Did I, or didn’t I, publish #6 just after I’d written it. I am in serious doubt. Whatever, I’ve just published it, to make sure.
Monday 20th, last spot posted. Falsterbo canal. After a relaxing morning, a clearance late in the morning turned conditions into a sailing day, wind from the SE. So under the opened bridge at 14.00 hours, and through the short canal out into sailing waters, up with the main, (yes I can still hoist it), the roll out the genoa, and we were sailing briskly along in a quarterwind in the right direction. The weather brewed up,, luckily only over land, until half the sky was filled with a dense, black cloud, with rumblings from a goodly distance, but no visible lightning. Anvils developing overhead. Very impressive, and somewhat, er, threatening. So Plan A, Ystad, was probably not wise and we put in to Plan B, Smygehavn (55 20.3N 012 21.5E). Very small, but space for Josin. A very strong pong of cowshed or similar wasn’t too inviting, but was explained, (local Swedish dialect between a missing tooth or two was a challenge), by the harbourmaster and his assistant, to be a general fermentation of the weed on the seabed and there was nothing to do about it. OK, get used to it!
Went ashore, just in time before the shop shut. The local “fish and smokery” shop. So many variants, all succulently inviting. As it was now nearly dinner time, I bought this:
Very Swedish, many tasty variants of soused herring, smoked salmon, HB egg, and,and,and. Enough for two.
Next morning, now the 21st, dawned sunny again, the morning chill taking the edge off the pong. The breeze was still from the SE, so we enjoyed a gentle, genoa only, the short sail to Ystad, (55 25.6N 013 48.9E), a busy ferry harbour and a large marina.
When planning the visit to Ystad, there were things to do: Chart help. Collect the navigation lantern, (long story). Decent bread. Strawberries. Now Ystad is a reasonably sized town, and a pleasure to walk in, its architecture varied, its cobbled streets undulating.
Google Maps has an estimate of how long it will take you to walk from A to B, but the googlenerd who timed things must have used what the Irishman replied when asked, “Oh, its about ten minutes walk, if you run”. No, I just doubled, or even trebled, Google.
First priority was the The Chart. Google had suggested Ystad Skeppshandel, at the edge of the marina. An Eldorado of shelves in many heights, with very narrow, sideways, passageways in between, new things, old things, never-throw-anything-away-things. And, a very helpful young man with an understandable dialect, who tried very hard, but we eventually came to the conclusion that the only safe solution was to purchase a new one. Ow!, but done. Later, a long process with Mac, memory cards, Navionics app and patience produced the desired result.
Next. Collect Navlight. Done. Next, find bakery, selected from several suggested by Google. Then the walking started. (Google said 6 minutes. I timed it on the way back, 16! Ha!). Perseverance prevailed. A sourdough splendid, all crusty-burned:
The pointy end didn’t last long when back on the boat. Oh Yum!
Next, strawberries. Several stalls in the town square had them on offer, so I chose the littlest stall with the somnolent bearded guy with an ancient straw hat, who looked as though he had plucked the berries himself. Tested and found succulent, a berry that is.
Back to boat, a little footsore, but satisfied. Relax.
Forecast was for more sunshine, and again SE winds, of tempting strength, so Plan A was for distant Hanö island, with Plan B Brantevik or Simrishavn, but an early start was indicated. Didn’t wake up in time though, nevermind, so we left Ystad at 09:00. Perfect sailing, in company with several other sailing boats ahead, enjoying the conditions. A bit rolypoly at times, but invigorating. Max boat speed all the way to the southernmost point of Sweden, then turn north east, were the waves subsided, leaving sailing even better. Full speed past Brantevik, then Simrishavn, obviously, and head straight for Hanö, only 30 nm away. This is Life! More of that dark-cloud weather brewing to the west seemed to be having a positive effect on our wind, the clouds disintegrating and exhaling grandly. It didn’t last though. About half way to Hanö, as though turning off the fan, the wind died abruptly to a gentle breeze, and the engine had to help, otherwise…. Eventually even the breeze went to sleep, and we boringly motored the rest of the way.
Hanö harbour has limited longside capacity, and we arrived probably last, so a bow-in tie-up had to be negotiated. This involves motoring gently forward until stopping within boathook-reach of an intended rope dangling tantalisingly from the quay. This is attatched at the other end to something solid about 15 meters away on the seabed. You lift it out of the water and pull on it. It is the stern anchor. You belay it to the stern somewhere. By this time the quay has retreated, so you motor forward again, letting out just enough of that stern rope so that you don’t bump. Rush forward with mooring rope in hand, jump ashore and tie onto something solid. Breath out. Another bow rope. Adjust everything such that there is a jumpable gap at the bow. Take in admiring comments from the neighbouring boat. (He could have helped, but maybe he came in earlier and was well into the wine. He maybe deserved it!).
As you see, Josin the jam in the bigger-boat sandwich
A very long and satisfying day. Tummy now rumbling hungry noises after only sourdough breadandbutter on the way. (Bad planning!). Hanö’s restaurant had closed, so a quick fryup, then bed.
Enough for now. (This time I’m definitely going to publish it).
Alls well.
Josin's 2025 cruise 