Actually, timewise, between #13 and #14.
As promised, the weather over Saltsjöbaden cleared to a cloudy/sunny mid day, and a sailing breeze, so we set off after an early lunch, eastward back the way we came, then northward. On the way, sailing the other way, was this glorious example of a ’30s Swedish calmwater classic, pencil slim and astonishingly fast. Fantastic that a few splendid people spend the time and TLC on these clenodiums.
After an uneventful sail/motor, I decided to anchor up for the night in a promising little bay at Ramsmoragba (!), (59 25.3N 018 54.5E). Quiet spot, only disturbed by the ferry in the evening, and next morning, early, which started my day.
On northward, through the skerries by sail and occasional engine when headwinded, then a decision: Stop for the night before crossing the Åland Sea, or continue? Intense study of all the available forecasts. Agreed. Go! A long, rather rolypoly, rushing and invigorating sail, almost close-hauled in 15 to 20 kts of warm wind, to the southernmost harbour in Åland, Rödhamn, (59 59.2N 020 06.3E), avoiding ferries, cruise ships, and a tug pulling an enormous barge carrying wind turbine blades and masts. Maybe the tugmaster was a bitt worried awhile until he was sure that I had altered course enough to avoid him. I chose to go in front of him, (help with the engine for a few minutes), as going behind would have meant the long way round behind the barge and a headwind afterwards. That towline must have been a kilometre long!
Rödhamn was full. An obvious stopping-off-on-the-way place. Lots of Finns going SW, and lots of Swedes going the other way, probably just done what we had, but the anchorage area had just enough room for us to anchor. Seemed very late, but was confused for a little while until I appreciated that Åland is on Finnish time, one hour ahead of Sweden/Norway. A long, rather tiring, but most enjoyable day, 11 hours and 55 nautical miles.
After a good night’s sleep and a leisurely breakfast, we motorsailed through the islands, via very well-marked routes, to Mariehamn, (60 06.0N 019 56.9E), to the marina on the east side of the town. There is a more official one on the west side. Mariehamn is on a long peninsular. Found a free berth, this one with a side-pontoon out from the main one. Luxury! Could go ashore over the side, stepping with dignity instead of jumping with tribulation over the bow.
On the way in, a wonderful sight came majestically the other way, in slow tempo in the gentle breeze. Again, praise to the dedicated souls who look after these traditional and invaluable vessels.
Spent the next day on domestics, shopping and sightseeing, but that should be in another epistle.
Alls well!
Josin's 2025 cruise 