Skudeneshavn til Haugesund til Bergen til Hardbakke.
Again fortunate with favourable winds and excellent progress. Am way ahead of schedule!
From Skudeneshavn the short distance (17 nm) til Haugesund was sailed with a fine beam wind sedately but fast enough in the calm protected water of the south/north Karmoy Sound. Ideal for trying out the wind pilot and it worked fine until other traffic and much navigating in the narrowing sound meant back to electronic autopilot. Only problem with the windpilot is that I have to stretch out over the stern to change the setting of the vane, which governs the course to sail. Must think up a way to do that with strings instead. Next winter’s project.
Haugesund has one og the most interesting shops for things boating. In several floors of an ancient building on the waterfront, structure made of thick logs, with natural-shaped trusses. Low headroom and narrow aisles and creaking floorboards. And everything, if you can find it. I had to ask for help, and a very kind assistant rushed off into the labyrinth and left me hurrying behind but quickly lost. Had to wait. He found me. Walked slower next time. Thankyou!
Early start from Haugesund, (07:15!) next morning to utilise the forecast wind, which was to gradually die away after a strong start. Check. Unfortunately the direction was right on the nose, NE, so we sailed close-hauled into the waves. (There were two other sailing boats ahead doing the same thing, so we couldn’t just motor could we?). Amazingly, with much careful trimming of sails in very small increments, and observing over time, we managed to improve the windward performance quite substantially over what I had deemed normal before. Pleasant surprise! (For the initiated: An improvement from 2,5 -3 knots in velocity to windward, to 3,5 to 4 knots). That ought to change our placement in the next tuesday regatta back home!
The wind died away just as we turned to the north into the next fjord, so we motored the rest of the way to a quiet anchorage at Orrøya, (59 51.5N / 005 13.9E).
Even earlier start next morning, 06:45, in flat calm and windless conditions and motored all the way north to Strusshamn, (60 24.2N / 005 11.5E), a few miles west of Bergen. Been there often before. The harbour in the center of Bergen is busy, noisy and unsettled. Tie up to jetties protected with large very black old tractor tyres, which leave ones fenders and hull black afterward. So I much prefer Strusshamn and a bus ride into town.
Bergen was looking its best in the late spring sunshine and all the many rhododendron bushes were in full flower.
Also a large cruise ship had disgorged its tourists so there were many milling about. A scene in the middle of Torgalmenningen had circus artists performing, so there was plenty to gawp at.
And there was Hanne and Sander! We met for brunch and then sat on a bench overlooking the water and fountain and the ducks and talked. Then took a bus to their flat, all very new for them and rather disorganised, with many layout plans and ideas. I’m sure they will end up with a very liveable space. More chat over several cups of tea from a large brown teapot and then time to bus back to the boat. Being sunday the bus timetable was a bit sparse, so I had to take just that one, or none. Shortened the visit a bit unfortunately.
As there was still much of the day left, I decided to head off and cover a few miles to a familiar natural harbour at Uttoska, (60 39.3N / 004 56.4E). Found a new pontoon to tie up to, instead of anchoring as before, and enjoyed a quiet night.
Next day, wind and waves and more wind and waves, to Hardbakke.
Pause for food.
Alls well.
Josin's 2025 cruise 