Author: josinjohn

Tuesday 14th, midday, the wind had abated, so we set off south after lunch, through the last of the Gothenburg archipeligo, at a spanking pace, just for genoa. On the way, this combination appeared, honking it’s way up the fairway:

a gas tanker towing a tug! I think the tanker had steering problems, and the tug was doing the steering from behind. Anyway, lots of “here come I” honking and all us little vessels scuttling out of the way.

A short sail to Skallahavn, (57 21.6N 011 59.6E) to the last of the blue buoys, going south. No more suitable spots apparently. Buoys taken, so we anchored, in solid sand. Lovely sunny evening.

Next day, at a relatively civilised start time, we up-anchored and had a gentle sail to Varberg. Had thought of going a good deal further, but needed diesel. Varberg harbour is a busy place, with significant commercial traffic, turist boats for fishing, and sightseeing trips and a guest harbour in the middle of town. Pleasant place, so I decided to stay for the night. Shopping; food, fish, mussels and veg. No desirable bread. Swedish bread in the supermarkets is generally whit-ish and flabby. Mussels for dinner. Huge, succulent, and I ate too many. And still a few left, which the gourmand gulls enjoyed.

Next day, by now it was thursday, an early start was intended, as I wanted to reach the island of Hallands Væderø, a good stretch, in a plausible wind. We puttered over to the other side of the harbour, to the marina, and, after a bit of “not here, must be the next pontoon”, we found diesel. Just before tying up, the engine’s exhaust note changed from its usual snuffling sound to a that of motorcycle. Bother, engine cooling water failure. Diesel now at three times the price it was last year in Norway. OW! Good thing I decided to do more sailing and less motoring this year, which has happened. Systematic trouble-shooting revealed that the water intake under the hull was blocked. Water too cold and infested with small stinging jellyfish prevented a dive, but with prodigious puffing through a hose onto the shutoff valve inboard, all became clear again, fountain!. Cuppa needed, and a breathing rest.

So we didn’t get away until nearly lunchtime, by which time the favourable wind of earlier had reduced somewhat, so we had to assist with the engine occasionally, not least to help bash through the waves, which were confused and sometimes steep. Lovely day though and a very pleasant evening when we entered the anchoring bay, (56 25.8N 012 34.4E), on the south end of Hallands Væderø at nearly nine o’clock. No less than four, all foreign, sailing boats already there. Found a spot, rather near the entrance, and after two abortive attempts, anchored. Strangely enough, although the prevailing winds and waves through the day had been from the north west, here were rollers coming in from the south and making us all roll. Not really comfortable for cooking. At the critical moment I looked away and my plate with fried flatfish slid off the bench and landed on the floor, thankfully fish-side up. The peas and most of the chips were scattered. Taste not impaired!

Soon to bed, but not entirely happy with the anchor-hold, so slept in half-hour stints. Sure enough, at sun-up, just after 4 AM, the wind increased and the anchor dragged, and we headed astern towards the rocks. After two more unsuccessful attempts to find anchor-hold, we diverted in hope to the next-door bay, found it even less inviting, and motored off back the way we had come, to a large bay on the north-east side, called Sandy Bay, (56 26.8N 012 34.0E). Yes, sand, and excellent anchor-hold. Sleep, several hours.

This is obviously a favourite place for day-trippers, Lovely sandy beaches, rocks to climb and friendly grassy banks, (pic taken later today, more cloudy),

and sure enough, on this lovely warm, sunny day, they came, arriving with the charming “Nanny”, from the harbour of Torekov, across water on the mainland, in shuttle traffic through the day.

And now the last (hopefully?) have left. Just us and the gulls and the cormorants, and a seal!

Alls well!

Update from Slubbersholm. (That name.. holm means small island, I wonder who the Slubber was to be honoured by having it named after him. He probably bumped it).

The wind had blown well all night, right into the bay, and was still blowing, feeding significant choppy waves, which gave us a very rocking-horse ride on our way out. Then a sharp turn to port and a rushing, rolypoly sail into the Kirkesund channel. Contrasting cabins (hytter), som large: This one must be a three-generation one.

and some small:

And then in to the harbour at Skärhamn (57 59.3N 011 32.8E), to be welcomed by Stefan, of the Swedish Ballad club, who took a picture of me readying for arrival, then took my ropes, then a pic of us tied up:

Stefan was most kind and invited me into his summer home for lunch (and a sticky bun) and a long chat.

Stefan is also a boat-builder, of mini format, using the strip-plank method. Incredibly light and strong

On the way back to the boat he took me to the local bakery, famed for it’s products, where I bought the most delicious stone-baked sourdough loaf. (Most of it got eaten most enjoyably, for supper!)

Next day was sunny and with a promised sailing wind, which held until after we had passed through Marstrand, (traditionally posh), and held in strength but not direction down the long Salöfjord to Gothenburg. On the way we were spectator to a regatta creaming along under spinnaker. The poor boat in front almost got swallowed.

Then more south east towards the marina at Långedrag, and a rushing sail across the main fairway for vessels to and from Gothenburg.

The last post described our tying up in the marina, ably and generously helped by David Eitzinger next door, an Austrian:

who later on regaled me with tales from the oceans of the world until very late in the evening.

The wind howled for the next two days, so nobody left. I took the rattly tram in to Gothenburg to try and sort out problems with the broadband modem I have on board, but to no avail. Somehow it had caused a whole month’s subscription of gigabytes to be gobbled up in just five days. A very long telephone call this morning with Telenor’s tech help, didn’t sort it either, but we eventually found a solution without the malignant modem, so now I am back on the air.

Alls well

SailorJohn

I have given up trying to post the first one, which was written as a page by mistake, (this year’s start-up fumbles), and it is there in the app, but despite my, and kind advisor’s, best efforts, remains seemingly locked there. I see that some of my readers have seen it somehow, so further efforts would seem unproductive.

So, where are we now? Långedrag marina, (57 40.0/011 50.8) just south of, and outside Gothenburg. Over 500 boats, in moorings, (very few available), of the type popular in Sweden, where there are two scratchy, solid wooden poles between which you squeeze you shiny boat, looping lines over both the poles as you go past and hanging on to them so that you don’t bash the bow. Don’t forget to put the engine in reverse-then-neutral at the critical moment and at the same time avoid bumping the neighbours. Quite a lot of things to do all at once for a solo sailor. This procedure obviously needs practice.

Update after post #2: We continued south from Grebbestad, first a short way to a blue buoy at Musöen (58 38.2/011 14.3) in the rain. Next day a splendid sail for three hours to Långöy (58 29.4/ 011 18.0), where a cookoo sounded a welcome. SW wind blew hard during the night, (these blue buoys are safe!), and even the gulls, ducks, geese and swans took shelter somewhere out of sight. (Never saw the cookoo!)

Next day the wind had quietened down a bit, but was even more southerly, so back to motoring inside the islands, and through the Sote canal. And there it was the dreadful fate befell a too-busy-to-see-where-he-was-going captain. No, not that serious, but an interesting lesson none-the-less.

Pictures! Blogs need pictures! Also with me in them! I keep forgetting. But then I remembered that my kind and generous children had given me a selfie-pole, selfie-stick (?). Rummage. Find. Instructions not really necessary. Extend. Mount iPhone. turn on. Click. Pic of distance, not me. Wrong camera. Switch. Ready now? All this before we entered the canal. The canal is generously provided with navigating signs, some the usual red and green pole, and some rather more solid, a sort of tryfid, (three-legged), in thick logs, painted at the top with the right colour, and most of them with a gull nested-sitting broody right on top.

Selfie: Very concentrated. You can see the tryfid we’ve just passed. Took several pics in my enthusiasm, but this was the only printable one. Then BUMP! A (luckily) glancing blow on the next tryfid, enough to wobble Josin and me, but no damage, except to my pride. Moral and lesson: Priorities shall be respected.

Then on to Lysekil, with some sailing when the angle was usable, for: Foodshop, yes. Water, yes. Lunch, yes, fish-and-chips. And diesel, no.

Then the short distance south, motoring, to a blue buoy at Slubbersholmen (name!), (58 03.8/011 27.2), again for another windy but safe night

That’s enough for one post, more later.

Alls well!

02/22

I’m still not sure if this is working, but, hei ho we press on.

Last heard of we were tied up to a rock, at Kjäringen, (58 51.0/011 2.5), Sør Koster:

Here we are, quite secure, on second choice rock, (first choice occupied by that Crooooser)

See what nature’s artist has drawn on “my” rock face. Amazing patterns. It would be nice to know the process which formed them.

Spent a relaxing day in the sunshine, with some boat fixing, cleaning, and tidying, and some reading.

Yesterday, tuesday, the forecast was for a favourable sailing wind from the NE, followed by showers, so a relatively early start was achieved, in the sunshine. But the clouds soon started to form and the wind gradually faded to motor-sailing, then just motoring, navigating safely through the countless islands, to Grebbestad, (58 41.3/ 011 15.4). Confusingly many places to tie up, mostly occupied, so I chose one close to the center, a five minute walk.

Lo! a fishmongers again. Bought smoked makrell for a lunch, flounder fillets for a dinner, and shrimp to enjoy whenever. The Swedish food custom is a warm lunch, and this fishmonger had oven-baked cod on the menu, so, yes please! While that was being prepared, I popped across the street to a supermarket and shortened the shopping list. Back to lunch, and very tasty it was. Shop obviously popular, very busy.

Out through the door and into the rain. Bother, too soon! It was thin rain, but quite wet. Back in the boat with the heater on I soon dried out. Now what? A motor-potter a little further south to while away the rain. More navigating. To a blue mooring buoy at Musön, (58 38.2/011 14.3). These mooring buoys are set out by the Swedish Cruising Club, and if you are a member, (yes, I joined again this year), one can use one for a night, much more secure than anchoring, at which I am not too confident.

Today. It is still raining, occasionally. Forecast for tomorrow is better, with possibly a sailing wind, so plan to continue south, maybe to Lysekil.

Alls well!

Home again.

It has been a long time since the last one, sorry! But the journey from Kristiansand was busy. It was a wise decision to seek more southerly seas, as the weather turned bright summerly, to warm me up again. Heading north-east up the coast, the winds were mostly northerly though, which meant mostly motor-sailing.

Stopped at Lillesand (58 14.8 / 008 22.8) and had an enjoyable evening with earlier Ballad owner Svein Tangen. Then Risør, Finnøya, (58 44.0 / 008 13.6), earlier dingy sailing place. Then on to Stråholmen, (58 14.2 / 009 38.9), off the north end of Jomfruland, where the people there enjoy second hand books. First time there was three years ago, when I happened on, and was invited to a “180 years birthday party”, (three sixty-year-olds). Fun and games and competitions, including darts which got blown away in the wind. They got a proper set this time.

Then Stavern, (59 00.0 / 10 02.6), and an enjoyable evening with Sven and Titten Rønne. Next day met Anne Pettersen, the new owner of a well-known Ballad “Aquila” from Åsgårdstrand, and who needed help, first to start the engine. (Yes). Anne sailed round to Sandefjord (59 07.6 / 010 13.9) next day in Josin, to try and get the feel of a Ballad.

Dinner with Kari, long time no hug, at the restaurant “Huset”, just a few steps from the guest harbour. Ate the most beautifully prepared and deliciously tasting cod ever. Chef’s secret, but the waiter admitted that it had to do with ovens and temperature.

How about a sunrise? Sandefjord.

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Next stop, motoring all the way against the northerly, Tønsberg guest harbour, (59 16.1 / 010 24.1), met Gilbert, long time no hug, for a long chat and lunch of fish soup, also delicious. Then on to Åsgårdstrand in the afternoon/evening, thankfully sailing the last few miles in the gentle on-shore breeze, and into my slot in the sailboat harbour. (59 21.1 / 010 28.2). Odd to be home again after three months travelling, (stats later).

Åsgårdstrand at dawn:

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There’s still a bit of the sailing season left for pottering-sailing, and hopefully a club Tuesday Regatta, (not serious) or two if the weather is right.

Another dawn: Bit early for the first one. Had to get up during the night to un-tangle the mooring ropes.

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Alls well.

Back to Egersund, and then South and East.

A couple of days at home in Kongsberg was a pleasant change in lifestyle, a more comfortable bed being one! Also for a change, altitude! Took the car up the local mountain fairly early and enjoyed a gentle walk and sit-and-enjoy-the-view in the fresh mountain air, before the wind started to blow and changed the ambience.

A comfortable train ride back to Egersund the next day got me to Josin at about 9 and a detailed study of the various weather forecasts. Conclusion being that there was a weather window the next day if we started early enough to get round Lista, the westerly of the two bits of southern Norway which stick out and cause weather problems. OK. Alarm for 02:00, cuppa, (too early for breakfast), and away at 03:05. Very dark indeed. Night navigation skills a bit rusty, but modern electronic charts and screens helped awaken them. It is a very long time since I was away from the light «noise» of civilisation, and the night sky was a joyful kaleidoscope of stars, and probably planets, the brightest ones. All too soon dawn crept into the sky, the stars went home, and light increased.

Facebook groups are full of wonderful pictures of multicoloured sunsets, so these ones are unique,- a dawn!

And the sailing? Yes, as forecast, the wind gradually came in from the north and built up to sailable, and we rolled and pitched our way past Lista, and on in to Skarvøy, ( 58 03.9 / 006 54.5) a lagoon in a horseshoe island a few miles east of Farsund. A favourite spot, where I could relax and catch up on sleep in the bright sunshine.

Next morning, a leisurely start, and putter in to Farsund to fill up with diesel, water and food, with the intention of returning to Skarvøy until the wind moderated. Setting off back, the wind had already lessened, and by inspiration, I checked out the webcam at Lindesnes lighthouse. And Lo! It looked much calmer than expected, and a small boat made excellent progress against the wind and waves, which were going eastward. Plan B. Put on lots of layers of wool and the rest, and head out to sea and Lindesnes. It was rough, but not too. It was windy, but not too. Sailed at rushing-along speed and round the corner, where the seas moderated but the wind remained. All the way to Mandal, (58 01.5 / 007 27.1), in brilliant sunshine. Phew! The guest harbour was full, except for a just-big-enough spot for Josin. Several helped with the tying-up, all inquisitive about the conditions, «out there». I gave facts, and an opinion, and on that basis they all stayed put. That was two glorious days sailing, which lifted the spirits no end. And more to come.

Next morning, clear dawn skies and the same wind. A flagpole on the top of the local hill carried a pennant yesterday, but now a Norwegian flag, (must be someone important’s birthday), equally streaming in the wind. So, why wait, and we enjoyed another sailing morning to Kristainsand, (58 08.6 / 008 00.2). On the way the waves were much less, the northwest wind blowing offshore, and I rigged the windpilot for fun. Unfortunately the wind varied a lot in both strength and direction, and windpilot struggled. We zigged and we zagged, and we occasionally went straight on. No other boats in the vicinity, so no problem. Just fun. A third day of sailing. Smiles.

The guest harbour in Kristiansand is right next to an ancient iconic building, The Citadel, once a defence fort, now, this evening, a very loud play/happening. Hope is stops before beddybyes.

Written on my iPad, might look different.

Alls well.

Skudeneshavn to Egersund.

One attempt to leave Skudeneshavn resulted in a slightly ignominious return, the seas being too rough for comfort. Next day was much better, so we set our sights on Egersund, over the long stretch past Jærens Rev, exposed to the North Sea’s winds and waves, and even this time in a just-favourable wind direction. We motor-sailed, or we sailed, or we motored, and made very good speed due to a most favourable current which bore us along most welcomingly. Tied up in Kværnavågen, (58 28.3 / 005 54.9), a small inlet a few miles west of Egersund town, and well protected from the weather, which turned increasingly blow-ey.

Next day it continued to blow, so we stayed put and snoozed and read. Forecast was reasonable for the next stretch, round Lista and Lindesnes, the southern most point of Norway, so we started very early to make the most of it. Another ignominious return. I expected the conditions close to shore to be a bit bumpy with yesterday’s waves still prevalent, and reflections from the shore, but even well offshore it was still too uncomfortable so we turned and almost surfed back again to Kværnavågen. More reading and snoozing. And the forecast for the next few days was definitely not good, so we pootled in to Egersund and tied up safe on the guest pontoon. The skies were blackening rapidly, Quick. Up with the cockpit tent in a hurry, (more haste, less speed next time), completed just as the first heavy drops fell. And they continued to fall, in great quantities, and sought out all the leaky places.

What to do? Weather-window next tuesday, (now friday). Suggestion from a sensible friend was to take the train back to Kongsberg for the interim. So suggested, so decided. Seat available. Bestill.

Woke reasonably early and closed down the boat. Taxi to the station as it was bucketing down, (still got wet though), and now we are rolling along in comfortable seat in a tilting train. Weather improving gradually as we travel east, so there is hope for Kongsberg.

Attempted to take pictures of the incredible and varied views on the way, but every time the subject was suitable and the window not rain-covered, we plunged into a tunnel, (there are hundreds of them in this spectacularly vertical and valleyed landscape), so no pics this time. Difficult to adjust to the un-used-to speed too. From 5 knots (10 km/hr) to 50 is a bit of a strain!

Alls well,

LandfastJohn

From Tornes til Skudeneshavn

Another long way, in a persistent attempt to find the summer warmth. 300 nm in eight days, of motoring, some motorsailing and a little sailing. Yes, and it is getting generally warmer, in spite of the weather forecasters.

We didn’t get any help with either the fridge or the navigation charts while in Ålesund (62 28.4 / 006 09.3), but after a very thorough de-ice and clean of the fridge, it seemed to recover some of it’s cold, (threatened by the purchase of a Plan B cold box, which may save the day), so that will have to do until we get home, I hope!

From Ålesund we navigated the inner route, through majestically mountained fjords, on a photogenic day for once, and some gentle sailing when the wind blew in the right direction. The last pic is of the impressive pointed top behind Ørsta.

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To Larsnes (62 11.8 / 005 34.8), a convenient stop before rounding the very exposed peninsular of Stad. Spent a very pleasant evening with Asta and Hallvard, good friends of Jon Erik and Norma.

Then an early start to round Stad before the weather increased. This time round the rollers from the North Sea and the wind-driven local waves were not in too much conflict, so the passage wasn’t one of the bumpiest. Then on calm seas to Måløy ( 61 55.9 / 005 07.6) for a stop only for diesel, then onward past the near- vertical drop of the Hornilen mountain, difficult to photograph. It is apparently almost 1000 meters, straight down.

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To Florø (61 36.1 / 005 01.9) for the night. Guest harbour really full, so I was allowed to tie up at the day-visit pontoon, it now being after 7 o’clock and time over for day-trippers.

Left reasonably early next day, mostly boring motoring to Hardbakke, (61 04.4 / 004 50.1), another known harbour after several visits. A very-well protected harbour from all winds. But on the way, ah joy!, was contacted by Raymarine about the navigation charts. Many messages back and forth, with the conclusion that it wasn’t a problem with the display (Raymarine) but the datacard with charts, from Navionics, which finally managed to crash the display. Back to iPad and paper! The very helpful and patient Tom, from Raymarine helpdesk, had a colleague who was ex-Navionics, so they could tell me all about how to proceed, also by getting help at the Maritim boat-bits shop in Bergen

From Hardbakke to Strusshavn (60 24.2 / 005 11.4), outside Bergen. South of Hardbakke is Sognesjøen, (61 01.3 / 004 50.3) open to the North Sea and entrance to Norway’s deepest fjord, Sognefjord. We sailed, on a lasting southeasterly wind until entering the islands again. Very satisfying! Strusshavn is also a well-visited harbour either on the way north or south, very well-protected too. The long day meant that the Chinese restaurant was just shutting its doors when I got there, all hungry-like. No crispy duck this time, bother! The food shop was open though.

In to Bergen next morning, to the Maritim shop (60 23.1 / 005 18.6), in Puddefjord, the more industrial part of Bergen. Very helpful man took nearly half an hour of keyboard punching before he was successful in extracting a new chart out of the Navionics webshop on my behalf. I am sure that if I had tried, I would have given up in frustration. Afterward, I sat in Josin and watched spellbound while Navionics help’s Elisa took command over my Mac, to sort out the crashed card. Another half hour, crowned with success. I think she was just as relieved as I!

Next day to Haugesund (59 24.7 / 005 18.1), the “open fjord” way there, not through the islands. We suffered strong winds from almost all directions, these deep fjords causing much large-scale turbulence. At one point we had two reefs in both the main and genua sails, but making spanking progress! You can’t have it all! The forecast was for winds of mostly along the fjords in our direction, but it didn’t happen.

On the way in to Haugesund, we passed a maintenance facility of Equinor, Norway’s only major oil company. Who got the credit for numbering the sheds?

A new guest pontoon in Haugesund, a very much needed addition, but also full of course. Josin just fitted between two very large cabin cruisers.

Short, partially sailing in the sunshine next morning to Skudeneshavn ( 59 09.0 / 005 14.5), to await more suitable weather for crossing the next open stretch, Jærens Rev, to Egersund. Very low-lying agricultural land giving no shelter from the wind. There is much “offshore” activity in the Haugesund area, but times they are a changing:

Four transient supply boats in store, beside the venerable and very permanent Karmøy church.

On the way in to Skudeneshavn, the lighthouse on the point is perched on a convenient rock. Very conspicuous, and thus visible from long range.

Free day today to catch up on a few things, amongst others a clothes wash. Skudeneshavn has a very posh guest facility with modern machines, but an antiquated method of payment by COINS! I haven’t used cash for at least a year so had to make a trip to the local supermarket to get some. Then to navigate the system. To switch a machine on, you insert coins in the coin machine (choose the right one!), which tells you how much time you have bought. But how long does a wash take? Guess enough for two hours. Start machine. Come back in an hour and a half to check on progress, and it has finished. Kr 20 lost. Next machine is the drier. Same procedure, this time guessing short. One hour, machine stopped, clothes not even half dry. More coins, this time plenty? Almost, but not dry enough. Blow the bank of coins. Yes. Dryish. But I still don’t know how much I lost!

The success of the day has been getting the VHF to function. Much measuring of connections and sorting of cable-spagetti (labels on this time), confirmed the mast-top antenne to be dead, and a direct coupling of an antenne on the stern rail (borrowed from a little-used function), brought the VHF to life again. Lots of radio traffic. Mostly in non-understandable maritime language.

Alls well.

from Brønnøysund to Tornes.

(Sorry no blog for a while, been a bit busy boating).

That’s a long stretch. Logged 300 nautical miles in 8 days. The frustration of waiting for the weather in Brønnøysund triggered a realisation that if we were to get back to Åsgårdstrand this “summer”, we’d better get a move on when the chances presented themselves.

Had to include a detour in to Trondheim, to spend a convivial evening meal with my daughter-son, (Norwegian way of distinguishing the heritage), John Magnus and his partner Mariell. Excellent meal in Italian “Frati” restaurant right in the city center. Lots of laughs.

Have to show you a pic of one man’s boat dream, tied up in a corner of the Skansen Marina: It is a very small boat, but has everything you need for long distance cruising. (And I reckon my Josin is small by most standards these days). Looks quite spic and span and ready to set off.

The weather has been either chilly or very hot. Luckily it was sunny in Trondheim. Reports from down south have been of warmth. It finally reached further north, but the sudden change and contrast was uncomfortable. Conditions for sailing have not been favourable for most of those miles, so much diesel had been consumed. The partial exception was the day before yesterday, along the long, long stretch of “Trondheimsleia” (ca 63 30 / 09 03), when the sails were up and sometimes pulling. Looked good until late afternoon when these appeared:

A line of rapidly-growing cumulus clouds to the south east over the mainland, with thunder clouds behind, all seemingly marching towards us. Then the sun disappeared and it went all gloomy and dark. But no rain, (!. The temp was about 30 degrees and I wasn’t suitably dressed), just choppy seas and a sudden change in wind direction and strength, which blew us into Kristiansund, (63 07.1 / 007 44.0) . All very well, but coincidentally, the chart plotter suddenly would only show very general chart information, no detail. Luckily I have an iPad with the same charts, and very wisely also good old-fashioned paper ones, not up-to-date with the latest navigational data, but Norway hasn’t changed where the hard and bumpy bits are.

And the fridge has almost given up being cool. Luckily I am not dependant on cold beer. But the weather has changed again, to cold, 13 degrees this evening, and maybe the milk will not go off too quickly.

From Kristiansund, the next hazard on the way south is Hustadvika, a renowned stretch of sometimes disturbed seas. Today they were, very. Two main directions of waves, compounded by reflected chop from the shore, made for a very roly-poly ride and spilt tea. Quite the worst traverse in my experience. Glad to get to Tornes, (62 50.2 / 007 02.6) and make more tea, stationary.

Efforts to get the chart plotter to show detailed charts have not succeeded, so a request for help sent off to Technical Support. Reply awaited “within three working days”. That means the middle of next week. Ah well, out with the paper charts and revise my navigating skills.

Ålesund tomorrow evening, (a saturday), and maybe a fridge-solution on monday.

All is otherwise well!

Brønnøysund (65 28.4 / 012 12.5).

Appropriate, the number. This place may have many positive attributes, but summer weather does not feature. Southerly or southwesterly chilly gales and rain have kept us here now for four days, and it is still blowing. Only a very few have braved the weather and have either arrived or left. So, what has Brønnøysund had to offer, besides the excellent sheltered harbour?

A Chinese restaurant. Excellent crispy duck. A comprehensive modern shopping center along most of the waterfront. Busy. B’s population either at home, or in there out of the weather. Too few places to sit down. Helpful storekeepers, including a very knowledgeable lady in the large bookshop, who recommended. I bought five. (Read two already). Coop foodstore with very low, shelf-high ceilings, no signs (where, oh where is the ….), large fresh-food counter. Sourdough bread. Manager who welcomed me back. (She it was who helped me tame my damaged genakker into a carton to post-send to the sailmaker).

B has done much to bring itself up-to-date, using architects with ideas:

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1. Entrance to small-boat harbour. I’m not sure if one would feel safer crossing from left to right, or from right to left. 2: A lovely stainless steel tube railing, supported on rusty, artistically-curved posts, bleeding rust-tinted into fine stone slabs.

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1: Full harbour. 2: Including 104-year-old Faxen, from Bodø, still going strong with a fabulous dunk-dunk-dunk engine which also blows white smoke rings when warmed up. 3: One way of tying up, effectively blocking for another boat, at least the size of Josin.

And a tale, probably sad:

Josin’s near-tame spider, with web between the oar and the vane of the wind-steering gear. Those smaller black dots, yes, they are are difficult to see, are the previous evening’s catch, not dirty spots on the camera lens. Pic taken after leaving the sheltered place at Vegstein. He/she must have been fed up with his/her previous perch(?) between the pushpit and the lifebuoy, where he, or she, or maybe offspring, has lived for several seasons, and seen the new place as a much better catchment area. B’s gales have swept him/her away. Hopefully he/she will have survived, but is in bad-weather hibernation. We await his/her decision.

Tomorrow’s weather forecast is more promising: With no rain, almost-favourable wind direction and strength, lessening waves and even a bit of sunshine. Early to bed tonight and an early start tomorrow, goal is Rørvik.

Alls well.