Stugvik, evening

Pleasant sail from Torrø, only 12 nm, but the sun shone, most of the time, and matresses on deck did not get splashed. Tied up to a SXK buoy, one of four, with the place to myself initially. Later three more boats arrived, one large with a dissappearing couple on board, one small, with solo sailor, and one middling, with father and four girls on board. Obviously a well-sailed family. They have been very active, even a dip, (13,5 degrees) before dinner, and a canoe race afterward. Quite the entertainment.

 The evening sun, though not warming, is shining well, and with the wind now almost nothing, all the sounds of nature are carrying over the water. A cuckoo, loudly very close by, unseeable even with binoculars, suddenly decided to fly over to the other side of the bay. Seldom birdwatching experience. Then a flock of canada geese, majestically slow-swimming past and quietly chuckling between themselvs, with three ducks in attendance. They disturbed the heron in the shallows, who didn’t appreciate his dinner-potential dissappearing. Small fish are rising and all is very peaceful. 

Time to bring the matresses, and myself, in, it is getting chilly.

Alls well, from SailorJohn

Torrö, 58 00.81 / 016 47.82

Gentle sail to here yesterday, east-facing bay, populated by herons, swans, cormorants and of course, gulls. The heron were very territorially strict, squaking and flapping to chase rival fishermen away from their places. Swans supercilious.

This morning, cloudy sky clearing, 10 degrees in the water, 11 degrees outside and 12,5 degrees inside. Turn on heater and burrow back under the eiderdown and wait a while.

After breakfast, now a good deal warmer outside in the bright sunshine and very little wind, I decided to give Josin a good hose down. Valve open, pump switched on and working, pulled trigger in the nozzle and only a drizzle. Odd. Very odd. Downstairs to check, and oh dear, a loose hose connection was leaking squirtingly onto everything in the forcastle. Ah well, it is a vey good drying day for wet matresses, spare bedding and towels etc.  Josin now festooned. Take an early lunch!

Next goal, later today, will be Stugvik, pos 58 07.00 / 016 49.00, where the local SXK division is having its Midsummer gathering on friday. Due to excellent sailing progress, I`ll be a bit early, but hopefully tomorrow will be another drying day. Rain forecast thursday, and not too bright for Friday, but there is always a chance that the forecasters are pessimistic. 

All’s well.

Another sheltered bay. 

East facing horseshoe on the east side of Kårø. Pos: 57 54.18 / 016 47.06. Trees all round, encouraging the W wind to blow over the top. Secure at anchor. 

After provisioning and fuelling and watering at Vestervik, we pressed on northish and found a secluded bay, just right to stay and wait for the weather to go grey and wet and dull. Spent the evening trying to get the anchor lantern at the top of the mast to work. Needed when one is at anchor. But it resisted all attempts, even putting volts into the cable directly at the bottom of the mast had no effect. Bother!  Well, we are travelling north, the nights are getting shorter, and lighter, so maybe the lantern can be done without. I’ll just look innocent, if asked. 

 Skies cleared up at lunchtime today, so onward north, not very far, in a westely wind which just let us sail, following the main route between islands and rocks. The routes are all very well marked with cairns, stakes and lights, that one can almost do without charts. Easy to follow anyway. 

After a short snooze her, and a cuppa, a Danish boat came puttering in to share the anchorage, and shortly afterward, a Swede, almost a Ballad, came sailing in, drifted into position, downed sails and dropped anchor. No use of engine.  All very profft, and an example to copy. Maybe next time!

This anchorage is just off the main route, so I can sit snugly in the cockpit and watch the boats go by, if there were any. Remarkably quiet, but I suppose that holiday time hasn’t started yet.

All’s well, from SailorJohn

Kråkelund  57 26,94 / 016 43,33

6 am. Woken by a heron squawking loudly as it winged its way slowly past to its fishing place. Blue sky, bright sun. Gorgeous dawn.  Temp in the water, 10,5. (definitely no!). Temp inside, 14,5, on with the heater. Cuppa. 

Sailing and sea conditions yesterday gradually improved, and up went the Gennaker! Whooppee! Splendid sail rest of the way to an SXK blue buoy in a snug bay behind the lighthouse. Very safe. 

As usual, the process of getting the gennaker down and safely stowed in its bag and getting all the long ropes untangled and coiled, took time and much sea room. Has to be started well in advance of getting where one is going to and has to be done downwind. Method, method, method. 

Plan for the day is to follow the well-marked route through the many rocks and islands to Vestervik, last significant town for a while, to stock up on food, before wandering futher northward. Now in an area of many small bits of Sweden poking up through the water. Picturesque. Route well marked. Concentrate. Next planned event is to celebrate Sweden’s Midsummer, on friday next, in (SXK’s) the cruising club’s place in Stugvik, where I was several years ago, and enjoyed. Plenty of days to get the short distance there. 

Water temperature still only 10,5, so, breakfast without swim. 

All’s well, from SailorJohn. 

Sandvik to Kråkelund

Bengt was away, so there was little point in staying the extra day, so now we ar on our sailing way northward. Lovely breeze on the Østbd quarter, another reason for not staying in Sandvik, nice place that it is.

As half-way planned, the fish restaurant on the quaysside provided a delicious fish soup yesterday evening. Recommended!  Long chat with Leif den lykkelige and his wife Pia, neighbour boat from Denmark, who had started from Kalmar after lunch yesterday, and had a fast sail in the afternoon wind. I obvoiusly started too early, as that wind only reached us just before we got in. Never mind.

Boat -fixing yesterday concentrated on radio equipment. AIS was blank. Simple solution. Aerial cable had come unplugged! Bingo! VHF needed operability from the cockpit, so the hand-held was installed there. Rational. 

The wind angle and strength is just about right to use the Gennaker sail, but the waves are at that angle and strength to make us roll like a doll, so venturing onto the foredeck to hoist sail is postponed. Hopefully as we get nearer the mainland, the waves will calm, and we can maybe try again. 

Sunshine is intense, but I’m all covered up, to protect the pinkness from yesterday. Shame!

All’s well. 

SailorJohn

Kalmar to Sandvik

Sandvik is on the northeast side of the long thin island of Øland, east of mainland Sweden.Sandvik’s position is 57  04,4 / 016 51,2. 

Early this morning, the weather, bright and sunny, and the forecast for 10 to 15 kt of wind from the west, promised a splendid sailing day. Again, the wind gods ignored the forecast, this time deciding they couldn’t be bothered to blow. Right now we have 2 kt on the nose (we are heading north), so the engine is doing its thing. 

Lots of markers hereabouts, as the Swedish royal family have their summer residence here, Borgholm. Last time past here a patrol boat paid a visit to have a chat. Very friendly, attracted by the Norwegian flag, he said. Must have been a boring day! 

Sandvik has active fishing boats, a lively sale of fish and a good restaurant. Fish for dinner tonight, folks!  Must ring up my friend, Bengt Erlingsson, the one with the camel farm nearby, and invite him over. 

Sun’s hot. No cooling breeze. Shorts! Again! Maybe this IS summer!

All’s well

  

Kalmar again

Forgot to say. After the frustratingly slow progress to Falkenberg, we have now been very fortunate with wind and weather and sailed (almost exclusively) nearly 300 nm in 6 days, which is way above average. Sometimes you get lucky!

SailorJohn

Kalmar

We passed Utklippan at teatime, sailing well, so we continued to Sandhamn, 56 05,64/015 51,48 for the night. Few guest boats, several German, one French. Welcoming harbourmaster recommended the pizza place, ” only just over a km down the road and here is a bicycle you can borrow”, but no thanks, not today. (Suspicious about that km, seem to remember last time it was much further).  Forecast for tuesday was promising, but wind, NNE, which would be on the nose, until about 10, veering E and strengthening, so, take it easy tomorrow morning. 

Which I did. At 10, we left, but the wind was still closer to NE. So, motored into it, hoping the change in direction would happen soon. Two hours later. Change course to NNE and hoist sails. Close hauled, in the desired direction, and good speed. Yet again, alone on the wide sea. Main boating season obviously hasn’t started yet.

The wind gradually strengthened and veered. Good. Later veered some more and weakened. Not so good. Later still, only a waft from the south. Bad. So, engine on again, and for the rest of the way to Kalmar. Lovely clear skies and sunshine, and it was surprisingly warm when the wind didn’t blow, and layer after layer of wintery clothing could be discarded, down to shorts level. First of the season! Even feeling a little sunned in the face this evening.

The shopping center just by the harbour shut just as I got there at 7, so supper was taken at McD’s, right at the entrance. Predictable, but OK for a hungry sailor.

Two nights here. Good chance to do a clothes wash and re-stock the fridge etc. Still things to do on the list!

All’s well, from SailorJohn

Christiansø to Utklippan

Yesterday’s sail from Ystad to Christiansø was a scorcher, in 25 knots wind on the starboard quarter. We rushed and rolled at max speed all the way. Very few boats in the harbour which was blissfully calm after all those waves. First choice of tie-up spot was unpopular with the eiderduck nesting in the truck-tire fender, so we moved along to the next one. Tummy said it was time for food, so I rolled to the restaurant to see if it was open. It was, just. Waitress was kind and persuaded the chef to turn on the cooker again. Anything thankyou. Steak OK? Yes!  Bit tough, but very nourishing. Retired to Josin, replete and restored. Watched the gulls wind-soaring the long building, and avoiding each other with skill.

Early to bed for an early start this morning. 6 am. Bother, the toilet pump wouldn’t. Corrosion in the fuse. Bypassed. Temporary fix. Continue morning, though delayed.

Lovely sunny day again, slightly less wave activity, less wind too, only 15 kt, still in the same WSW direction, pushing Josin along to the NNE very nicely indeed. Maybe with such progress, ETA Utklippan 16:30,  (clever these modern instruments), the alternative harbour, Sandhamn, 10 nm further on, will be a better goal, we’ll see.

All’s well