Back in home harbour.
After Stråholmen I decided to sail (hopefully) where the wind blow us.
Too much still, early on, so a relaxed morning waiting and reading. After lunch, there was less whistling in the rigging, the wind indicator showed only 15 knots, so we untied from sheltered Stråholmen, unrolled the genoa and headed north east. Outside the islands in blue-sky sunshine, there were still all those rock-and-roll seas from days of strong south westerlies, so the ride was uncomfortable but tolerable.
Where to? Choice ended on Skutebukta, (59 01.0N 010 06.3E), just outside Larvik, which I knew as being well-sheltered from these winds. It was, but being a sunny but windy sunday, many other day-trippers were there too. Population gradually reduced during the evening until there were only sailing boats left, four of us, of four nationalities. Skutebukta must be in the international sailing tourist guide!
Short motor in to Larvik next morning, past the commercial port and in to Farris Brygge, and a small cubby-hole guest “harbour”, meant as a short stop spot for visitors to this complex of new buildings. Very convenient for Josin as it was only a short walk into the town, uphill though, and shops.
Sourdough bakery closed. Bother, it was monday, and sourdough bread doesn’t appear on mondays apparently.
A very knowledgable lady in the Nordli bookshop helped me stock up on books. I found the other things I needed, and enjoyed a seat in the sunshine with a coffee and a sticky bun.
Even up in the town it seemed that the dreaded wind was increasing again, and when I got back to the boat this was obvious, so we were not going to go anywhere further today. Also the wind was blowing straight into Larvik’s long bay and pushing the waves along, creating motion in my little cubby-hole. Spent the rest of the day rolling and reading. Evening meal taken in Peppes Pizza, also in this complex. Good pizza.
Next morning the wind had dropped and had veered west, and was forecast to remain reasonable, so where to? East of course. Swedish coast? Why not? and to a spot which I have enjoyed several times before.
Out past the commercial harbour, this time noticing a rather strange sight: A sail-sculpture in iron bars. A very small but significant balance to commercialism.
And a long, somewhat rolly-poly sail, all day, to Käringøy, (58 51.3N 011 02.7E) in the south of the Koster islands, to find another sailboat in my favourite spot. In my fumbling to tie up to other pins in the rock, Stefan came and helped, and we agreed that this was a very fine place.
Next morning turned out to be completely calm in this enclosed island group so we stayed and basked in the sunshine, while Stefan motored off somewhere else.
This archipelago is obviously a favourite area for kayak paddlers, as there were many of them during the day. It was so calm that I could hear them chatting well before they appeared. Rather strange, as I knew that seals don’t chat.
Next morning there was a gentle southerly breeze, so we should head north, yes? Yes.
A fine gentle genaker sail, slightly disturbed by the still-rolling waves from previous days, took us to Tisler, (58 19.2N 010 57.4E), a group of islands and many rocks only easily accessible in calm weather, so I was lucky. Anchored up in a small, sheltered bay with day-trippers scattered about on the inviting basking-rocks.
Next morning with also southerly, slight westerly, wind, this time stronger, so both main and genoa were set and we rushed northward, almost alone on the seas, to Engelsviken, (59 15.0N 010 44.0E), where there was a restaurant with renowned fish soup. For lunch, a little late. Excellent!
By this time the wind was stronger again, straight into the harbour and the restaurant’s pontoon, which made it very difficult to leave. Managed it after a struggle and some pontoon-bumping and motored the short distance to the guest tie-up places. Completely full. Others were obviously sheltering from this wind.
So, what to do? Wind now more in the southeast, so a rush-sail west across the fjord to the Bolær islands outside Tønsberg? Try.
But outside Rauer island, which shelters Engelsvik, that wind was now much more in the southwest, so Bolærene was unobtainable without much tacking in strong wind and very bumpy seas. No thanks. Not my scene. Now what? Well, home port was enticing, so why not, so I changed course, trimmed sails and rushed northwest. Wonderful sail!
Halfway, the wind suddenly dropped to next to nothing, then veered to northwest and blew, straight from Åsgårdstrand, on the nose. Most unexpected. Engine on, near full power, to battle the 25 knot wind and the growing, wind-blown waves. Genoa rolled in but mainsail left up and sheeted right in hard to improve stability. Slow progress.
Bit of a relief to reach Åsgårdstrand and calm home harbour. Bit earlier that originally planned, but OK.
Visitors to my berth during the summer, there had been several, had re-arranged all my mooring ropes, and had left them all dangling in the water, so now they were slippery too. Not a good welcome. Take them with me next year.
That sudden change in the weather had obviously been caused by a front of some sort, as visibility was much clearer afterward, and had left this evening sky to welcome us home. Nice!
Blue skies and a gentle northerly breeze today, so, a short walk to the supermarket for bread, (sourdough?), then out for a local sail to trim the windpilot under seldom benign conditions.
Alls well,
HomeagainJohn
Josin's 2025 cruise 