From Ebeltoft to Marstal
At last the wind loosened its grip on all us sailors, and as a small armada, left Ebeltoft behind. We even had a hint of a regatta between those going the same way.
Whatever, it was a grand sailing day, almost all the way to Reersø (55 31.2 / 011 07.6). Mostly close hauled and the autopilot steering by the wind direction. Tried the wind vane, but it couldn’t quite cope with the narrow sailing angle. Gradually there was less wind, and when we had to avoid all the traffic in the main shipping lanes, the engine had to help a bit, then a lot.
We anchored up in the bay outside the harbour at Reersø, when we tried entering the rather small harbour and saw two boats milling around trying to find a slot.
Calm evening and night in the company of the cormorants busily diving and fishing, and one fishing boat tending its nets. Didn’t see much fish being hauled out though.
Next morning, blue sky, strong sunshine, absolutely flat calm water and not a breath. So, a reasonably early start and a day’s motoring all the way to Lohals, (55 08.0 / 010 54.1).
On the way there, there is a very impressive bridge, at (55 20,7 / 010 02.9), which connects the two main Danish islands of Sjælland and Fyn. Even in the second picture the cars seem almost invisibly small.
But, serious navigation attention was needed as the current in the channel under the main span was at times over three knots, against of course.
It would appear that have timed this south-going trip all wrong. Every day the Baltic is emptying, according to my appreciation of the tide rhythm, by creating a north-going current in these channels, out into the Skagerak and into the North Sea. You can rely on assuming that when the time comes to sail north again, the tide rhythm will have changed too.
To try and avoid the strongest current, I steered first east after going under the bridge, in a long curve, but very little respite from the current as it was so shallow. The current must change the contours of the sea bed by moving sand around, and the chart didn’t show the depth I was measuring. Bit nail-biting actually.
Lohals provided some unintended entertainment in the form of me trying to buy fish and chips at the fish-and-hamburger stall with Norwegian cash, as the slightly bewildered, but very helpful lady only accepted Danish cash or the local form of telephone money, to which foreigners do not have access. We agreed in the end, after more or less helpful comments of others in the queue in various languages about exchange rates, and with the final help of a young teenager using the calculator on her telephone. I have a suspicion that I paid well for my fish-and-chips, but they tasted good.
The day dawned in Lohals with sunshine and a nice easterly breeze, with the promised forecast of it continuing throughout the day. Prepared the gennaker and all it ropes, to the keen interest of the neighbour who had not seen such before.
Set off gently motoring through the sandbanks into more open water and hoisted the billowing sail. Exileration! Water was nearly flat calm, as we were sailing close to a long island to the east, so sailing was just fine.
Until we neared the next bridge, at Rudkjøping. Narrow channel again between markers, leaning heavily against the very strong current and meeting traffic including this magnificent Dutch Jakt.
Busy for a while there, when the genakker was reluctant to be rolled in.
A long channel south of Rudkjøping into more open water and normal sailing in a gradually dying wind to Marstal, ( 54 51.1 / 01031.1), where we found a comfortable slot near the town center.
A wander into the town later and a rather sad sight of a museum sailing ship being shorn of its yards and mast damaged in the storm the other day. (I got there too late to see the whole process). The bits viewable on the ground showed that they were considerably “worn out”, by weather and years.
I rained quite heavily last night but today is a good sightseeing day, particularly the maritime museum, which is one of the cruise goals.
Alls well
TouristJohn
Josin's 2025 cruise 