Month: August 2021

Back to Egersund, and then South and East.

A couple of days at home in Kongsberg was a pleasant change in lifestyle, a more comfortable bed being one! Also for a change, altitude! Took the car up the local mountain fairly early and enjoyed a gentle walk and sit-and-enjoy-the-view in the fresh mountain air, before the wind started to blow and changed the ambience.

A comfortable train ride back to Egersund the next day got me to Josin at about 9 and a detailed study of the various weather forecasts. Conclusion being that there was a weather window the next day if we started early enough to get round Lista, the westerly of the two bits of southern Norway which stick out and cause weather problems. OK. Alarm for 02:00, cuppa, (too early for breakfast), and away at 03:05. Very dark indeed. Night navigation skills a bit rusty, but modern electronic charts and screens helped awaken them. It is a very long time since I was away from the light «noise» of civilisation, and the night sky was a joyful kaleidoscope of stars, and probably planets, the brightest ones. All too soon dawn crept into the sky, the stars went home, and light increased.

Facebook groups are full of wonderful pictures of multicoloured sunsets, so these ones are unique,- a dawn!

And the sailing? Yes, as forecast, the wind gradually came in from the north and built up to sailable, and we rolled and pitched our way past Lista, and on in to Skarvøy, ( 58 03.9 / 006 54.5) a lagoon in a horseshoe island a few miles east of Farsund. A favourite spot, where I could relax and catch up on sleep in the bright sunshine.

Next morning, a leisurely start, and putter in to Farsund to fill up with diesel, water and food, with the intention of returning to Skarvøy until the wind moderated. Setting off back, the wind had already lessened, and by inspiration, I checked out the webcam at Lindesnes lighthouse. And Lo! It looked much calmer than expected, and a small boat made excellent progress against the wind and waves, which were going eastward. Plan B. Put on lots of layers of wool and the rest, and head out to sea and Lindesnes. It was rough, but not too. It was windy, but not too. Sailed at rushing-along speed and round the corner, where the seas moderated but the wind remained. All the way to Mandal, (58 01.5 / 007 27.1), in brilliant sunshine. Phew! The guest harbour was full, except for a just-big-enough spot for Josin. Several helped with the tying-up, all inquisitive about the conditions, «out there». I gave facts, and an opinion, and on that basis they all stayed put. That was two glorious days sailing, which lifted the spirits no end. And more to come.

Next morning, clear dawn skies and the same wind. A flagpole on the top of the local hill carried a pennant yesterday, but now a Norwegian flag, (must be someone important’s birthday), equally streaming in the wind. So, why wait, and we enjoyed another sailing morning to Kristainsand, (58 08.6 / 008 00.2). On the way the waves were much less, the northwest wind blowing offshore, and I rigged the windpilot for fun. Unfortunately the wind varied a lot in both strength and direction, and windpilot struggled. We zigged and we zagged, and we occasionally went straight on. No other boats in the vicinity, so no problem. Just fun. A third day of sailing. Smiles.

The guest harbour in Kristiansand is right next to an ancient iconic building, The Citadel, once a defence fort, now, this evening, a very loud play/happening. Hope is stops before beddybyes.

Written on my iPad, might look different.

Alls well.

Skudeneshavn to Egersund.

One attempt to leave Skudeneshavn resulted in a slightly ignominious return, the seas being too rough for comfort. Next day was much better, so we set our sights on Egersund, over the long stretch past Jærens Rev, exposed to the North Sea’s winds and waves, and even this time in a just-favourable wind direction. We motor-sailed, or we sailed, or we motored, and made very good speed due to a most favourable current which bore us along most welcomingly. Tied up in Kværnavågen, (58 28.3 / 005 54.9), a small inlet a few miles west of Egersund town, and well protected from the weather, which turned increasingly blow-ey.

Next day it continued to blow, so we stayed put and snoozed and read. Forecast was reasonable for the next stretch, round Lista and Lindesnes, the southern most point of Norway, so we started very early to make the most of it. Another ignominious return. I expected the conditions close to shore to be a bit bumpy with yesterday’s waves still prevalent, and reflections from the shore, but even well offshore it was still too uncomfortable so we turned and almost surfed back again to Kværnavågen. More reading and snoozing. And the forecast for the next few days was definitely not good, so we pootled in to Egersund and tied up safe on the guest pontoon. The skies were blackening rapidly, Quick. Up with the cockpit tent in a hurry, (more haste, less speed next time), completed just as the first heavy drops fell. And they continued to fall, in great quantities, and sought out all the leaky places.

What to do? Weather-window next tuesday, (now friday). Suggestion from a sensible friend was to take the train back to Kongsberg for the interim. So suggested, so decided. Seat available. Bestill.

Woke reasonably early and closed down the boat. Taxi to the station as it was bucketing down, (still got wet though), and now we are rolling along in comfortable seat in a tilting train. Weather improving gradually as we travel east, so there is hope for Kongsberg.

Attempted to take pictures of the incredible and varied views on the way, but every time the subject was suitable and the window not rain-covered, we plunged into a tunnel, (there are hundreds of them in this spectacularly vertical and valleyed landscape), so no pics this time. Difficult to adjust to the un-used-to speed too. From 5 knots (10 km/hr) to 50 is a bit of a strain!

Alls well,

LandfastJohn

From Tornes til Skudeneshavn

Another long way, in a persistent attempt to find the summer warmth. 300 nm in eight days, of motoring, some motorsailing and a little sailing. Yes, and it is getting generally warmer, in spite of the weather forecasters.

We didn’t get any help with either the fridge or the navigation charts while in Ålesund (62 28.4 / 006 09.3), but after a very thorough de-ice and clean of the fridge, it seemed to recover some of it’s cold, (threatened by the purchase of a Plan B cold box, which may save the day), so that will have to do until we get home, I hope!

From Ålesund we navigated the inner route, through majestically mountained fjords, on a photogenic day for once, and some gentle sailing when the wind blew in the right direction. The last pic is of the impressive pointed top behind Ørsta.

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To Larsnes (62 11.8 / 005 34.8), a convenient stop before rounding the very exposed peninsular of Stad. Spent a very pleasant evening with Asta and Hallvard, good friends of Jon Erik and Norma.

Then an early start to round Stad before the weather increased. This time round the rollers from the North Sea and the wind-driven local waves were not in too much conflict, so the passage wasn’t one of the bumpiest. Then on calm seas to Måløy ( 61 55.9 / 005 07.6) for a stop only for diesel, then onward past the near- vertical drop of the Hornilen mountain, difficult to photograph. It is apparently almost 1000 meters, straight down.

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To Florø (61 36.1 / 005 01.9) for the night. Guest harbour really full, so I was allowed to tie up at the day-visit pontoon, it now being after 7 o’clock and time over for day-trippers.

Left reasonably early next day, mostly boring motoring to Hardbakke, (61 04.4 / 004 50.1), another known harbour after several visits. A very-well protected harbour from all winds. But on the way, ah joy!, was contacted by Raymarine about the navigation charts. Many messages back and forth, with the conclusion that it wasn’t a problem with the display (Raymarine) but the datacard with charts, from Navionics, which finally managed to crash the display. Back to iPad and paper! The very helpful and patient Tom, from Raymarine helpdesk, had a colleague who was ex-Navionics, so they could tell me all about how to proceed, also by getting help at the Maritim boat-bits shop in Bergen

From Hardbakke to Strusshavn (60 24.2 / 005 11.4), outside Bergen. South of Hardbakke is Sognesjøen, (61 01.3 / 004 50.3) open to the North Sea and entrance to Norway’s deepest fjord, Sognefjord. We sailed, on a lasting southeasterly wind until entering the islands again. Very satisfying! Strusshavn is also a well-visited harbour either on the way north or south, very well-protected too. The long day meant that the Chinese restaurant was just shutting its doors when I got there, all hungry-like. No crispy duck this time, bother! The food shop was open though.

In to Bergen next morning, to the Maritim shop (60 23.1 / 005 18.6), in Puddefjord, the more industrial part of Bergen. Very helpful man took nearly half an hour of keyboard punching before he was successful in extracting a new chart out of the Navionics webshop on my behalf. I am sure that if I had tried, I would have given up in frustration. Afterward, I sat in Josin and watched spellbound while Navionics help’s Elisa took command over my Mac, to sort out the crashed card. Another half hour, crowned with success. I think she was just as relieved as I!

Next day to Haugesund (59 24.7 / 005 18.1), the “open fjord” way there, not through the islands. We suffered strong winds from almost all directions, these deep fjords causing much large-scale turbulence. At one point we had two reefs in both the main and genua sails, but making spanking progress! You can’t have it all! The forecast was for winds of mostly along the fjords in our direction, but it didn’t happen.

On the way in to Haugesund, we passed a maintenance facility of Equinor, Norway’s only major oil company. Who got the credit for numbering the sheds?

A new guest pontoon in Haugesund, a very much needed addition, but also full of course. Josin just fitted between two very large cabin cruisers.

Short, partially sailing in the sunshine next morning to Skudeneshavn ( 59 09.0 / 005 14.5), to await more suitable weather for crossing the next open stretch, Jærens Rev, to Egersund. Very low-lying agricultural land giving no shelter from the wind. There is much “offshore” activity in the Haugesund area, but times they are a changing:

Four transient supply boats in store, beside the venerable and very permanent Karmøy church.

On the way in to Skudeneshavn, the lighthouse on the point is perched on a convenient rock. Very conspicuous, and thus visible from long range.

Free day today to catch up on a few things, amongst others a clothes wash. Skudeneshavn has a very posh guest facility with modern machines, but an antiquated method of payment by COINS! I haven’t used cash for at least a year so had to make a trip to the local supermarket to get some. Then to navigate the system. To switch a machine on, you insert coins in the coin machine (choose the right one!), which tells you how much time you have bought. But how long does a wash take? Guess enough for two hours. Start machine. Come back in an hour and a half to check on progress, and it has finished. Kr 20 lost. Next machine is the drier. Same procedure, this time guessing short. One hour, machine stopped, clothes not even half dry. More coins, this time plenty? Almost, but not dry enough. Blow the bank of coins. Yes. Dryish. But I still don’t know how much I lost!

The success of the day has been getting the VHF to function. Much measuring of connections and sorting of cable-spagetti (labels on this time), confirmed the mast-top antenne to be dead, and a direct coupling of an antenne on the stern rail (borrowed from a little-used function), brought the VHF to life again. Lots of radio traffic. Mostly in non-understandable maritime language.

Alls well.