Josin’s cruise 2021 / 11

South again, from Harstad.

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A few pics of interesting mountains to ease the boredom of the next stages.

We left Harstad strategically timed to get through Tjeldsund, (68 34.0 / 016 31.4), so as to enjoy the current going the right way. It wasn’t nearly as strong as when going north, but helped, until we got to the south-going stretch (68 30.2 / 016 09.1), down to Lødingen, when it turned against. Tried sail-help here, but it didn’t last. Tied up at the visitors pontoon in Lødingen harbour, (69 24.9 / 015 39.7), after asking the water-scooter brigade to organise themselves a bit. Later three of them had fun. For them. Earplugs helped. Then they either got tired, too wet and cold, or ran out of fuel, and peace descended again.

Next day, wednesday 7th July already, promised SW wind and waves against later, so we started early. Motored all day, with occasional hopeful help from the genua. It was overcast and almost drizzly, and no good for pics, although plenty of mountains to the east to peer at through the gloom. A real boring, 68 nm day. Got to a favourite place, Hjelløya (67 32.8 / 014 39.1), where there is a public mooring buoy, unfortunately occupied, so I anchored. Of course it blew up during the night, right into the bay, and the growling of the dragging anchor woke me up, (must have been half-waiting for it). 3 am, in the rain and strong wind, is not the most congenial time, but two attempts to re-set the anchor didn’t succeed, so we rushed corkscrewing downwind in rolypoly waves the few miles to Kjerringøy harbour, (67 31.3 / 014 45.7), which was more than full, the blustery wind creating a string-orchestra in the rigging of all the cowering sailing boats. One place between outriggers was open, really? How odd. But…with a sign, “private”. Who is there to worry, or ask, at 4 am? Tie up. Sleep. After breakfast I asked everyone I could find, in still the rain and wind, as to who owned the spot, but had to give up. It appeared that this northern part of the harbour with a long row of sheds on the breakwater with boat spaces in front, was in separate ownership from the rest of the harbour. No owners present. Conscience salved. Leave.

Onward south, under slightly better conditions, but still against, the 20 nm to Bodø, arriving just after the timely, late morning rutine exodus of several motor-cruisers, leaving a space for Josin. (67 16.9 / 014 22.4). Spent the rest of the day re-rigging the newly-repaired gennaker, its bowsprit, roller furling with endless rope, and sheets. Looking forward to action tomorrow, if the forecast holds.

Saturday, (happy birthday Ida) dawned early, cloudless, and a gentle northerly wind. Very promising. At last some sailing. Yes. After only a motoring hour to head out into open water, up went the gennaker, unrolling with the usual gentle flapping until tamed, and we sailed. Shut down trusty engine. Peace at last!

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The wind was a perfect 10 to 12 knots, and we smoothed along at about 5 knots for several delightful hours, having to gybe occasionally to maintain course through the few islands until we neared the strangely-shaped headland of Kunna, (66 58.6 / 013 55.5), when out of nowhere the wind blew suddenly and strongly, and I had to get very busy. I achieved a rope wuzzle during the in-rolling, and the sail had to come down via the water again. Too many ropes for too few hands. No damage this time. Getting better at this! (I think I know the solution for avoiding the wuzzle next time).

Genua sail at exhilarating speed round Kunna and in to Støtt, (66 55.5 / 013 26.1), for lunch, recuperation, drying sail and a snooze. Later, a sailboat tied up in the spot beside me, another who had had gennaker problems, so we commiserated and compared techniques and notes. A little wiser! Later, the rain came pelting on the wind, so I gave up going to the restaurant. Pity. I’d been looking forward to that. Salmon and diverse veg at home instead.

Sunday 11th, another restaurant. Report later.

Alls well.