Month: May 2024

Kristiansand

After the cruise ship had left, the town returned to apparent normality, and lived up to its boast being the sunniest place on the south coast. Pavement cafés were full and no one seemed grumpy. Shop assistants were smilingly helpful, and I found everything I needed, including sourdough!
And so to Bølgen and Kunstsilo: (No overview exterior pic as the only viewpoint is from the sea, these “buildings” being on the old wharf-front and backing onto a ridge).

Kunstsiloen. An ex-grain silo of enormous dimensions which has been gutted for much of its interior walls and turned into an art center. Incredibly imaginative. Most impressive. As you see, impossible to photo.

I took the lift up to the top, panorama view, slightly dizzying, and worked my downward. the top floors were either intact, or admin, but floor 5, “Kunst i kuling” outside platform, (slightly less vertigo), one item there:

Floors 4, 3 and 2, surrounding the central Hole, with all forms of art, each with its own section. Something for everyone, you see what you like.
The Hole is guarded by substantial glass panels, (no vertigo), and suddenly, there wafted up choir music, un-accompanied, and eeriely enthralling, from down below. (I’ve got a video, but it refuses to be included here, a pity, as it was a bit special).
Many impressions later, and a coffee, out into the fresh air at ground level and the broad promenade, with places to sit and think, and wonder, and feel weary:

Looking the other way, “Bølgen”, the concert hall and stage. Wonder what the acoustics sound like with that construction. Pity that there isn’t an outrigger platform so that one could get a more distant and direct view of these two remarkable buildings.
Kudos to Kristiansand!

Then the short walk back to the boat, viewing more art on the way, (think maybe some idiot had squirted som washing-up liquid into the water).

Goodbye Kristiansand!
Many positive memories and only one negative one, a heel-blister.
And back to sailing.

Looking back on the last few days since leaving Sandefjord, I have been incredibly lucky with the winds, in both direction and speed. Six sailing days with wind aft, max boat speed, and many nautical miles. As we rounded “the bottom corner”, Lindesnes, (57 58.7N / 007 3.2E):

and changed to more northerly directions, the wind stayed aft, blowing us forward in roly-poly waves, first to a quiet anchorage at Skarvøya (58 03.8N / 006 54.3E) for a night, then on to Egersund, (58 27.2N / 006 0.0E), a familiar place, and always worth a stopover.
A late start next day while waiting for a front to go through and take the rain with it, then off again, to increasing waves and wind, yet again aft, blowing us all the 51 nm to Skudeneshavn (59 09.0 N / 005 15.4E). Some maritime traffic on the way, me trying to keep out of the designated “roads”, until we came to a roundabout, clearly marked on the chart, and as no-one was looking, we went round it the wrong way, as it was shorter to our goal.
Rest day today, as yesterday was long, energetic and wearying. Opportunity to deal with the nasty smell in the drinking-water tank. Never happened before, so a bit uncertain if domestic chlorine, the only stuff to hand, will do the trick. OK, (I’ve got bottled water from the shop).

Alls otherwise well,

R&R SailorJohn

Kristiansand. (58 8.6N / 008 0.2E)

Idyllic evening in the guest harbour Must be the biggest cruise ship in Norwegian waters

From Lillesand to Kristiansand, evening 22 May.
The forecast said that the small gale would abate in the late afternoon, and it did, but it turned out to not be quite as much abate as predicted. However, the direction was still north easterly, which was just fine, so we set off out into a 2 meter heavy swell, going roughly in our direction, to 25 knots of remarkably warm wind. And we sailed! Had to zigzag tack downwind as the wind was otherwise dead aft and it was much more comfortable to have a bit of an angle. Those who follow Josin’s path on MarineTrafikk must have thought it a bit odd.
But the speed! Gilbert noted max speed on MT to be 8,2 knots. Quite incredible, helped by a strong current in our direction. Not so often that happens. A rolypoly ride with the seas all to ourselves. Not another boat in sight. Lovely evening.
We arrived in Kristiansand exhilarated and hungry. Oh? Yes, hungry. Embarrassing. Had made sandwiches to eat on the way, cooking dinner in those seas being quite out of the question, and had put them in the washbasin where they were handy and wouldn’t stray if we rolled. But. I had forgotten that when Josin rolls to a significant angle, water spouts back up the drain and into the washbasin. Saltwater soused sandwiches are inedible. One learns the hard way.
Hunger was dealt with by a short and rapid walk to McDonalds, just up the road.

Slept late this morning, probably needed that, and after a leisurely breakfast, poked my head out to see that floating suburban block of flats, the cruise ship. And the un-ending line of people walking along the pathway past the harbour. They were probably on their way to the Art Gallery, in a much-modified grain silo. I plan to visit, it is quite spectacular and the collection of art is apparently of high quality. But not today.
So I went shopping, in thronged streets of other slow-moving cruise tourists. To maintain my particular habit, the hunt was on to find sourdough bread. Hearsay whispered “Odd Bakery”. Google Maps helped and on the northern end of town there it was. Small back street, inconspicuous. Sourdough only, and nearly sold out for the day. But there was one “Land Loaf” left. They close at 3.
Excellent exercise there and back, and hungry back on Josin, it being now past lunchtime, nearly half the succulent loaf was devoured. Yum!

Then the skies darkened, and darkened more, and opened, with earsplitting thunder and lightning uncomfortably close, and rain battering on the cabin roof to deafen the sensitive. And the drips appeared, as always. I’ll never find the source. Plenty of mopping cloths are the coward’s answer.

Tomorrow I will go see the Art, between the predicted showers. Forecast wind is strong and contrary, so no sailing, not even motoring.

Alls well.

John

Early morning quiet, 06:00, wednesday 22 May.

After two fast and bumpy sailing days, we are now in Lillesand harbour waiting for the wind to drop to something more comfortable. Even in this sheltered place riggings are whistling. So, what’s been a-happening?
18th May was spent anchored up in a quiet bay, (59 4.6N / 010 13.7E) just south of Sandefjord, fettling. No major things, just those that I’d put off before leaving, og forgotten, but quite a few small ones. Took time.  Lovely sunny day, no wind, perfect for fettling. Visits from swans, and ducks.
19th dawned with still no wind, but a little breeze came in in the afternoon and we motor/sailed to Stavern, (59 0.0N / 010 2.6E), where I visited friends Sven and Titten Rønne for a very pleasant evening.
20th provided wind! Plenty. From the north east, which was just what we needed, as we were heading south west. Plan A was to stop at Stråholmen, but half way there it seemed that further goals were much better, and we sailed, very fast but bumpy in the current-troubled waters, to well known Finnøya, (58.44.0N / 009 13.6E), home of the Risør Sailing Club. Two sailing boats there, both 40+-footers, and Josin seemed very small. Quite OK, as long as there is space for Josin.
A good night’s sleep, bright sunny morning again, measured the water temp, but no, not yet.
Then in to Risør town to shop before setting off out into the same bumpy seas and following current, and same strong wind which blew us all the way to Lillesand, (58 14.9N / 008 22.8E), a near 50 NM long stretch in only seven hours. Wheeeee!
Visited old sailor friend Svein Tangen, who no longer sails, but is always good company and keen to hear of my exploits. Coffee and biscuits. Svein’s daughter Elisabeth arrived and the evening stretched out.
Back in the boat it was now too late to continue to Kristiansand, which was the possible plan, before the wind was forecast to blow even harder. But no, better to relax.
And blow it did, still doing it (at mid day). Clouds (what are they now?) rushing past. So, blog and coffee time, then find the diesel leak (which prevents the cabin heater from working and diesel ends up in the bilge), then lunch, then more waiting. Book maybe? Considered taking the inner route, (Blindleia), to Kristiansand, but the very-detailed charts needed for the navigating-fascinating trip, (motor only), are at home, and I don’t want to hit something unseen and lurking.
Wind forecast to reduce to manageable late this afternoon, we’ll see.

Impatient SailorJohn

16 May. Cloudless sky. 20 degrees. Three smiling crew, Kari, Gilbert and Hanne. What more……? (Sorry about the half-faces, copying and inserting pics needs to be learned, but later).

All (!) the way from Tønsberg to Sandefjord, (21 MN). Very little wind unfortunately and very fickle too while in the inner fjord, and then a nice breeze but directly on the nose when out in the open. We did manage to sail the early part of the way, with an occasional gust to make Josin heel a bit, or a little help from the engine, enough anyway to be able to say that we sailed! But the rest was motoring.
We had planned to anchor up for lunch in Tallakshavn, a lovely sheltered bay about half way, but progress was initially so slow that we hungrily agreed that lunch now was better than waiting and Kari served up a very succulent and copious Caesar’s salad while under way. (Calm gentle seas, no problem).
We all soaked up the sun and the sea air and agreed that we had enjoyed the day immensely. Happy hugs all round.

And then the embarrasing bit: I had earlier discovered when installing the wind-steering gear that a vital bit of it was still in winter storage, nestling in a shelf in my workshop at home. So, kind Kari lent me her car and I did an evening trip to and from Kongsberg to fetch it. Actually there were several other things too, none important, which were still at home, so they got fetched too. Note to self: Find and update the “things to take to boat” list. Memory is obviously not reliable enough. (New news?).

Altogether a long, busy, summery, boating and enjoyable day. And was I glad to fall into my welcoming bed aboard in the end!

Written, with early-morning-cuppa, today the 17th May, Norway’s National Day. Woken by the oblicatory salute of three very loud gun shots from the top of the hill behind the town at 7 am to begin the day. Later there will be parades, marching with horns and music and drums, long procession of all the school children, much waving of flags, speeches and icecream. It will be fantastic!
Heia Norge!

Alls well, from: A slightly weary SailorJohn

Time’s a-rushing by. Josin fettling is almost finished, and departure date is fixed. (If I find out how to edit out that date in the heading picture on the right, I’ll do it)

Not much new for this season. Two solar panels on the cabin top instead of one, which hopefully means that at least one is not in the shadow of the boom/sail. Saw nearly 7 amps yesterday in the late morning sun. Promising. Also a new chart plotter to replace the (12 year?) old one, hopefully easier to use, So far at least the screen is much better.

Plan A for this year is the Norwegian Coast, as it is familiar and the sailing is more sheltered. Goal is The Coastal Society’s meeting in Bodø, (67 degrees 17 minutes North, 14 degrees 22 minutes East), 18th to 21st July, where, if anything is to go by from the last one there 8 years ago, will mean lots of interesting old boats and their engaging crews. Bodø is also a Cultural Center this year, so there should be much to see and do.

Hopefully the effect of global warming will help the temperature up a bit from last time, but if not, I’ve packed plenty winter-style clothes and hope I don’t need to wear them.

Last trip to Åsgårdstrand tomorrow with all the things I’ve planned, or forgotten ’til now, and back to park the car for the summer. Then train/bus/taxi back on Wednesday morning for provisioning and last-minute things, before setting off for Tønsberg in the afternoon and overnight there. Kari and Gilbert will come aboard on Thursday morning for a (hoped for) sail round to Sandefjord, (Forecast is rather windless unfortunately).

Summer has begun! Whooppee!

Anticipatorysailor JosinJohn