Month: July 2024

From Bodø til Brekstad. (63 41.1N / 009 40.2E), where we are this evening.

Sorry about the fumble with the last missive, maybe some of you kind followers didn’t get to see #17.2, which was the full report from Bodø.
As mentioned, we left Bodø very early as a sailing breeze was correctly forecast, and I wanted to make the most of it. This pic is looking back to Bodø, unfortunately into the sun, but the town is there, in the middle.

It turned out into perfect genaker weather, but as I hadn’t done the necessary preparations (which involve much leaning over the bow), while tied up i the harbour, I had to be content with just normal sail. But we sailed all the way to Selsøyvik, (66 34.5N / 012 58.8E), with a little engine-help in the tricky-navigation bits. 60 nautical miles. Weary but satisfied.
Next day was just as warm and sunny, but with less wind, so the engine had to help quite a lot. Not such an early start, I “over” slept, and another long day to my favourite anchorage, Hjartøy. View of the famous “Seven Sisters” from there.

Woke in the night to a rosy-red light and had to stick my head out to have a look: 02.35 on the clock.

Light rain arrived later, so I decided to wait and hope for clearing. It happened just after lunch so we set off. Should have stayed, as an hour later wind and rain came in chilly abundance, and we rushed along at a significant angle and frothing speed to Brønnøysund, (65 28.4N / 012 12.5E). With the weather coming in aft, there is nowhere to hide from it. Glad to arrive, as I’d been getting gradually colder even with many layers. Discovery: Even after a recent and a thorough impregnering, my sailor dress is definitely porous. I was wet to the skin through 5 layers underneath. Must find a more effective impregnation. Or oilskins.
The rain cleared late the next morning, wind forecast for genaker sailing in the afternoon, so I rigged it, and hoped. Yes, after getting out into clear water I unrolled the enormous sail and off we went, sedately and surely but reasonably fast as the wind was light. Most enjoyable in the clear-sky sunshine though.
To Gutviken, been there on the way north, for an uneventful night and a reasonably early start and more genaker sailing a blissful couple of hours before the wind disappeared. Engine on, to the diesel pump in Rørvik, and then onward.
To Småvær, been also there on the way north. It was fairly late when we got there, but not too late that the cafe was still open, and a pizza was ordered, and half consumed, (it was enormous), and the rest for lunch tomorrow

Next day was a no-breeze-and-flat-calm one, so we boringly motored to Stokksund in the sunshine. Think I got a bit sunburned. Checking the weather forecast for the way ahead, it said heavy rain soon. Difficult to believe as it was a perfect evening. But… looking south after dinner, there was a dark line of heavy cloud all across the sky, advancing rapidly Rushed to erect the cockpit canopy and batten the hatches and made it almost just in time before the skies opened and the wind gusted strongly from all directions. Boats danced and tugged against their moorings, but no damage as far as I could see. Storm lasted only about half an hour followed by wet drizzle.

Today was an antagonising motor-sailing day, wind very variable in both strength and direction until I gave up and took in the sails. Same did the following vessel “Pauline”: A so-called Jekt, a square-rigger from 1897, that era’s coastal cargo boat. Also at the Event in Bodø, now on her way home. We had been leap-frogging all the way from Bodø, she starting later and going faster overtaking Josin in the afternoon.

And just as Pauline came slowly past, something else came past, very fast: The Norwegian Navy in one of its air-cushion patrol boats. Plenty noise, plenty spray, plenty speed. Maybe 30 + knots.

And so to Brekstad for the night and victualling. (By the way, the shops shut at 15:00 here on a saturday, luckily not the supermarket). Tomorrow I take the fast catamaran ferry in to Trondheim to briefly meet John Magnus, to receive a new bank credit card which has been chasing me. It will be a “distant” meeting, as he is recovering from a bout of covid, poor fellow. There goes a visit with him and his Marielle, bother! Had been looking forward to that.

Bedtime now, alls well.

CruisepausedJohn

Forbundet KYSTEN’s landsstevnet 2024, Bodø.

What better for the organisers than bright sunshine, clear blue skies and summer temperatures on opening day. Must have been most encouraging after all the effort and time the members of local club “Salta” had put in to make the arrangement a success.

The inner harbour before the influx of those partaking. The outer harbour. Fresh prawns from the trawler make a good brunch.

Second attempt, hopefully not erased…….

Things really got started later on thursday with several teens of boats arriving in an enormous flotilla. Sail, motor and steam. Steam? Yes one, which made its presence (smelled) apparent.
Vessels large and small, all representing traditional usage and craftmanship. All looked after by enthusiastic volunteers. Fortunately there was a gentle SW breeze, which meant that the sailing boats could show off a little.

Large numbers of people had come out to the mound at the end of the jetty to enjoy the sight. A small pity that this was the only day without bright sunshine.
Then (most of) the boats congregated in the inner harbour:

I imagine the local fire-prevention chief was on holiday.

The static displays were all on the theme of tradition; boat building, rope making, smithying, wood carving, farming in the North, fish drying, fish smoking, local food, food from seaweed, stone-age food, clothing, and more….My eye got caught by (only the lower boards) the amazing and beautiful shape of a model of a coastal sailing freighter, to be built full size later when funding is secured. These boatbuilders knew what they were doing, all without drawings and specifications, by experience over generations.

And there were many interesting lectures and talks, of which maybe the most interesting and disturbing was one by Julia Olsen of Nordlandsforskning, (University North), about the Arctic Sea area, its development over recent years; ice cover changes, fishing, tourist activity, industry, shipping routes, effect of global warming and its contribution. It is predicted that the Arctic Sea will be ice-free in the late summer of 2050, thus contributing exponentially to global warming. Disturbing!

On friday there was a regatta, again blessed with a gentle SW breeze, which blows the right way for sailing in this fjord. Large variation is size and sailing ability, which spread the fleet quickly and made photo taking difficult.

The fleet was effectively dispursed toward the end by two cargo ships arriving and barging their way.

The Event culminated in the Grand Dinner; More welcomings, speeches, prizes giving and taking with thankyous, songs, play acting, and above all, happyhubbubb.
I had earlier found a clinic to update my hearing aids, but even then my hearing couldn’t understand. Pity, as there were obviously many good stories told.
The menu was of course of local specialities: Starter, a very tasty variant of smoked salmon. Main, a way of presenting resusticated dried cod which must be an acquired taste. Desert, a cloudberry something, very tasty.

I left before the end, as the noise had risen to a level shown as “dangerous” on my apple watch, and it was very wearying.
Lovely evening sky just after sunset on the way back to Josin at a quarter to eleven:

Suitable pic for me to end a most enjoyable Event.
Next morning, sunday, early, weather and wind perfect for southbound sailing, so I managed to get away at 7, and that was after breakfast!

Another blog about that, later.

Alls well
SouthboundJohn

From Vegstein to Hjartøy to Sandnessjøen to Selsøyvik to Sørfugløy to Bodø.

Nothing really eventful to report about sailing this stretch, as there wasn’t any. Sails have been up but help from the engine was almost always there.

From Vegstein to Hjartøy was in rain and wind against, but the anchorage there is one of the best, a narrow entrance to a lagoon completely surrounded by low hills. Sandymud bottom, perfect.
Next morning, quiet but chilly, and a motor the short distance to Sandnessjøen (66 01.4N / 012 37.9E), just to fill up with diesel, then on northward through what would have been splendid sailing, with wide fjords and calm water, but not this time unfortunately.
An interesting incident on the way: Suddenly the AIS system started shrieking with a blinking message on the screen showing “SART “and the exact position of an emergency. (Safety and Rescue Transponder). That position was close by. Oh, wake up! So, according to routine, we sped at full chat toward the position, to be of assistance. The position was from a salmon farm, but slowly moving round it. Odd. We got there to see that the signal was coming from the service vessel, and the crew were very surprised to be told! One rushed into the wheelhouse and came out bearing the culprit, a bright orange trophy-like shape. There followed an amusing sight of three crew members trying to turn it off. Afterward discussing how that could have happened. I said goodbye, as all was well, they thanked me and waved me off, to return to my voyage at normal speed. A new lesson learned.

There was plenty to see on the way, of Norway’s nature. Strange and sometimes beautiful mountain formations, especially illuminated by sunshine.

To the left is the “Rødøy Lion”, which is credible seen from the right angle in the right light, which wasn’t at this time of the morning, (leaving Selsøyvik early), with blue skies and flat calm.
In the middle, taken an hour later, the northerly wind had come in, but the clouds streaming from the mountain tops were being blown by a southerly. Meteorological oddity.
To the right is a long distance shot of the glacier “Svartisen”, which means Black Ice. Quite illogical to the foreign mind.

To the left, I would have called it the “Parson’s collar”.
In the middle, the “Guardian”, at Sørfugløy, looks as though nothing can pass it.
To the right a mountain with a scarf streaming from its head. (Still a northerly wind you see).

And then to Bodø, (67 17.0N / 014 22.3E), a few days early for the Event, which was the reason for this goal, because…..
Problems with Josin’s instruments. Specifically the one for indicating how deep the water was, but a few others as well, had been bothering me for quite a few days. Conversations with “help” services. Many suggestions but no solutions. Conversations with the helpful people at the company where I bought them. Same. Conclusion was that the chart plotter was defective and should be returned. That would have seen the whole cruise out, so I bought a new one and got it sent to Bodø. Gave me a couple of days to fix things before the Event. Needed only a couple of hours to install it and go through the whole start routine until all systems go! What a relief. Plague over. Relax.
Actually Bodø has been at its absolute best, sunshine and gentle breezes, (still northerly) all day and every day, so lots of people wandering about and savouring the summer.
Another Event was happening. Young gymnasts from all over Europe were here in Throngs and country-specific coloured clothing. Suddenly practicing their routines where they stood, to the public’s entertainment. Amazing what could be done with a skipping rope for instance. It is part of what is called rhythmic gymnastics I believe. Serious competitions over three days, which I didn’t watch.

Tomorrow the Event. The Coastal Society, Forbundet KYSTEN to give it it’s proper name, for the preservation of coastal culture and traditional boats has a gathering every year. This year in Bodø. (I was here their last time eight years ago). Thus tomorrow, Thursday 18th July, gather several teens of boats, from rowing to coastal steamers. All old, but cared for. Many sailing boats with viking-ship lines are my favourite. Keen and interesting people who keep their vessels and their traditions alive, and spread their knowledge to the younger generations. Also lectures about boat design and construction, building them, sailing them. Handwork of various sorts all being demonstrated. I’m looking forward to the smithy. And lots more. For three days, ending in a grand dinner on saturday evening.

Bedtime now. Alls well.

TraditionalJohn

From Gutvik to Vegstein, on Vega. (65 41.2N / 012 1.6E)

Woken up (lateish) by the Fast Ferry starting up its day, right next door, and churning up the water with its waterjets.
These fast ferries can be called the buses of the seas, do about 50 km/t, and get you there quickly. Ordinary ferries, at about 20 to 25 km/t, do the hard work and have always been part of island life. Carrying anything and everything, and with a simple kiosk where coffee and snacky food are in good demand.

From a drizzly start the day gradually improved with a light southwester, so mid morning we set off for destination(s) northward, motorsailing at a gentle pace. First place was Brønnøysund, (65 28.5N / 012 12.4E), but the day was still youngish, the guest harbour looked very full, and the breeze was picking up, so we continued, and enjoyed a wonderful brisk sail all the way to Vegstein, even keeping pace with two cabin cruisers who looked a bit puzzled. The wind was decidedly chilly, and it rained occasionally, and I was glad that I had turned on the heating well before arrival in the late evening, so I could thaw out.
A taptap on the hull even later revealed friend Britt, who could see Josin’s mast from her sitting room, and came down to welcome me.

Next morning, yesterday, wednesday 10 july, dawned (for me, lateish) with a gentle breath of northerly wind and blue skies. Amazing! Rather unexpected, and very welcomely warm after yesterday. Didn’t quite get to shorts level, but only one light jersey sufficed.

With a northerly wind, visibility is always good and although you can’t see it in the next pic, Lovund’s very characteristic mountain was on the horizon at 75 km. That lump on the left of the pic, Donna, is only 45 km away. That’s near the next anchorage.

Morning was busy with some domestics, chatting to the locals and eating waffles in the museum in the red building on the right of the pic. Local dialect is challenging, so after the first waffle I dashed back to the boat to put my hearing aids in. Louder dialect and more words caught.
Ever since one of my earlier visits, I have had my own Vegstein coffee mug, identifiable with a double reef knot round the handle, (thankyou Knut), and stored on a high shelf. Sad, it had gone, in a significant tidy-up I understand.
Later, more coffee and local carrot cake with Britt on her sunny veranda. Heard about her brother Johan, who had always been at a separate shed at the museum, tending old boat engines, some run-able, (I even assisted), but was now in the local nursing home, sadly reduced. We visited him in the evening bearing strawberries and vanilla cream, but it was sad. Life is inevitable.
Afternoon was spent at the World Heritage Centre, a really must-see. Tells the history of the local islands, especially the husbanding of the Eider duck, from which the nesting down has it’s name and fame as the best eiderdown filling there is. Eiderdowns still for sale, but at bank-account-emptying cost.
The evening brought “Mares tails in the blue, rain is soon due”, high cirrus moving rapidly north.
Yes, it is misty and drizzly this morning, forecast to dry up soon for us to be on our way again.

Alls well, if damp.

John

From Stokksund (64 02.4N / 010 3.7E), to Gutvik (65 05.1N / 010 49.8E).

5th July, must have been friday, dawned grey and wet, so I decided to stay put and read, or listen, or update data, or snooze, until nearly teatime, when things dried up and the sun peeped through.
Used the opportunity to update all the instrumentation on board. And there befell the nasty fate, of which I now relate. (Sorry Belloc).
Updating data can go wrong, particularly if you hit the wrong button or something. Maybe I did. However, after a long and otherwise successful session, there remained one item which had crashed, and no matter how I tried, I couldn’t get the echo-lodd (depth measuring), to wake up again. Oh dear. Contact experts. Mostly on holiday. Write a missive to the Manufacturer, Customer Assistance. “We much appreciate your contact and will reply latest within three working days”. And a weekend. But surprise!, got a reply next day, (from the US), asking for more info. Customer service had to refer the problem to the technical department, so I wait. Grrrr.
So, I now must navigate the shallower waters by avoiding the coloured areas, which are less than ten meters deep at low tide. Yes, there are tides here, getting bigger the further north we get.

The weather clearance brought with it a gentle breeze too, though a bit contrary. Nevertheless, we set off for motor and found a sailing wind out to sea. It held until very late in the evening, and we docked at Småvær, (64 26.3N / 010 32.9E), at 21:40.
Visited Småvær before, but in the interim there had been a serious bush fire, which had spread to and taken most of the buildings, so the place looked quite different and new. Asleep though. No one around to pay the harbour fee, and no instructive notice, so I couldn’t pay. Sorry.

Latish start next morning, grey but dry, but the sun melted the clouds away and we enjoyed the warmth and calm seas to Rørvik, (64 51.6N / 011 13.9E), where I had hoped to get some expert advice. Ignore next day, sunday, it rained, but I did get a few odd jobs done.
Monday morning, this morning, 9 o’clock, I phoned all three help-possibilities there were in or around Rørvik, but got the same answer. No technical personell available, all on holiday. Grrrr again!
So, a trip to the supermarket for a few things, and a bit of sight-seeing exercise before setting off again. An interesting sight was birds, lots of, Kittiwakes, a sort of gull, who nest on narrow ledges. Here there has been an attempt to reduce the building of nests on houses by erecting a sort of block of flats for them. See it? Between the red and the ocher building. But the birds have enjoyed their new home so much that they have multiplied and built on houses again as well.

Left Rørvik late morning when a nice southerly breeze came in and we have been wafted at a gentle pace to Gutvik in time for tea. The pontoon here is right next to the ferry terminal and I was a bit worried that we would bet bumped, or disturbed by propeller wash, but no. Relax. It is always an interesting sight to see how good these ferry-captains are at manouvering in tight spaces.
It is now late evening, still very light in spite of a lowering sky and the water level has dropped considerably, The ramp down to the pontoon is now at an angle close to being a ladder, but no worries, the water is remarkably clear, I can see the bottom and I can’t reach it with the longest thing on board. We are still afloat!
Sleep soon!

Alls well,
John

From Kristiansund, 28 Juni, to Stokksund, 4 July.
A bad experience and a good experience.

A late afternoon start from Kristiansund, after waiting for the rain to stop and a breeze to arrive, we sailed the few hours to an overnight anchorage in Halsbukta, (63 09.7N / 008 10.5E).
Hauling up the anchor next morning revealed that it had dug into a very productive area of heavy, orange-brown clinging seaweed. Hope the locals weren’t farming it for fodder.
Optimistically out into the open Trondheimsleia (open, wide and long fjord) for fulle sail we were making excellent progress running before a reasonable wind when we were very unexpectedly overtaken by a local weather-front and things got a mite difficult, with wind gusts over 45 knots and rapidly rising seas. Reefing sails, enabled only by heading into that wind with the engine doing its best and we outdoing the best tivoli-ride, took much effort, eventually followed by a relieved tail-between-the-legs run for shelter and an anchorage. Phew!
The gale lasted only for a few hours, with an equally sudden clearing to blue skies and benign conditions, so we had another go at progress and ended up after an enjoyable, though bumpy, sail at a quarter to midnight (still plenty of daylight this far north) at anchor at Røstøya, (63 26.4N / 008 57.0E).
Next day a short, uneventful sail to an interesting lagoon with a narrow and shallow entry at Storfosna, (63 39.3N / 009 23.9E).
On again the next day to Trondheim under varying conditions, to the guest harbour next to enormous grain silos, at (63 26.0N / 010 22.4E).

John Magnus and Mariell joined me for brunch, this is now tuesday, 2nd July, at a food-excellent but rather noisy restaurant, after which we sought P & Q at their flat, a charming but strange-in-layout converted cellar, up in the hills to the SE of the city. Don’t see this happy couple so very often unfortunately, Trondheim is only on my sailing route.
This is in the lounge corner:

John Magnus kindly drove me back to Josin in the evening, and as it was fine with a gentle breeze in a suitable direction, we cruised gently the two hours over to the north side of the Trondheim Fjord to a little marina at Stadsbygd, (63 29.2N / 009 59.0E) for the night. (Half price fee compared with Trondheim!).

But next day, yesterday in fact, thursday, was one of those sailing days which will be remembered for a long time, all the 55 nautical miles with a strong easterly wind urging us along to Stokksund, (64 2.4N / 010 3.8E).
Plenty of traffic to wave to on the way, this being the main coastal route, with us having to veer to the side to give space for the cruise ships and Hurtigruten, (coastal steamer, regular). Actually there was really plenty of space, but the wash from these large vessels is easier to ride if at a distance.

Screenshot from Marine Traffic.

We popped into Brekstad on the way to fill up with diesel.
(I wish these pumps could pump a bit less gushingly. The overflow looked like it was normal, judging by the amount of rainbow-coloured diesel on the water. My contribution was at least a half liter).

Arrival here at the Kuringvågen marina was rather unexpected, as we were helped with ropes by an ex-owner of a Ballad who greeted me by name. We had a long chat in the late evening sunshine.

Today it is raining again from leadened skies, with the forecast for clearing later. Perhaps another evening sail?

Alls well

John