Gilleleje (56 07.5 / 012 18.8)
From Varberg, the wind blew us, and the waves tossed us, all the way to Hallands Väderö, (56 26.8 / 012 33.8), some 45 nm, wow!, and we tied up on the other side of the ferry jetty. Very peaceful, very quiet, after a rather bumptuous ride. This would have been Plan D if I had plotted it in while in Varberg, as I couldn’t hope to get so far. But the wind blew steady and strong, and as the possible goals swept by, we just carried on in style.
Woke next morning to an overcast sky, but the wind still steady in the same direction. So, up and at it and next stop Gilleleje. Another bumptuous ride at full speed. Very attentive to the commercial traffic going into and out of northern Øresund. Arriving at Gilleleje presented a problem. The wind was still strong and waves were sufficiently bounce-producing that I didn’t want to go out of the cockpit to put out lines and fenders before going in, but couldn’t remember what the harbour looked like inside, for a temporary pause to do the necessary. Relief! A small “lagoon” just inside the outer harbour entrance provided just the necessary space and shelter. A complication was that another sailing boat arrived just after us with the same mission. We both, suitably attired, puttered proudly further in. No spaces! There must have been a general feeling that the wind was either too strong or in the wrong direction for any intrepid sailors to leave yet, (it was only mid day). Eventually found a space absolutely furthest in which has turned out to be acceptable. (Nobody has complained!).
Now yesterday was Midsummer’s Day, and I had no idea how the Danes celebrated. Google to the rescue. Two programs on two different websites, but they agreed on where, the West Beach. So in early evening I followed the flow and there were the crowds, in and on the dunes at West Beach. Everyone doing their thing, families grouped on rugs, elderlies on camping chairs, people wandering, ice cream dripping in hand, and a large group around the Tuborg tent. The other most popular draw was a bouncy-castle, packed with kids, parents outside looking in, parenting.
The programs, both, had listed a bonfire, but as it has been, and still is, brown-grass dry, bonfires had probably been cancelled and instead, several large bowls with containable fire, with an attendant fireman with hosepipe, provided more than enough heat to burn sausages and marshmallows golden black.
Gilleleje is crowded with people this festive weekend, and a typical town square market provided both artistry and other things. I took many pictures, but most have mysteriously disappeared. Right now I am not motivated to go back and try again, (past lunchtime, and it is hot), so here are the few which have survived:
Many Danish houses have a thatched roof, and here must be one of the most artistically carved. Not quite sure what those things on the top are, but they must be something to do with keeping the winter gales under control. These knives are really incredibly varied, and the basketwork, (both eye-watering expensive), and there isn’t room on Josin for anything un-useful, is there?
By the way, the wind is blowing directly from the direction we aim for next, so therefore no need to stress onward, and enjoy where we are. Lunch: Fresh peel-your-own shrimp on almost-warm rolls, mayo and a squirt of lemon juice. Then snooze. Then what?
Alls well.
JosinJohn
Josin's 2025 cruise 