While superstorm Hans has caused havoc and suffering elsewhere in mid Norway, back home in Kongsberg, where I had scuttled to avoid it, winds were balmy and rain not much more than a drizzle. Josin, with its extra mooring ropes in home harbour Åsgårdstrand, had apparently not experienced anything unusual either, so this second sailing-pause was a bit of an anticlimax, thankfully. Anyway, the pause has meant that almost all the problems had been sorted out, and we can now continue the cruise with the reassurance that everything works again. The car has shuttled to and fro between boat and workshop, quite contrary to my original intention of not using it at all during the summer, but is now being looked after by Gilbert. Much more convenient for me than leaving it at home and taking bus/train back to Åsgårdstrand. So yesterday, thursday 10 august, all was ready in the early evening, and with a light and almost-favourable breeze, we set off again, and motor-sailed south the short distance to a quiet anchorage in the Bolærne islands, (59 13.0 / 010 32.4). No, not everything is working as it should. Bother! Repairs to the anchor-roller have resulted in a slight clearance conflict, and the anchor needs a sharp kick to encourage it to deploy. (Note to self: At least one thick-soled shoe). Later this morning we shall sail gently NW to Tønsberg guest harbour, and spend an afternoon with Kari and Gilbert, before setting off on the rest of the summer cruise, to points south-west in general down the Norwegian coast, and see where wind and weather take us.
After a very enjoyable and extended lunch with Robert and Agnete, we left Skärhavn in mid afternoon and sailed northward the short distance to the fine anchorage at Slubbersholm, (58 03.8 / 011 27.0) and anchored amongst several boats in 8 meters of water, (rather more than I prefer) with good holding and just enough swinging space. A gusty, windy night gradually turned into a splendid sailing day next day with 15 to 20 knots of wind from the WSW, and we were going north. Seas were moderate, rather surprisingly, so conditions were at last suitable for steering by the wind vane. Experimenting with settings finally resulted in a steady course and both Josin and I smiled! Confidence in the wind vane much improved. 33 nautical miles and five and a half hours to Gluppö, (54 34.8 / 011 13.0), a large natural harbour, and very popular. Again found an anchoring spot with enough swinging space. Looking at the chart, this harbour should be sheltered from this wind direction, but reality was rather different. A good case for the anchor-sail, a double triangle hung in the back-stay as a weathervane, and after a bit of a struggle to set it up, reduced the weather-cocking to and fro, which is otherwise normal for sailboats with a rolled-up foresail which catches the wind. One other sailboat had an anchor sail, a very large, bright orange one. Just to confuse me while this settling-in process was at its busiest, the phone rang, insistingly. Whadderuknow! Ivar, another Ballad sailor from Åsgårdstrand, warmly welcomed us and offered a tie-up alongside him if my anchor didn’t hold. He wasn’t in his own boat, but was crewing his daughter and family in something rather larger, and tied up to the side of a large rock. I decided not to take up his offer, as things seemed to be safely under control. I puttered over next morning on my way out, and it was good to meet up with him in foreign parts.
The wind had died almost completely during the night, so departure was delayed with another cuppa or two while waiting for the predicted wind to fill in. It never did really, and trying to sail with little wind in yesterday’s seas proved frustrating, with sails thrashing back and forth, even with help for the engine, so after a while the genoa was rolled in and the main sheeted in mid-ships to reduce the rolling, we motored for the rest of the day all the way to home port. Plan A had been to stop over at my favourite spot on South Koster island but the forecast for the next day was for again little wind, so I decided to motor past. A rather boring ten hours, lightened by reading and listening to the radio. Back securely tied up in Josin’s home berth, a knocking on the hull just as I was preparing a late meal and there was Otto and Inger Book to welcome us back. Excellent.
Recently Josin had developed several problems which had encouraged me to go for home port instead of continuing the cruise. None of which were serious but the sum was a bit restricting, particularly with the anchor-roller in the baug. My home workshop has much better fixing facilities than on board. So, back to Kongsberg on busses, arriving just at the end of a normal tuesday lunch in the group. Another welcome! But my lunch had to wait until I had been to buy some food.
What with one thing and another, it has taken several days to get things organised and fixed, so here we are on saturday evening, all ready to sail away again. But…. Monday and tuesday are predicted to be extremely wet and windy, so I think we will have a gentle potter-sail in the fjord here tomorrow, and then lock down the hatches until more favourable sailing conditions, hopefully wednesday afternoon, then off again, points south and west.
Strange summer this. Cruising in fits and starts. Maybe smoother later.
Långedrag is the home of Gothenberg’s Royal Sailing Club, (GKSS) with very active competitive sailors in a variety of boats, from international (therefore the pic), racing 33 footers to the latest, Waszp, a very slender hull with wide ears for riding out on, and two foils, one on the bottom of the centerboard and one on the bottom of the rudder. The hull is really to hold everything together and the mast up, while the “boat” flies on the foils. Very critical balancing the forces, and much speed and quite a bit of bathing. Must be exhilarating for the hyper-agile. A trip into the city on wednesday on the excellent tram service, (stop only five minutes walk from the marina), in a successful search for proper tea and tangy cheese, both found in the Bazar while sheltering from a sudden rain shower. Then books. Then coffee and a sticky bun. Then a return trip on the tram, with a stop to buy sourdough bread. Another cross on the map.
Thursday morning a front rushed through, blowing and raining, followed by a gradually calming, slightly chilly breeze and sunshine. I had been hoping this would happen and was prepared, and we set off in the late afternoon, going west for motor through the traffic lanes and amid large numbers of other motor and sailing boats released from captivity, then north for sail, the short distance to an anchorage in a bay at Björkö. (57 44.7 / 011 41.8), amongst nine other boats of various nationalities. While in Långedrag, I had struggled with repairing the anchor roller system which had shed a roller and its bolt, and had come to a temporary solution, and was therefore anxious to see if it worked. Well enough it transpired. Relief! Good enough for the rest of the season. (Needs welding, equipment not carried on board). Friday morning dawned sunny, misty and dewy, 11 degrees chilly, and absolutely flat calm. Morning dip in 16,5 C, including a quick attempted inspection of the prop and keel, frustrated by the rather murky water. Waited a bit after breakfast in the hope of wind, but when it came, it was less than 5 knots, so it was motoring again, with a little help from the sails towards the end, to Skärhamn (57 59.3 / 011 32.8), where we were met, unexpectedly, by a red-shirted harbour-hostess in a rubber dingy and directed to a berth where another red-shirted harbour-hostess waved us welcome and helped Josin tie up. What a fantastic service! There are very few, if any, other harbours with the same that I know of. Well worth the fee! Almost within rope-throwing distance was the “Best ice cream parlour on the Coast”, second pic above, so I had to try. Third pic above is of one third of the counters of every variety of ice cream and sorbet you can imagine. Long queue partly because of difficult decision-making by the customers. Excellent sorbet, in a cone, sort of choclatey, nutty flavour, rather drippy in the sunshine. Ballad friend Robert came on board later for an enjoyable chat and a beer. He had been out sailing his sailing canoe, not his Ballad, and the lack of wind and contrary currents had delayed him. Never mind. (Note: Buy more beer). Lunch with Robert tomorrow and a late afternoon sail (suitable wind predicted), to the next anchorage only an hour or so away.
Non-boating things have intervened, but there is sailing to report, albeit belatedly.
The wind blew over Gilleleje for two days, so I explored. Fantastic, very new bibliotek/cinema/gallery was well worth a visit. I got my hair cut. Bought two books in a newly-opened bookshop, (only one in Gilleleje). Had fishy lunches. Bought boat-things. Snoozed. Read one book. Sunday evening the forecasts looked promising, with west- to south-westerly good sailing winds predicted for most of the day, and north-westerly gales afterward. So, take my chances and up and at it very early, and we got away at 06:35. Sailed over lumpy seas at an exhilarating speed all the way to Falkenberg, (56 53.6 / 012 29.5), where the boat harbour is quite a way up the river, and well sheltered. Falkenberg is strategic placed on a stretch of coast with few harbours and is therefore a welcome stopping place, and the major extension to the tie-up facilities prior to this season is evidence. What with one thing and another, I decided to take a quick trip home while the gales blew, and bussed and trained to Kongsberg and back. Travelling on the top floor of a double-decker coach is an excellent way of enjoying the countryside. Although the double-decker rocked a bit in the gale in exposed stretches near the sea. A weather window between strong winds enabled us to proceed north on sunday, and a long day motorsailing in very variable winds brought us to Långedrag, (57 40.1 / 011 50.9), SW of Gothenberg, where we will stay for yet another wait for the winds to abate. A very large number of sailing boats in this marina, and the aeolean harp of masts and rigging in the wind means that earplugs are necessary for sleeping. Off now for a bit of shopping, (large boat-things emporium and a supermarket just three tram-stops away), and a visit to a Ballad friend in the marina a twenty minute bike ride away.
Left Marstal in the afternoon after the weather had subsided a bit and speedily sailed the few miles to Rudkjøbing, (54 56.5 / 010 42.6), to make sure of diesel. Decided to stay the night as the wind had increased again. Next morning, into the center and the large supermarket, back via the fish shop and two nice plaice, then diesel, then away north again. Yes, the tides had changed of course ,and we again had strong currents against. The weather was still unstable and impressive, and in places, very wet, but we were spared luckily. Nice sailing conditions though and we made good progress.
Approaching this impressive bridge again, a loud voice on the VHF radio requested contact. The traffic controller could see us on his screens approaching a large tanker and wanted us to change course to the west end of the bridge, outside the main channel, which was a little occupied by the tanker, but i requested that I should continue my plan to cross the channel after the tanker and use the east end of the bridge. Quite OK. Thankyou. Good voyage. A bit of a surprise being called up. I knew that receiving was working, the VHF is on all the time and it is sometimes interesting to hear what’s going on but you can’t see, and good to know that transmit works still. (Tested only at the beginning of the season).
And so back to Reersø (55 31.1 / 011 07.3), but this time into the harbour rather that anchoring up in the bay outside, as the wind was forecast to increase, and from an unsuitable angle. Between the rain showers i toddled over the harbour masters office, (small wooden shed), to pay harbour dues into the letter box provided. Problem. Wrong cash notes. The Danish pay-by-phone app, to which foreigners do not have access, was the alternative. Next door, a helpful lady in the hot-dog stall, who in exchange for buying a hotdog, we managed to achieve the correct notes to pay the fee. Tasty hot-dog, consumed under the awning waiting for the rain shower to stop.
Next day, a splendid sail to Sejersø, but not into the harbour on the south side, but round the north end to a quiet anchorage recommended by the cruising guide. It was. (55 54.5 / 011 07.4). One other boat there for a swim and a rest, which left. I had intended to have a dip too, for inspection and exercise, but was disappointed to see so many stinging jellyfish. No way! Forecasts agreed that a weather change was coming tomorrow morning, but it happened much earlier at 2 AM. Rain and wind from the SE which whipped up a chop and stared Josin nodding and tugging the anchor free. Busy for a while there until re-anchored in a more sheltered spot, with many meters of chain out. Anchor held. A little more, but fitful sleep. Up anchor very early and away north in enough wind in the stern to only need half the genoa out. Through the gap in the Sjælland reef, called The Carpenter’s Gap, (!), then south east towards Odden harbour. Beating to windward in a gale was a very wet experience, and after a couple of bouncing hours I’m afraid I rolled in the sail and motored the last half hour. Very quiet in Odden harbour by contrast, (55 58.4 / 011 22.1), but enough wind to make the preparations for mooring rather difficult, and I managed to lose a fender. Thought I saw in which direction it floated, but couldn’t find it afterwards.
Yesterday, with the wind in the right direction, we were blasted along at max boatspeed to Gilleleje, (back again), average speed over 6 knots, which is very unusual. Again only half the genoa out:
This is max holiday time in this boating world and Gilleleje harbour was over-full of sheltering boats. Obviously very few had left. Ended up in my usual corner, but tied up three-a-breast. Helpful Danes taking lines and relaying them ashore, and all just in time to shut the hatches before a deluge. Today, again showers-and-bright-periods, so soon off to shop, and maybe a fishy lunch, this being a very busy fishing port.
Its raining now, wednesday morning, quite heavily, and forecast says it will continue until about 12, so we wait. My first impression of Marstal, on sunday evening, had been rather a disappointment, looking rather down-at-heel and scruffy, but I had only been in the area near the water, which was mainly industrial. Monday was a wanderday, into the rest of the town, which was much more attractive, in typical old-fashioned Danish style. Narrow, cobbled streets with the buildings right close, bright colours, no traffic of course and slow tempo. The sun was shining too.
Yesterday was the day I was going to “do” Marstal. Maritime museum. Lunch at a suitable cafe/restaurant. Motor museum. Wander the quayside look at interesting boats, etc, etc, etc. Started well by timing it right. Small group of quiet people and an engaged and knowledgable guide. First room. First impression, hot. Second impression, guide’s language was only Danish. Third impression, difficult dialect for this English/Norwegian to understand. Fourth…. After the third room, I realised that I understood even less than I thought I could and used up more energy in straining to catch an undersandable word or two than was sensible, so I wandered off on my own, following the red arrows on the floor from room to room, which were in a roughly historical order. Fascinating to see the development in sailing ship design, from square-rigged barges, to fleet and slender schooners. The development in sail configuration over time was a study in itself. The models were works of art as well as being authentic and worth hours of study. (Unfortunately I kept on being caught up by the guided tour). Historical building with many small rooms, and no ventilation meant that everyone was perspiring after a while and looking for somewhere to sit down. Then the place was invaded by a school class, (seemed like several), of ca 8 year-olds, rushing hither and yon, exclamatory in their enthusiasm, and their teacher/followers quite unable to shush them for more than a second or two. Brain went into aggravated/irritated/defence/close mode, so I left, with an invitation from the kind lady behind the counter to come back later, after all the organised visitor groups had been there. Nice of her, but by that time I had run out of energy. The visit was worth it. One thing is for sure, that the sailors of those impressive vessels must have had incredible competence and stamina.
Next was lunch, restaurant sussed out the day before. A seafood platter tasted good and left only lemon rind. Then the bill. Shock! Whattt??? Added to the reasonable price of the dish was DKK 36,- for a bottle of tapwater, (no fizz, ice or lemon). That translates to NOK 57, or nearly GBP 5. I waved the plastic and stared hard at the waiter, but it didn’t help. Left quite disgruntled. So, back to the boat for a bit of relax and recuperate. Then to the motor museum. Always of interest for this motor-man. Knowledgeable guy there, spoke english, who I think was an earlier employee at this works and had done much to salvage the wreckage of the closure. Tourist day ended on a good note, thanks be!
Didn’t take any more pics yesterday, sorry.
Plan A next is Rudkjøping, less than 10 nm going back north, where I hope to find accessible diesel. (The diesel quay here is too high for me to climb). Then onward generally north as the wind is predicted mainly between south and west, and see where we get to.
Maybe the rain has finished for the day. Alls well, PatientJohn
At last the wind loosened its grip on all us sailors, and as a small armada, left Ebeltoft behind. We even had a hint of a regatta between those going the same way. Whatever, it was a grand sailing day, almost all the way to Reersø (55 31.2 / 011 07.6). Mostly close hauled and the autopilot steering by the wind direction. Tried the wind vane, but it couldn’t quite cope with the narrow sailing angle. Gradually there was less wind, and when we had to avoid all the traffic in the main shipping lanes, the engine had to help a bit, then a lot. We anchored up in the bay outside the harbour at Reersø, when we tried entering the rather small harbour and saw two boats milling around trying to find a slot. Calm evening and night in the company of the cormorants busily diving and fishing, and one fishing boat tending its nets. Didn’t see much fish being hauled out though.
Next morning, blue sky, strong sunshine, absolutely flat calm water and not a breath. So, a reasonably early start and a day’s motoring all the way to Lohals, (55 08.0 / 010 54.1). On the way there, there is a very impressive bridge, at (55 20,7 / 010 02.9), which connects the two main Danish islands of Sjælland and Fyn. Even in the second picture the cars seem almost invisibly small.
But, serious navigation attention was needed as the current in the channel under the main span was at times over three knots, against of course. It would appear that have timed this south-going trip all wrong. Every day the Baltic is emptying, according to my appreciation of the tide rhythm, by creating a north-going current in these channels, out into the Skagerak and into the North Sea. You can rely on assuming that when the time comes to sail north again, the tide rhythm will have changed too. To try and avoid the strongest current, I steered first east after going under the bridge, in a long curve, but very little respite from the current as it was so shallow. The current must change the contours of the sea bed by moving sand around, and the chart didn’t show the depth I was measuring. Bit nail-biting actually. Lohals provided some unintended entertainment in the form of me trying to buy fish and chips at the fish-and-hamburger stall with Norwegian cash, as the slightly bewildered, but very helpful lady only accepted Danish cash or the local form of telephone money, to which foreigners do not have access. We agreed in the end, after more or less helpful comments of others in the queue in various languages about exchange rates, and with the final help of a young teenager using the calculator on her telephone. I have a suspicion that I paid well for my fish-and-chips, but they tasted good.
The day dawned in Lohals with sunshine and a nice easterly breeze, with the promised forecast of it continuing throughout the day. Prepared the gennaker and all it ropes, to the keen interest of the neighbour who had not seen such before. Set off gently motoring through the sandbanks into more open water and hoisted the billowing sail. Exileration! Water was nearly flat calm, as we were sailing close to a long island to the east, so sailing was just fine.
Until we neared the next bridge, at Rudkjøping. Narrow channel again between markers, leaning heavily against the very strong current and meeting traffic including this magnificent Dutch Jakt. Busy for a while there, when the genakker was reluctant to be rolled in.
A long channel south of Rudkjøping into more open water and normal sailing in a gradually dying wind to Marstal, ( 54 51.1 / 01031.1), where we found a comfortable slot near the town center.
A wander into the town later and a rather sad sight of a museum sailing ship being shorn of its yards and mast damaged in the storm the other day. (I got there too late to see the whole process). The bits viewable on the ground showed that they were considerably “worn out”, by weather and years.
I rained quite heavily last night but today is a good sightseeing day, particularly the maritime museum, which is one of the cruise goals. Alls well
The weather is still anti-boating, and particularly anti-sailing. Whether it is blowing or raining or both, boats only rock, but don’t leave the harbour. There is a strong possibility that the rain will have gone and the wind will have dropped to a reasonable level later on this afternoon. We shall see. I’m keen to be on our way. Not much to alleviate the boredom. I know where the supermarket is, how long it takes up the hill it takes to get there, and ditto back-pack-loaded back down again. How long it takes to get to the touristy bit all along cobbled streets. There there are ice cream parlours in abundance, fewer cafes and restaurants, cheap merchandise on movable displays, (necessary in this weather), museums full of people hiding from the weather, and, and, and, and…
A blogg of complaining is not interesting for readers, so instead here are a few pictures taken when it wasn’t raining. Ebeltoft is certainly picturesque. Hope you enjoy them.
NO images. Here is a problem. Including an image takes an age, several images and it crashes. Think I’ll publish this and hope a cure emerges. Meanwhile I shall search for a solution.
Has been a very breezy experience to now. Expected, but rather more hefty than wanted. Yesterday was blown away. Steady 30 knot wind gusting to nearly 40, was enough to keep me firmly on Josin, doing some nail-biting. A new experience of in-harbour conditions. With every fender out and all mooring ropes at least doubled, I just had to wait, and react to a new situation if it occurred. Luckily it didn’t. Only damage was one punctured fender and the line on the crosstrees with all it’s pretty pennants broke, leaving them to flutter horizontally. Hope I’ll be able to retrieve them in the next calm if they survive.
But, first morning we were here I went exploring in the local area to find out where things were, and ended up, rather confused, outside a café, Cafe Moeslund, just about to open, with proprietor in the doorway chatting to a friend. P realises that I’m lost and asks if I need help. Yes please, where do I find a bakery? A flood of very helpful directions in quite incomprehensible Danish sounds left us both confused, but when she asked me if i needed a coffee, that I understood, so we went in.
And with the coffee, cherries!! Not the very red sort in the shops, but these, the same that grew on a tree in the garden of my childhood home, Mill Orchard. They are not sweet, rather tart in fact, but they suited my taste then and they do so now too! Reckon it was me and the starlings who ate them. P, (I didn’t get her name), said that they had a tree, loaded, and used the fruit as decoration. Not being mealtime I didn’t stop for a meal, and plodded up the hill on bakery-hunt. Past the church, (aren’t they always on a hill?), the cemetery and another slope to an enormous supermarket, “Kvickly”. But, true to info from P, there was a bakery just inside the door with an enormous array of irresistible bread, yes, including sourdough. Yum.
Then today, a very showers-and-sunny-periods day, on the way back from a bit of sightseeing and shower-dodging, I dodged into Cafe Moeslund. Ah, lunchtime. Again a warm welcome from P, cafe very busy but with a very comfortable contented-eaters sound. Limited menu, very difficult to decide. This is what came, in order:
First a very decorative glass of water and more cherries! Then a basket of sourdough bread and a tantalising tastedip. The a bowl, with the most incredible-tasting marinated salmon and diverse salad veg. Very memorable and quite the best I’ve tasted. Savoured every mouthful. Poured compliments over the chef, who understood better my english rather than my norwegian, and who tried to mumble that he was lucky. Ha! That was culinary skill man!
Lunch coincided with a prolonged and heavy shower, which just stopped so that I could stagger back dry-shod to Josin. Long zizz. After that lunch, dinner tonight will be simpler, of fresh sourdough bread and smelly danish cheese. Oh the suffering……
Don’t think any boats left harbour today, so it will be interesting to see what tomorrow will bring of winds and weather. I’m planning to head south, when the wind drops.
Josin's 2026 blog 