Saturday 18th, dawned wet and drizzly, with clearing to a fine NW’ly wind, so after another ZZ, we set off a little later.
Clearing the island’s lee, sailing conditions duly appeared and we rushed along under full sail in the right direction. Tried to take a pic of the excellent speed!
A remarkably few hours later we arrived in Helsingborg, for a shopping-stop and a very good fish soup in the harbour cafe, and then onward, over the Kattegat to the Danish side. Incredible south-going current of 2,5 to 3 knots wanted to push us towards Germany, and with a dying wind, the engine had to help to get us where we wanted to go, to Humlebæk, (55 58.3N 012 32.8E). It started to drizzle just as we got there, and were kindly assisted in tying up by a dripping German couple, who were very interested to hear about our “spots” further north, never mind the rain! A long day soon ended after a quick meal, look at the weather forecast, (for rain until mid morning), and sleep.
Still raining, so another lie-in and a late English breakfast, only interrupted by the harbourmaster wanting his dues, and with a mine of information about the currents further south. My understanding of Danish is very dependant on the dialect, and this one was tricky, but i think he said “keep close inshore, then The King’s Channel past Copenhagen”. So I did. But never found that channel.
My plan to go to Humlebæk was to visit Louisiana, Denmark’s Museum of Modern Art, which is only a few minutes walk up from the harbour. I think the harbourmaster said “as it is raining and a sunday it will be very busy”, (busy not really my scene), so I decided to give it a miss and visit on the way back.
Keeping close inshore means there is a lot to see, first Louisiana, with a jumbo “mobile” in the garden: Yes, there were lots of people to see through the big windows.
This bit of the coast has a sharp escarpment down to the shore, and there are many different solutions as to how to get from your house to the water. (Not very clear against the light)
Then a rare sight, a “fishing pedallo”, a rod on each side and a patient fisherman, gently pedalling:
Note varying degrees of “posh” of the seaside dwellings!
Having not found the King’s channel, we nevertheless passed Copenhagen in safety, being very careful about the abundant traffic, and into open water again, and past one of Denmark’s early wind turbine farms.
I tried counting several times, about 48 on average, all rotating evenly in the evening wind.
Then, just to relieve the boredom, the detailed chart disappeared from the chart plotter, like falling off the edge feeling. Oh dear! Back-up on the iPad still working. Odd. Dig out the paper chart, no problem. Problem solving an evening task.
To the loooong straight channel, clearly marked, to Falsterbo Canal, N, (55 24.7N 012 55.9E). Whole rest of the evening spent trying to resurrect the lost chart, to no frustrating avail.
Awoke this misty, moisty, sunny morning to the signals for the canal bridge opening, at 6 AM! Majestic vessel came through.
I think today will be a R&R day, apart from the chart-chase.
Alls well!
Josin's 2025 cruise 