Kristiansand. (58 8.6N / 008 0.2E)
Idyllic evening in the guest harbour Must be the biggest cruise ship in Norwegian waters
From Lillesand to Kristiansand, evening 22 May.
The forecast said that the small gale would abate in the late afternoon, and it did, but it turned out to not be quite as much abate as predicted. However, the direction was still north easterly, which was just fine, so we set off out into a 2 meter heavy swell, going roughly in our direction, to 25 knots of remarkably warm wind. And we sailed! Had to zigzag tack downwind as the wind was otherwise dead aft and it was much more comfortable to have a bit of an angle. Those who follow Josin’s path on MarineTrafikk must have thought it a bit odd.
But the speed! Gilbert noted max speed on MT to be 8,2 knots. Quite incredible, helped by a strong current in our direction. Not so often that happens. A rolypoly ride with the seas all to ourselves. Not another boat in sight. Lovely evening.
We arrived in Kristiansand exhilarated and hungry. Oh? Yes, hungry. Embarrassing. Had made sandwiches to eat on the way, cooking dinner in those seas being quite out of the question, and had put them in the washbasin where they were handy and wouldn’t stray if we rolled. But. I had forgotten that when Josin rolls to a significant angle, water spouts back up the drain and into the washbasin. Saltwater soused sandwiches are inedible. One learns the hard way.
Hunger was dealt with by a short and rapid walk to McDonalds, just up the road.
Slept late this morning, probably needed that, and after a leisurely breakfast, poked my head out to see that floating suburban block of flats, the cruise ship. And the un-ending line of people walking along the pathway past the harbour. They were probably on their way to the Art Gallery, in a much-modified grain silo. I plan to visit, it is quite spectacular and the collection of art is apparently of high quality. But not today.
So I went shopping, in thronged streets of other slow-moving cruise tourists. To maintain my particular habit, the hunt was on to find sourdough bread. Hearsay whispered “Odd Bakery”. Google Maps helped and on the northern end of town there it was. Small back street, inconspicuous. Sourdough only, and nearly sold out for the day. But there was one “Land Loaf” left. They close at 3.
Excellent exercise there and back, and hungry back on Josin, it being now past lunchtime, nearly half the succulent loaf was devoured. Yum!
Then the skies darkened, and darkened more, and opened, with earsplitting thunder and lightning uncomfortably close, and rain battering on the cabin roof to deafen the sensitive. And the drips appeared, as always. I’ll never find the source. Plenty of mopping cloths are the coward’s answer.
Tomorrow I will go see the Art, between the predicted showers. Forecast wind is strong and contrary, so no sailing, not even motoring.
Alls well.
John
Josin's 2025 cruise 