Author: josinjohn

Busta House Hotel near Brae dated from the 16th century. Typical Shetland construction with walls several feet thick. Ancient, with squeaky floorboards under deep carpets. Sumptuous lounge with large fireplace at the end including glowing-coals fire. (No, not peat). Mature service. Excellent restaurant and dinner together with Hans, now let out of hospital and in fine form.

Before enjoying the hotel we explored northwest, to Eschernes, its lighthouse, Stephensen’s last, built square, not round, because it saved money.

and rugged cliffs, swirling with fulmars. Where there is grass there are sheep. Everywhere, nibbling away all day.

Strange rock formations formed aeons ago. In the foreground, a freshwater loch (lake), of which there are thousands, of all sizes, but we only saw running water once, in a little waterfall. The rain, plenty, gets absorbed into peatbogs.

More exploring found a crofthouse, a relatively large one and recently in use. Barn and byre behind.

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Then a gentle drive south again, through rolling open hills, all the way back down to Sumbrough, out to Shetland’s southern tip and the lighthouse, (well almost there, as we were running out of time).

From the Busta House hotel near Brae back to Strusshamn and Josin took all day. Delays at the airport due to technical problems with our scheduled aircraft. We sat in the departure lounge with the ‘plane just outside the window, and waited. And waited. And watched as all the luggage was removed. Bad sign that. Alternative ‘plane, smaller, rather well-used, and noisier. But it got us safely back to Flesland.

Bybanen to the bus station. Wait for bus to Askøy. Wait for bus to Strusshamn. Chinese restaurant closed for holiday, so minimal food shopping and the walk back to Josin, patiently awaiting us.

Alls well.

Flight in a Saab 2000 turboprop, one hour, direct from Flesland til Sumburgh, nearly off the end of Shetland in the south. Quite uneventful, and good visibility for the final few minutes. Rapid passport check and effective hirecar company meant the minimum of time and fuss before we were heading North on a very good road in quite extraordinary scenery. Rolling heather-covered hills stretching as far as the eye could see, with grazing green on the lower slopes, dotted with sheep. Many sheep. Some of the stones turned out to be sheep too. After all, one of Shetland’s main sources of income is knitwear and they are very proud and informative that the wool comes from their own sheep.

Found our way in Lerwick eventually, after several false starts in a labyrinth of narrow, one-way roads, to our hotel, Queens, right on the waterfront and no parking. More meandering until a slot appeared. Warmly welcomed by Sean, genuine Shetlander, who fed us with too much information all in one go. Stairs. Queens is really three buildings of respectable age, before lifts. 42 steps. Room overlooking the Sound, with a replica Viking ship bobbing at a buoy right ahead. Very good view of the fog next morning.

But it cleared later, the sun came out, and everyone seemed pleased. First stop the Tourist office. First customers for very helpful Susan. Maps. Brochures. Information. Also found the well-hidden mobile number of sailor friend Hans, whom we had planned to meet, but had gone mysteriously silent. He was in hospital with an infection, and very frustrated at not being able to start his sailing season. Long chat later that afternoon.

Shetland museum next, and truly tasteful and informative displays of the islands’ geology and more recent history. Retired, head ringing with images and information, to the cafe next door in the new culture centre for coffee.

After a mediocre fish-and-chips lunch and visit to Hans, we explored by car, northwards. Main road. Secondary roads. One-track roads with passing places. Through hamlets and farms. Dead ends. Found the first W2 HQ of the Shetland Bus, at Lunna, overlooking a very old church still in use, and an idyllic harbour bay. Byroads back towards Lerwick, slowly. Hungry. Not a restaurant was sunday-open. Back to the hotel dining room too late, after 20:30, but M charmed the waiter to get the chef to stay long enough to prepare us steaks. More than enough, so doggy-bagged til lunch next day.

This morning, monday, dawned foggy again, with forecast clearing later. Correct. Opened the shops, me buying a shirt and M a gorgeous Fairisle-pattern cardigan and a tam-o-shanter. Then off to Scalloway, not far, on the other side of the peninsular, to the quite extraordinary Scalloway museum there. Full story of the Shetland Bus. Fascinating.

Then more exploring, this time southward on the Barra (?) islands. Back via Tingwall, site of the Viking’s Ting, to Lerwick. A better fish-and-chips meal before visiting Controller John in the Port Control centre, to hand over a message and an envelope from Norma. Much appreciated. Staccato and disjointed chat competing with ships traffic on the VHF. He was very busy!

Tomorrow we explore much further north, still on the Mainland so as not to utilise ferries. Hotel in Brae. Hopefully to give Hans dinner if he is allowed out. The back south again tomorrow morning to catch the lunch-time flight back to Bergen and Josin.

Alls well!

Most important:

Re-united with my specs! All extra reading glasses now pensioned off.

We shopped a little. Sat in the sun with a coffee and a sticky bun. Wandered the Fish Quay. Not so fishy any more.

M wished to see Greig’s place at Troldhaugen, so we asked at the tourist office how to get there. Bybanen. Get off at Hop, and walk from there. So we did, and were a bit wobbly-weary in the legs on arrival, nearly an hour later, having negotiated many incorrect wiggly roads and hills on the way. NB. There is a bus. We took it, back to town later. A well-earned restorative cuppa before a tour of the garden, M colour-coded,

and house, and museum. 1001 photos. Helpful guides. Spooky atmosphere. Video session of Grieg’s most popular music to the backdrop of fabulous Norwegian scenery. Both impressed, M bought a copy to take home and wow the friends.

Walked back to the bus-stop and travelled in the rain back to Josin. End of day.

Shetland tomorrow. Alls well.

Woke up to low overcast, light drizzle and no wind. Forecast clearing later, with southerly breeze. So, a lazy morning and late start. But the promised clearance was late too and it was still miserable motoring. Just as we reached Korsfjorden, about half way, the wind came in, gently, still under low overcast, so out with the genoa and stop the engine. Wafted along over an almost glassy sea, until disturbed by hurrying ferries and the surface wind. The current was with us up Raunefjorden, so progress was good. At the junction with the renowned Vatlestraumen, the current was more powerful and very turbulent, enough to swirl Josin off course by 30 degrees and back again. Most exciting, but quite safe. Less turbulence, but with us, up to the Sotra bridge and then motor the short rest of the way to Strusshamn. Familiar. No visiting boats. Notices everywhere to boil your water. (Trouble in the water supply on the Askøy island). No worries, plenty of water in Josin’s tanks.

Another grey day today, but dry, and soon a bus ride into Bergen. Message yesterday that my specs had arrived there. Whooppee! They have been snail-mailing hopping their way around and up the coast, only now in front of us, and we are at last about to be re- united. Also some shopping, at least for decent tea and coffee, and a look-around, and maybe, if it clears, a trip up Fløybanen.

Fly to Shetland tomorrow afternoon, and we will be staying in the Queens Hotel, at least for the first two nights. Lets hope for a bit of summer weather!

Alls well, from Margaret and SailorJohn

We decided we had deserved a meal out after our strenuous trip from Egersund, and from strong recommendations from a local, sampled the fish soup at the nearby Hotel Hummeren, just at the end of the harbour. One somnolent small lobster in the glass tank in the entry hall was not too promising but the soup was worth waiting for. Just what we needed. Back to the boat and crash.

Monday morning and a beautiful day, light breeze and cottonwool clouds, and a blackbird singing its heart out in the enormous tree almost overhanging the quay. Took a gentle walk up to the Pilot House, but no-one at home, so wandered along the quay out to where the two pilot boats were tied up. Luck was with us. The same crew as yesterday. Pictures requested and transferred. “Thanks”. “No problem”. (See previous blog).

South west wind, 10-12 kts, what more could we ask for to waft us the short distance to Skudeneshavn. Motored through the labyrinth of Kvitsøy just for fun, took in the sails just at Skudenes’ sheltered harbour entrance, and puttered in past picturesque buildings to the inner harbour, where all was peace and quiet in the holiday sunshine. Few boats. Few people. Town square’s benches sparsely utilised. We wandered all along the serpentine narrow street of the old town out to the “look at the view” bench. We viewed. We returned. Not even the ice cream parlour was open. Back to boat and chill out.

Tuesday morning, more sunshine! But, a northerly wind almost on the nose up the Karmøy Sound did not encourage close-hauled sailing. Another sailboat tried it and gave up after an hour or so. Much, pay attention, ships traffic in to Haugesund. Quayside not very fender-friendly, and dauntingly high above Josin’s deck level to get ashore. Dinner was one of the succulent passage stews which M had made, and now needed non-passage eating.

Lots of placards and other ads for SildaJazz, much enjoyed in an earlier year, unfortunately at the beginning of august. Much of my kind of jazz. Hmm.

Relatively early start from Haugesund, in light rain and no wind, motoring again, all the way to Bekkjarvik, a nice sailing wind over the last fjord if we hadn’t been going north. Passed by the enormous charter Motor Yacht, “Aster”. Very posh and gleaming. Blocked the entry to the inner harbour temporarily while settling. The passengers probably attracted to Bekkjarvik Hotel to the restaurant of a Beaucouse d’Or-winning chef. We ate huge hamburgers next door, attended by scruffy sparrows.

A film crew busily active, now trying to capture the efforts of a sartorially attired, but incompetent crew rowing a six-oars rowing boat. But nobody fell in. I’m sure I recognised the guy trying to steer in the stern.

Strusshamn near Bergen tomorrow. Alls Well.

Margaret and SailorJohn

Just a ps with the pics the pilot boat took. Wheeeeee!

SailorJohn

We left Egersund as planned, all optimistic, into what were predicted OK conditions: SW wind 15 knots, overcast and rain showers, clearing later. Yes. But, unfortunately, the weather gods and Yr.no didn’t quite agree. Wind SW, yes, but much more than 15 kts, up to 30 kts by the end. So, we didn’t achieve Skudeneshavn, but retired, rather subdued and weary, into Tananger, wet and a bit battered. Sailed all the way on just genoa, rolled some in later, and rushed along at hull speed, surfing down the waves. Autopilot coping well. On the way in, a Pilot Boat on the way home rushed up alongside, slowed down and filmed us bouncing and wallowing and frothing along. Must try and get a copy. They are moored just along the quay.

Today is a lovely calm, sunny day, and we are tidying up and drying out, and planning.

Looking at various weather predictions in the North Sea, they are changing for the worse, with much stronger winds, and earlier, and as we do not want another, much longer passage like yesterday, we have chickened out, (Margaret’s phrase, bless her, and justified), and have put in place Plan B.

Shetland was our goal, and we will get there, by air instead of sea, and have booked on Loganair from Bergen on saturday. So far nothing else arranged.

More later. Alls well.

Margaret and SailorJohn.

The start was delayed, due to…… Haven’t we heard that before?

Margaret arrived on schedule on the 24th May, and after a family party we were supposed to leave shortly after, Josin in top fettle, except……

My super specs fell apart. Helpful neighbour delivered them after we had left, (weekend) to Interoptik in Kongsberg. Who reported gleefully later that they had found a replacement frame and would send them to their shop in Stavanger.

Upgrading the software on the Raymarine equipment and instruments, like a good little boy, left the autopilot non-functioning. Yes I had read the instructions, and didn’t have any problems last year with the same procedure, so what to do? All expert contacts were busy with the Skagen Regatta preparations, and the next day, a thursday, was Ascension Day, so nobody worked that, or friday or saturday. Next working day, the monday, we were tied up at 8 am at the nearest source of expertise, Serco, and with a promise of immediate attention. It happened! Three men, one expert, one under instruction, and me of course, spent two hours before almost everything worked again, including the vital autopilot. Waved the plastic and with heartfelt thanks, proceeded on our way.

It rained. Motored southward with the wind on our nose, then through Vrengen, with the sails up for ten minutes until Margaret’s Josin cap blew off in a gust, and we doubled back and found it. Then out into the Tønsberg Fjord to short, sharp waves and wind against, the engine purring away nicely. To Sandefjord. Wet. New points of leakage had appeared, luckily not over bedding. (To the initiated: No, leaks still dribble down the mast!).

Tuesday we successfully cured the leaks under the genoa sheet runners with copious Sikaflex, and then went shopping for sailorboots for Margaret, and a replacement fender for Josin, before dressing up and enjoying an absolutely delicious meal at Brygge 11, baked steinbit plus,plus.

Up betimes wednesday and away down the coast, all the way to Lillesand, 81 nm, mostly on engine. Long day, to try and make up some lost time, arriving in the gloaming with nav-lights ablaze. Awoke next morning to brilliant sunshine, but it didn’t last long before the thunderclouds rolled up and doused us running between shops, before diving into a cafe for a coffee and a sustaining sticky bun.

Re-fuelled next morning, and away for another motoring day, to Farsund, only 65 nm, again arriving late. Consumed hot peasoup and slept.

Friday dawned bright and sunny, with a sail-able wind, no less, and we motored out into the north-west-flowing current past Lista. To Egersund. Wonderful to sail again, close hauled all the way until the wind veered instead of backed, and a bit of help from the engine the last half hour.  Nice welcome from the harbourmaster who took our ropes but struggled a bit with his spiel in english.

YR.no is usually a very reliable weather forecasting site, but so far this trip it hasn’t been quite so good regarding wind direction and strength.

New poggle: Rang Interoptik in Stavanger this morning, saturday, to hear that Norges Post had not managed to deliver. What now? Sunday tomorrow, then Whitmonday. Possibly specs on tuesday. Weather window for crossing the North Sea opening monday, closing thursday. Solution: Let Interoptik keep specs until we get back at the end of the month, and buy several pairs of cheapo reading glasses.

Plan A. Leave Egersund early tomorrow, Josin refuelled, clothes washed and stores re-provisioned, with a predicted following wind and current to Skudeneshavn, which is our startingpoint for North Sea crossing on monday. 200 nm to Lerwick, Shetland. Probably take about 36 hours. Little wind to begin with, northeasterlies later. Perfect. Margaret has made a very large pot of succulent beef and vegetable stew, and we bought sliced bread and other sustaining foods easily dealt with and consumed.

Alls well with Margaret and SailorJohn

From here on my blog will contain posts from this year’s (2019) cruise. I hope you enjoy them.

To those readers who prefer Norwegian, here is a link to copy the text into Google Translate:

https://translate.google.no/translate?sl=auto&tl=no&u=https%3A%2F%2Fjosinjohn.com%2F

SailorJohn

In the philosophical mood this morning, having allowed the relaxed, “done it”, feeling to sink in:

So what have we learned?

The first question people ask is how did the solo North Sea crossing go. I say excellently. There are two “different” issues, (to use a word from the current vernacular), to otherwise solo sailing: 1. food and drink, and 2. sleep.

Food is dealt with by having made enough sandwiches before departure, having tour-dinners which only need pouring hot water into the bag, diverse biscuits, nuts and raisins, chocolate, fruit and energy-snacks. Enough to drink in bottles, thermoses and an electric kettle, instant soups, tea and coffee.

Sleep is learnable. The decider is enough and frequent short sleeps, starting long before one feels tired. My solution started by “learning” meditation many years ago. That 25 minute “timeout” developed into an ability to sleep for about the same period. Reliable wakeup alarms, in case the 25 minutes got stretched. They did. After three days and two nights from Lossiemouth in Scotland to Egersund in Norway, I felt a bit rough at the edges, partially having been in the same clothes for that long, but definitely not sleepy-stupid in any way.

Josin has performed admirably. A very sturdy and solid boat, taking everything in her stride. Reliable equipment. Having no worries in that area means a very great deal. An autopilot which works all the time and in all control circumstances. Enough battery capacity, (two LiFePo 100 aH managed everything). A few niggles remain, about ropes competing for the same space and too many ends without a parking place, and some mystery leaks which WILL be solved before next season. A few mods planned, primarily the cockpit canopy/spray hood, as it needs repairing anyway.

Me: I’m not too old and decrepit to both carry out and be able to enjoy the effort and sometimes stress of such a trip. My good health is a blessing! Balance excellent. Reaction time is still rapid. Adequate physical strength to cope. (Criterium for continued sailing is that I can still hoist the mainsail, without a winch!). None of this will last for ever of course, but any signals to the contrary will be heeded.

Visiting new countries and places is always an interesting experience. Why else does one travel? Doing it by boat maybe much slower than by road or rail or air, as it is distinctly non-competitive, but one does get a different perspective and life seems to be at a more relaxed and slower tempo. And harbour fees, if one wants to stay put for a day or more, are much cheaper than hotels, or even B&Bs. And there are always restaurants, and fishandchips. And anchorages are peaceful, very close to nature.

Do it again? Why not! Asked Margaret where next, and she half-seriously replied, “Ireland”. Ah, that needs thinking about. Probably too far to get there. And back. Or difficult to leave Josin there for a winter. Hire a boat there? No way! Josin for ever! But being able to spend more time up north in Norway, for example, by doing some longer, overnight stretches, rather than taking the month to get there, could well be a solution.

Life is good, and Alls Well.