A relatively gentle start to the dag, waiting for the wind. It came, and we had a splendid sail in 10 to 15 knots wind for a while, until it gradually wouldn’t keep us going. Engine on. A visit to Lysøysund on the way, to find, and fill up with, diesel. At last!
Arrived in Stokksund in the early evening sunshine to find a deserted guest pontoon, and also deserted facilities. A very quiet harbour, well protected from all directions. In previous visits, full av motorboats.
A careful study of the weather forecast for the next few days gave cause for thought. Tomorrow OK. next few days, not so OK, with much rain and strong winds. So, where to go and hide? The choice was Rørvik, a long way at 60 nm, but with other, less suitable places on the way if things deteriorated.
So alarm for 5 and away hurriedly at 6, suitably clothed in everything warm, and stocked with sandwiches, hardboiled eggs, chocolate and fruit, and full thermoses.
A nearly full tank allowed more motor rpm than normal, and in calm weather and calm seas, we rushed along at 6 knots, all alone in the wide fjords, with very little navigating needed. Autopilot. Book. Radio. VHF forecast. Whats this? Wind? Activity. Sailing for a good half hour, and then back to motoring boredom. Well, at least it was a change! The forecast rain appeared, on schedule, for the last hour. Fairly thin rain it was but remarkably chilly. Almost 10 hours to the minute, and into the rather full, but inactive harbour, at Rørvik. Three other sailboats, one, newly purchased, on passage from Harstad to Drammen, one anonymous, and one rather green-covered and sad. Otherwise motorboats. Lots of them. A pic of only a small portion of the harbour:
Yesterday a domestics day, with shopping between the showers,(opplettsbyger, takk Kari), and dinner at the Italian restaurant. Delicious smakfull pasta, but much too much. Slow walk home, past the museum, where a small portion of Rørvik’s large population of very noisy kittiwakes, (krykkje) had made nesting places:
Today, chilly still, with just as much wind, but only small amounts of rain, means another harbour day. Maybe I can find that very small water leak under the toilet? Forecast looks better for tomorrow. Hope so!
At the end of a relaxed day yesterday, the sun shone and the breeze died away, and suddenly it was shorts time and sunsoaking in the cockpit. Didn’t last long unfortunately, but a nice foretaste of what might come later.
Today, sunday, I woke very late, (must have needed it!), but didn’t hurry. Goal for the day was Djupfest, not so far, but a good starting point for the next stretch. Dagens disappointment: No diesel! Must have been too many large and thirsty cabin cruisers ahead of me in the queue.
So, check can. Full, 10 liters. Enough. ‘Cos today we sailed! Whooppee! først a bit of motoring, back to where we came from, to round the “Toe” of Ørland, and just as we got there, the wind came in, 10 to 15 knots, and sails were hoisted and rolled out in a hurry. Close hauled we tacked up the fairway, avoiding the nasties, until the wind died to 7 knots and veered to direct ahead. Anyway, here is the track for today.
Josins track 24 may
Other boats were somewhere else, probably on their way back to Trondheim after the long weekend, so navigating was much simplified.
Djupfest is a very small harbour, and no defined guest places. Luckily someone appeared. “Yes, he’s away, you can stay there until tomorrow”.
Forecast is for rain early. so no hurry up. Goal is Stokksund, where we have been several times before. Remember the “rømmegraut” Margie?
We left Ålesund on wednesday in glorious sunshine and a gentle breeze on the nose. Engine on of course. a clean hull and a polished propeller make good speed, nearer 6 than 5 knots. Bodes well. Compass needs re-calibrating, the instruments show Josin is heading about 30 degrees to where we are actually going.
Snow the last few days show the mountains in all their glory.
And then sometimes strange shapes appear which you don’t see otherwise: Is this a sleeping dog, with enormous paws? Or is it a turtle?
Strange shapes. Dog? Turtle?Contrasts!
Then, after hours of pottling along, the only sight of interest being the early stages of a long bridge being built, on three artificial islands, over to Lepsøy. Odd to see a road-going crane perched on the rockfill. Admiring the view along the way we got to Bud, 62 54.3 / 006 54.4, a normal place to stop before traversing Hustavika, which can be rough, due it being open to the North Sea.
Not today though, thursday, it was flat calm, in exceptional visibility, so navigating the first intricate bit, was a doddle. Goal was Kristiansund, but conditions were benign, speed was good, helped at times by a following current, and it seemed too early to stop, så Plan B. Straumen, på Smøla. 68 19.8 / 008 04.7. 45 nm for the day. Good progress.
Friday, yesterday, had it all. A reasonably early start, again in flat calm conditions and glorious sunshine, was initiated by a heron slowly and majestically flapping past to land at his fishing spot. We approached, very gently, and rewarded to see him spear a fish and flap back to his nest. Then a bit further on, an eagle demonstrated how to catch a fish his way. Wow. Seen pictures before, by not for real. He was hounded all the way back to his nest by bombarding gulls, who tried to relieve him of his catch, but they didn’t succeed.
On and on up the Trondheimsleia, a wide, very long fjord with little to admire. Windmills undecided. There was indication of a coming of wind. YR.no had forecast such, but got it rather wrong. A fickle breeze which came and went in many directions, to the frustration of this sailor, until we gave up and motored again. Then the weather started to change. Wind, yes, but not really sailable, until conditions began to gradually deteriorate. Cloud cover getting thicker, sailable wind, at last, and temperature falling. (Unusual, from 1024 mBar at day start to 1009 mBar at day end). Full sail and a reasonable speed. Over the next hours, wind increased from the south, (we were headed ENE, so, good) current turned against, kicking up short sharp waves, and the occasional rain shower. Sail gradually reduced until with rolled-in foresail and two reefs in the main, and we still sped through the water. Max windspeed i saw on the instrument was 38 knots, more than twice what was forecast. Exciting! My otherwise highly dependable autopilot, whom I call Rorbert, (ror means tiller in Norwegian), couldn’t quite cope with the effect of sudden waves, steering in a succession of not-quite-stable zigzags, so I had to steer. Kept me busy. But we got a bit wet and somewhat cold. (Who forgot to lock down the front hatch before starting off? It leaked!). The last two hours were very frustrating, with no less than two to two-and-a-half knots of current against, making progress very slow. Finally reached Brekstad, (63 41.2 / 009 40.3), and the protection from the worst of the waves inside the harbour wall. Wind still over 30 knots, and a bit of a pantomime ensued, trying to keep the boat reasonably out of harms way while getting the very reluctant rest of the mainsail down. (The halyard had somehow inviegled its way into the sailtrack). A fishing boat skipper waited patiently on the pontoon to grab my lines, and made suitable (local dialect, indecipherable in the wind) comments afterwards, with a broad grin on his face. Wind was blowing off-pontoon, so his help was invaluable.
Took some time to get properly tied up, with many ropes and fenders, sail stowed, and kettle on. That cuppa tea was nectar! Sleep later was difficult as the dancing, corkscrewing motion and tugging of moorings, were not easy to shut out of the consciousness.
All calm again this morning. Late breakfast and a wander into town for an unobtainable kitchen thing. But, there was a bakery open doing good trade, and I succumbed to a very sticky bun and a coffee. Back to boat and sleep som more!
In Brekstad harbour.
It transpired that a narrow front had gone through, not forecast by YR.no, but reasonably visible on The Met Office’s synoptic charts which I looked at afterwards. Moral: Check all sources of weather information! They might even agree.
YR.no says nice day tomorrow, with winds slowing down mid morning, and in a sailable direction. Let us hope it checks!
This year started differently. instead of spending the first month of the cruise plodding around the coast, Josin was transported on this equipage to Roald, near Ålesund last week. It has taken me a few days to get rigged again and otherwise sorted, but the plan is to sail away tomorrow, 20th May, after buying a fresh sourdough loaf. Weather has been rediculously cold, with snow and hail storms. Woke one morning with several cm of wet snow on the deck. Forecast is for much warmer weather now, praise be, but the winter woolies will still be needed. Goal for the summer is to get further north than we have been before, but, no stress, weather and form will decide. Alls well. SailorJohn
Waited in Tallakshavn for the rain to stop at mid day, and then set off at about one o’clock. Decided to choose the outside route to Åsgårdstrand, as there was a better chance of enjoying the predicted wind. Good choice! Close hauled until through the bits needing careful navigation, then easing the sheets past the inside of Færder island, and then downwind for home. Wind increased, as predicted, to between 20 and 25 knots, and we rushed along in cloudless sunshine, enjoying life on the ocean wave to the full. Only the odd ferry or so, otherwise the fjord was mine until we got to Slagentangen and the vessels waiting for the refinery.
Berthed at 17:30 after what must be a record-speed trip in perfect weather. What an end to a summer cruise!
Josin back in home berth.
Started the summer cruise on the 2nd June, with Margaret aboard, until she travelled home from Bergen on 4th July. Our goal was Shetland, but the weather was definitely not suitable for passage over the North Sea, so we chickened out and flew, and had a splendid three days there, in remarkably fine weather. Lucky us! That period was otherwise unfortunately characterised by chilly and wet weather, so Norway was not at its best for her. Then solo further north to The Coastal Society’s gathering in Trondheim in July, when the weather at last turned summer’ly, explored a bit of the Trondheimsfjord area, then gradually homeward again, through mostly familiar places. Getting so used to the route that I almost don’t need navigation aids.
Wonderful to have Kari aboard from Kristiansand to Sandefjord. Excellent crew, (who didn’t do all the washing-up), and most enjoyable company.
Much motoring, as seems normal now, with the occasional sailing wind in a usable direction. Altogether 1 500 nautical miles and 88 days. The only “disaster” was a dying toilet system, which fortunately only happened in the last few days, otherwise only minor bothers. A pretty problem-free time. Approved!
Looking forward to local sailing and the occasional tuesday’s regatta.
Kari joined in Kristiansand, and has since written so many good posts in her facebook site that she has taken on the role of author. But…. it is all in Norwegian, so for those of you who need a little bit of language help, google translate should do the trick. But first the posts. Click on the sentence below, and there is a link sign to further click on. Did that work? Yes? OK good. Enjoy! And if it didn’t? Bother. Did any pictures appear?
We are now in Stavern Havn, waiting for the rain to move somewhere else, and, if YR.no is right, a suitable weather gap will appear after lunch so that we can potter round to Sandefjord where Kari will disembark. Poor lass, she hasn’t experienced any sailing at all, but she seems to have enjoyed life on the water.
Yes, tuesday’s winds were good, both in direction and strength. We rocked and dipped and rolled along, with 15 to 20 kts wind on the quarter, and a strong following current, which was fun for a while, but the movement got a bit boring. The seas couldn’t make up their minds as to which way to run, so there was conflict, but Josin took it all with aplomb. Not a good day for those with a gentle tum. Luckily I’m unaffected. Sailing directions recommend keeping close to the shore when going south east, to avoid the north west-going current. We experienced the exact opposite, fortunately, so the course set was directly to Lista.
Plan A was to utilise the favourable conditions for as far as possible, round Lindesnes too, but as the seas were still uncomfortable and rather tiring even after having rounded Lista, we scuttled into the shelter of the islands and tied up to a jetty in a favourite bay on Skarvøy, east of Farsund. Remarkably sheltered spot, where I enjoyed the evening sunshine before an early night.
This sunny morning invited to a quick dip in the clear water, thermometer showed 15, brrr, but one does feel much rejuvenated afterward, doesn’t one? Sailing conditions were about the same as yesterday, somewhat less wind, but same seas, so keeping the sails filled in spite of the boat’s motion meant tacking downwind, rather to the surprise of two other sailing boats, both of whom had decided to motor. Easier! We all ended up i Mandal, me last!
Mandal has, right by the end of the guest quay, an absolutely fantastic sea food shop. Extensive variety of both raw and prepared produce all delicately presented. Steady steam of customers. So, crab claw and shrimp for starters and flounder to follow. Yum! Stappa!
Weather forecast for tomorrow is not at all clement, so up with the cockpit tent, on with the cabin heater, brew countless cuppas and read a book. Hopefully onward on friday.
Sad news of the funeral of a near neighbour on friday, so parked Josin in the guest harbour in Egersund and took the train home to Kongsberg.
As the weather forecast for rounding Lista and Lindesnes in the next few days is definitely not good, and that there is another event at which I ought to attend in Skyttertunet on sunday evening, I have decided to stay and travel back to Egersund on monday. Forcast for tuesday is good, so I hope it holds.
Today had it all. Early start for a 50 nm long day. Bright early morning sun. Calm waters and a gentle breeze for the first hour. Gathering clouds and rain and lots of wind-in-the-right-direction. Heavier rain clearing, leaving the wind but choppy seas. Max boat speed with sails driving us through the waves. Wind vane steering coupled in and coping with the demanding conditions. Clouds receding over Stavanger, leaving us in bright sunshine. (Can you see the helicopter?)
Clouds receding over land
Sea current between one ond one and a half knots almost all the way, giving a remarkable, and maybe record, speed over ground. What a day!
Winds looked promising, so the goal was Haugesund, but although the wind was pushing us along nicely, it started to rain, and continued. Wind and rain aft, no hiding place! Although my splendid wet weather gear is remarkably waterproof, I didn’t have winter woolies on, so got gradually colder. Then visibilty got much worse, which made things more exciting. Whatever, Mosterhamn looked inviting on the chart plotter, so we turned sharp to starboard rounding the headland, and re-visited Mosterhamn. Haven’t been there for some years, and was happy to find a short pontoon with just space for Josin on one side. Cabin heater on full blast and warmth returned. Rain continued, still so no exploring. Read a book. Cook and eat supper. Study weather forecast for tomorrow, promising winds again, but without the rain. Sleep.
Tried to get an early start this morning, but somehow the waking-up process didn’t cooperate. Never mind, with good winds we will sail far. At first, no wind. Motor. Then a little wind, so sail out and helping. Then no wind again. Then a heavy rain shower, not part of the plan, which suddenly brought 20 kts wind on the quarter. Wheeee! Seas got up pretty quickly though, and the rest of the way to Haugesund was uncomfortable, and coffe-spilling.
We rushed through Haugesund, with a strong following current too, past many tied-up and inactive supply boats and oil rigs. Depressing sight. Well south of Haugesund the clouds began to clear and the last couple of hours were near-perfect. Keeping close to the shore meant we had all the wind pushing us along, without the waves. Quiet in Skudeneshamn, only one sailboat, German. Later on a French, very advanced sailboat came in. Family of four, two very enthusiastic boys, 8 and 10 maybe, who peppered me with machingun rapid questions and information. Maman had to translate. Embarrassing!
Forecast for tomorrow is usable, after which strong southerlies and rain, so the goal is Egersund, which is a nice place to hide for a day or two.
Josin's 2026 blog 