From Ålesund to Bergen.
3rd august was a non-boating day. Took the bus out of Ålesund town to the enormous shopping sprawl, Moa, where there is everything, and you get good exercise as well. Found what I needed, then retreated to “Spisestuen” (N for dining room), where I met Viel for lunch. Afterward she drove me to her home and her washing machine, needed and most welcome, and spent the afternoon catching up, (and watching some Olympics). Time to leave and I got an early-birthday present:
Viel rightly pointed out that if I was going to keep dry in inclement weather, I needed proper head-gear, the local speciality, (made in Ålesund), guaranteed effective. It has been, couldn’t have done without it under conditions later. It should have the front brim folded upward, forming a sort of gutter to drain the rain away from one’s eyes, and specs.
Rain next morning, forecast clearing later, which happened. So, set off after lunch, motoring, as the wind had been dragged away with the clouds, to the enclosed anchorage at Klungsvågen, discovered on the way north.
Interesting meteorological effects seen on the way: I love the top hats!
Next day was cloudy and calm, forecast to stay so, and ideal for rounding the tricky bit round very exposed Stad, so we motored optimistically off and found it to be true, almost calm. Rounding the headland, very impressive in its size and majesty, we met the North Sea SW rollers and reflected waves, and we nodded, and bounced, one could almost say, As Usual! Lasts for about an hour or so. Always repeat that I’m lucky that I don’t get sea sick.
In to Måløy, first to the diesel well, then to the guest harbour, then to the fish-and-chips restaurant.
On the way there, met the owner of the boat-things shop, in the process of shutting. Agreed to come back at opening time next morning to discuss new ropes for genoa sheets, as the present ones were getting frayed and argued with the winches.
Sadly, no suitable ropes, but hanging there, inticingly, was the latest thing from Ålesund’s experts in wet-weather gear. Very tempted, as my sailor dress no longer keeps the worst wet out. But size? Went back to the boat and got dressed in all normal layers and dress for worst weather, and waddled back to the shop. 2XL, in both trousers and jacket fitted well.
AND, I’m glad I did, as the next few days were all strong winds mostly on the nose, and thus spray, and all too much rain. I Kept Dry.
Actually, there was very little to remember or report, or more pics, for the next few days, motoring all the way to Bergen, nearly 200 nautical miles. Very boring. But I couldn’t just wait for the southerly winds to abate. They haven’t yet unfortunately.
Except…. Just south of Måløy, entering the narrow straight past the towering mountain Hornilen, I was very surprised to hear screams like a child was in agony. Not, thank goodness, but two sea eagles in a dog-fight. Very impressive, and wonderfully near, as they almost hit the top of Josin’s mast in their acrobatics, which sort of woke them up, as they ignored each other further and soared away, equally impressively, to each their revier (?). It all happened so quickly that I didn’t get a chance to grab the camera. Pity.
Bergen. Lived up to its rain-reputation. Tied up to the harbour wall in a small gap right opposite “Bryggen”, where all the pointy, old warehouses are. Always impressive, also probably to all the wandering huddled-under-umbrella-two-by-two tourists from the cruise ship nearby.
Managed to find the right bus-stop, and the right bus, pointing the right way, to travel and visit Hanne and Xander, and serendipitously, Kari, who had come in from Hardanger. Very succulent dinner, followed by the intricacies of mounting a shelf to a concrete wall. Then the stupendous news that Hanne had finally completed financing for her film which she has been brooding. Whoopee! Now the luxury problem of finding the time to make it!
Kari kindly drove me back to the boat in the late evening, in time for Josin and I to motor the short distance to Strusshamn, a much quieter place to wait for (slightly) better weather.
Alls well, though damp, from
WaitingJohn
Josin's 2025 cruise 