7). In depth diagnosis. Dud start motor. Nearest Volvo Penta dealer, Strømstad. Order new motor from Lars. “Kommer friday or monday”.
But, back a bit, The reason for Kungsvikshamn, just over the border in Sweden, was that grand daughter Hanne was busy filming for a TV series there, only a few hundred meters from the harbour, and she had invited me to come and watch if we were passing. Not quite sure what her title is, but she was organising everyone, lots of people, and everything, six cameras and several recorders, very competently and smoothly. Very impressive! Actual filming only happened part of the time. Hiccups and changing of minds and equipment issues took much more. But the sun shone and the whole crew seem to thrive under Hanne’s command. In her free time she was an incredible help for me. Drove me to suitable places to buy needed starter motor associated things, and fetched me in the evening so we could have a very enjoyable powow and meal. And drove me back to the boat afterward! This morning, after yet another forage-by-chauffeur, she returned to her duties and I waited for the wind to blow us out of the harbour. Without her incredible selfless help what could have been a catastrophy, became just a smooth process. What a girl!
Kungsvik: The filmsite is at the sandy beach which you can’t see behind the red hut. Harbour on the left of the picture.
The breeze came in from the right direction later this morning and we were able to sail very gently zigzag dingy-like avoiding boats at pontoons and out into clear water. The tow arrived when we had got about half way of the 5 N miles, and we almost surfed our way to Strømstad Marina, (58 58.6 / 011 09.8), where we docked with amusing confusion. (The tow was a sort of grown-up sea-scooter with lots of power through a waterjet, which at low speeds is not very manouverable with a four ton sailing boat tied alongside). So, here we stay and wait for a start motor. In the mean time, I get to work replacing corroded cables and connections. They appeared from the hidden depths as various things were dismantled in order to get to the start motor. Must have been an undetected saltwater leak in the past.
Quite a cruise this one so far! The sun shines luckily and it is wonderfully warm.
To quote the immortal Spike Milligan: “The sky must have holes for the rain to come in, but the holes must be small ‘cos the rain is so thin” This was the water hose which had a hole, very thin, caused by a small but steady diesel leak, which gradually dissolved the rubber.
But to catch up: We had another excellent sail in bright sunshine from Risør to Sandefjord on friday, the wind only needing help for the last half hour. Had to take avoiding action off Larvik for the (very) high-speed ferry foaming its way in to Larvik. Didn’t reckon that the general rule “Steam gives way to sail” would be appreciated. Furled the genoa and turned 180 degrees for a few minutes while it rushed past. No sign of acknowledgement. While in Sandefjord, and with the loan of kind Kari’s car, a hose emporium provided a new length of hose, and more or less useful things, necessary to carry out repairs. I also made a quick trip back home to Kongsberg to fetch several necessary things which I had forgotten. Then a lovely evening, and dinner, with Kari before she drove me back to Josin, and we pottered round to this anchorage at Tallakshavn (59 04.6 / 010 18.4), for the night.
Yesterday, well securely tied up to a buoy, a repeat of the lengthy “get access” process was needed before the hose could be replaced, and everything restored back to normal. Long time job. Now, no leaks, but the pervading diesel perfume remains. The source(s) will be hunted down.
Plan now is to sail, when the wind appears later, to Missingen, on the other, east, side of the Oslofjord, for the night. Then, with the forecast NW wind, south to the Swedish coast. Hope to meet grand daughter Hanne, near Strømstad, where she is filming for a TV show, for an evening. That will be great, to catch up on all her business.
When the wind blows the wrong way, have another cuppa, and wait. When the wind blows the right way, you sail! These are not pics of a sunset, they are of early dawn. 01:30 and 02:00 to be precise, on the way from Stavern (58 59.9 / 010 02.5) to Finnøy, Risør, (58 44.0 / 009 13.6). See all the little lights? Somewhere amongst them all are navigation lights. Best to keep out to sea, where one doesn’t need them. Actually nav lights are quite intense, and are, more often than not, flashing in a definite sequence, (on the chart, in a code that one has forgotten, but is in a sticker on the bulkhead), so they can be identified. Binoculars help enormously. Then there are of course the main lighthouses, with unmistakeable flashes, seen at great distances. This year I have decided that the engine will be used as little as is sensible, hence the waiting.
We set off from Stavern in early afternoon, after the Skagerak rollers had died down a bit, and we had a humpity sail in a direct line to Risør. Forecasts are sometimes wrong, this time with prediction of sea currents. Should have been with, but Neptune would otherwise. Progress was slightly slowed as a result. When far from the shore, and especially late in the day, there are only a few commercial vessels on their way, as the leisure craft have all tied up somewhere. Very relaxing. With plenty of previously-prepared coffee, teawater, sandwiches, chocolate, nuts, raisons and other goodies, I suffered no pain. The entrance to Risør from the north is via a very narrow gap in the islands and rocks, but the half-moon shone brightly dead ahead and navigating was easy, almost like day. Relaxed and slept some extra times next day.
Again the wind changed from contra to hopeful, and we set off after an evening meal and sailed to Lillesand. This time I headed out to sea to find the SW-going current which “is always there”, but it wasn’t. Again against. Neptune did not answer my complaints. Got to Lillesand guest harbour (58 14.9 / 008 22.8) at 03:30. Soon after midnight the wind had gradually died away so we had to motor the last couple of hours, with a gradually increasing diesel-perfume. Oh dear. Inspection later showed a good liter of the smelly stuff in the cradle under the engine together with a little water. Scoop up and bottle. Write diagnostic task on the to-do list.
Lillesand is a charming, mostly white-painted small town, with a large and popular guest harbour, necessary and less-necessary shops, and several restaurants and a pub. But I didn’t investigate, but, equipped with freshly-baked sticky buns, visited old Ballad owner and good friend Svein Tangen, physically somewhat reduced, but always good value. His partner Hilda had also bought sticky buns, so we gorged.
Back on Josin, a forecast of favourable winds competed with finding the diesel leak, and the forecast, confirmed by diverse flags, turned out to be correct, and won. Off again, this time back up the coast. I had planned as an alternative, to sail direct over to Denmark, Hirtshals, if conditions were favourable, but they were not. This time we sailed close inshore, to avoid the current, but here it was, strong on the nose. Never mind, the wind was direct off shore (no waves) and plenty of it, so we made exceptional progress at high speed back to Finnøy. Fantastic sail. Today the wind is light and unfavourable in direction, so we stay put and enjoy the sunshine. But later. First, much removal of hoods and dismantling of panels, and emptying of cockpit lockers, to get to things. Mystery. No leaky fuel pipes or hoses. The culprit was the fuel secondary filter. Eversoslightly loose. Tighten. Job done. But, the drips had fallen on a waterhose, which didn’t tolerate diesel and had developed an aneurism. Tape-wrap, string-wrap, epoxy, more tape-wrap. Tested later and leak-free. Wonder how long that will hold. Find hose emporium soon. And I have enjoyed the sunshine.
The summer of 2023 has officially started, from Sandefjord, Friday 26th May. Kari and Gilbert waved me goodbye.
But before that, Josin and I departed home harbour, Åsgårdstrand, on thursday afternoon and sailed, yes actually sailed! (nice way to start the cruise), the short distance to Tønsberg under the evening-opening bridges to the guest harbour for the night.
Next morning, bright sunshine and a favourable wind, Kari and Gilbert came aboard and we sailed to Sandefjord, Gil helming expertly in a very gusty wind, to the anchorage at Tallakshavn, for lunch.
We had a little snooze afterwards, to bide our time for the forecast wind-change from northerly to southerly, so that we could sail the rest of the way in to Sandefjord. But, the forecast was wrong, and the northerly remained, so we had to motor the rest for the way. Lovely day in the warm sunshine though. It being friday evening, when the sound level in the guest harbour has a tendency to remain loud until late, we retired to Sandefjord Seilforeningen’s Seilerholmen for the night. Quiet there. Just as I was about to eat my evening meal, there was a knock on the hull, and I was invited over to another sailing boat for a beer. Hans-Morten had seen Josin’s windpilot, and reckoned that I must have tales to tell. Well, I hope that he and Eve enjoyed the evening as much as I did. We all had tales to tell, tho they had been to the Carribian and back.
Saturday dawned calm, and remained so until the southwester came in. By then we had motored most of the short distance to Stavern, but we sailed the remainder. Monitored by a naval vessel lurking in the offing, maybe because there was a very large aircraft carrier somewhere. I suspected that local radio signals were being monitored, or worse, as the MarineTraffic app stopped working. Interesting! GPS still functioning.
Spent a convivial evening with friends Sven and Titten Rønne, with later increasing anxiety, in step with the rapidly increasing wind. (Their house is perched, with a fantastic view). Back at the pontoon, the wind had blown the rollers in from the Skagerak and the pontoon was writhing and heaving and Josin was rolling and tugging at its mooring ropes. (Took a video, but WordPress wouldn’t allow it here). More stretchy ropes. More fenders.
Very uncomfortable night. Now bright sunshine and a gentle breeze, but the rollers haven’t died down yet. Forecast predicts favourable winds later today. If true, then Risør next stop.
Left Långedrag rather later than intended, and motored west through the shipping lanes and other busy traffic, to the north/south channel, and continued motoring until the wind started to be sailable, from the south. Left the channel and headed north west and out to sea in the hope of finding more wind. Well, there was, but only enough to fill the genaker and let it drag us along at about 4 knots. Then surprise! We were doing nearly 6 knots over ground. 2 knots of north-going current, nice! Which lasted until we headed inshore towards goal for the day, and met very choppy seas, causing much rolling and hopping and which disturbed the sail so much that it wouldn’t retain shape. Strange effects these currents have.
On the way past Marstrand, the near horizon was covered in small white triangles, which gradually turned out to be a regatta for Lazer dingies. Must have been over a hundred of them, very well spread out. The leader well ahead, and vocally encouraged over the finishing line by folk milling around in small boats. Must had been a local sailor.
A short stop at Ingergerdsholmen, (57 59.06N 011 31.73E) where I had hoped to find an unoccupied blue buoy. No luck. Anchor held well enough for a relaxed afternoon pause, but wouldn’t hold well enough in the sea grass for a night, so we retired to a pontoon in the guest harbour at Skärhamn, (57 59.30N 011 32.76E), just round the corner. Yet another variant on the tie-up theme here. A stout rope, one end attached to the pontoon, the other end fixed to a heavy something under water at right angles to the pontoon. Without help, this is nearly impossible for a solo sailor, as you have to go nose in, right in to the pontoon without bumping the bowsprit, fish up the dangling rope with the boathook, reach back along the very slimy rope until tension is felt, belay it, then rush up forward again to try and attach bow ropes, the while apologising for bumping the neighbours. Luckily, two stout helpers from the neighbouring boats prevented Josin attacking them, (cross wind), and after much adjusting of ropes, I could finally relax, profusely thankful for help, and a bit puffed.
Next morning, friend and Ballad owner Stefan Robertson fetched me to his “cottage”, (apartment in Gothenburg), for coffee, a sticky bun and a long chat, on the terrace:
The swimming pool is heated by many solar panels, but right now, in this strong sunshine, a bit much! Back to Josin via the bakery for a still-warm sourdough loaf. Yummy lunch.
After the post-prandial, we motored the short distance, initially in the narrow, 5 knots-restricted channel, and out to the well-protected bay at Slubbersholm, (58 03.84N 011 26.99E) where we anchored in solid sand. Very popular place, with sandy beaches enjoyed by many families in small run-abouts. These all disappeared in the evening, leaving the cruisers to enjoy the sunset:
During the evening, this “mermaid” came slowly paddelling past, singing to her heart’s content in time with the gentle paddling: (Sorry about the poor pic quality). Exotic!
Away early the next morning, (sorry about the screaming anchor winch), in brilliant sunshine and a promising gentle southwesterly breeze, and out to sea again. There is a perfectly good protected route inside the islands, but it needs navigating and difficult to genaker-sail. At sea the genaker held full and we caught the north-going current again, and we gobbled up the miles, to Dannemark/Ulöen, (58 30.81N 011 15.86E), another well-protected popular family-place, and enough space for boats to anchor. Good holding where we were. Another relaxed evening in the sun.
Awakened next morning by the increasing light, and took this just before the sun rose over the inland hills. Promising yet another sunny day.
It was only a quarter to seven when we up-anchored, (again sorry about the screaming anchor winch), and enjoyed another genaker sail and helping current the 25 nm to the Koster Islands, to my favourite spot at Lille Tällskär, (58 51.27N 011 02.79E). My very favourite spot was again occupied, so we tied to the rock in spot 2. Enjoyed an afternoon and evening in the sun, cooling off at intervals in 22 degree clear water, (not quite sure of the thermometer’s accuracy), but it felt soothing, not shocking. (Watch for jellyfish first!). Underwater inspection of the log didn’t reveal why it sometimes doesn’t register. It has stubbornly refused to be removed from inside the boat. Another task on the list after the haulout.
Tomorrow is monday, and much rain promised for the evening, so we will take a short trip in to Strømstad for provisions, water and fuel, and come back again to this safe and comfortable place.
after lunch (monday) as the weather cleared and left a gentle breeze which carried us the 20 nm over an almost calm sea to Skallahamn (57 21.7N 011 59.6E) as planned. The SXK blue buoys were taken, so we anchored in quite clear water, clear enough to be able to see the bottom and avoid the sea grass, which the anchor only harvests and provides no holding
Next morning I took it easy after a poor night’s sleep, (dunno why), and after a leisurely breakfast, was entertained by a seal:
very close to the boat, poking his nose vertically out of the water and snuffling a few times before sliding bak under water. I thought to don the snorkel mask and try and see him from underwater, but decided against it as the water temp was only 17 degrees. The afternoon breeze filled the genaker nicely and we were wafted the 19 nm to Långedrag, (57 40.0N 011 50.8E):
another enormous marina, (with a few difficult-to-find guest slots), the home of Gothenberg’s Kongelig Seil Selskap, on the southwesterly outskirts of Gothenberg, paying attention over the last few miles to the countless ferries and other boats rushing to and fro in the restricted channel.
GKSS has a very active sailing milieu, with much activity most evenings during the week, and at weekends. There was a regatta for Lazer dingies when I arrived. This marina is the only one with guest spots in the area, except for “Lille Bommen” in the town centre, v expensive.
Next morning, did a large clothes wash, again after a discussion as to whose turn it was, (not mine it turned out, the harbourmaster had logged me in for next week by mistake, oops!), then a trip on the tram, just 10 mins walk from the boat. (Two tram routes, both going all the way into G’borg centre, ca half an hour). Busy with my nose in my phone trying to buy a ticket, I overshot the intended stop, scrambled out at the next and had a leisurely wait to retrace my steps. Boat-things shop, large, but without what I needed, then supermarket next door, and tram back.
A very pleasant evening with Ballad-owner Andy Christiansson and family, for dinner in the GKSS clubhouse restaurant, fish soup, yum. Then an inspection of each other’s boats, very different interiors, for family and solo. Lena was very interested in all the drawers I have made to fill in vacant spaces. Very much better that diverse plastic bags, stuffed in there earlier. Maybe a winter task for Andy?
I’m trying to write this while genaker-sailing very slowly, a bit out to sea where signal is very weak, and I keep on losing what I have written. Frustrating. So I’ll stop here and try again later.
Josin's 2025 cruise 