From Tønsberg to Stråholmen.
It was a lovely evening after a convivial afternoon with Kari and Gilbert, So I decided to set off rather than listen to Tønsberg folk enjoying themselves.
A gentle breeze was unfortunately on the nose, so we motored out the Tønsberg fjord toward the open sea.
After only an hour the lovely evening turned dark with lowering clouds and then rain, and then much more wind, still on the nose. Should have checked the weather forecast! Never mind. On with more protective clothing and huddle under the sprayhood, and in to sheltered Tallkshavn, (59 04.6 / 010 18.4), where there were several other boats anchored, and, surprise, a mooring buoy available. Thank you! A quiet night, even though the wind blew.
Next morning a much brighter and slightly calmer day, and a sailing wind, almost in the right direction. So, we sailed, close hauled into a 15 to 20 knot wind and choppy seas. Several long stretches later, strangely much less boat movement on port tack than starboard, we rushed into the fjord past Malm island south east of Larvik and dropped anchor in a small, sheltered bay called Skutebukta, (59 01.0 / 010 06.3). Two other boats anchored, unfortunately one of which had a powerful sound system. Having hoped and waited a while, I re-anchored as far away as the small bay would allow, and was early to bed.
Flat calm early next morning and bright sunshine, and with the morning routine hastily complete, we motored out round Malm island and headed south west out to sea. It remained windless, well almost, and we waited patiently while the engine did its usual excellent job and took us to Stråholmen (the Straw Island), (58 54.2 / 009 38.9). A place with a long history and for many years a harbour for the local pilot boats. Most informative notices:
Relaxed and enjoyed the sunshine for the rest of the day, the only visiting boat:
The community consists now only of summer residents, many of whom are descended from earlier inhabitants. In the evening, (sunday), almost all took off at high speed in their small boats, and a taxiboat, back to the mainland as it was now past holiday time. (Pic taken this morning)
Today, monday, started with intermittent sun peeping through low clouds blown by a southwesterly, so I decided to explore. Houses are well-kept and obviously enjoyed, with small garden plots and interesting sculptures: Light not good for pics today.
If the sunflowers grow taller they might get blown away. This island is very exposed.
Old boats never die, they get used as flowerbeds.
“And swords shall be ’til plowshares” and maybe then to sculptures!
Much of the arable land is now fallow, but there is a large flock of wild sheep who graze all the year round. Much of the outskirts of the island is designated National Park, with seals and countless birds, including an enormous flock of Canada geese, cackling loudly at my distant intrusion.
Quite a place!
Seep rain this evening and a dying wind. Forecast predicts a suitable wind direction (more southerly) tomorrow, which will hopefully waft us southwest further down the coast.
Alls well.
SolitaryJohn.
Josin's 2025 cruise 