Month: July 2020

Saturday, 4th July. Nothing connected to the US of A apparent here. Nobody around, so heard no comments on my tying up in a private berth. Anyway, moved the boat to another one in the guest part of the harbour, where I could go ashore. Life seemed somnolent. Had expected more boat people, enough boats.

The guest harbour is quite a step away from the town center, (rather long and narrow), so the bicycle was extracted and set up. Now you should know, a lot of Narvik, like many towns in Norway, is built on a hill. This one is between the guest harbour and town. Uphill to the top, much pushing rather than pedalling, and whoosh most of the hard-earned altitude down to town. The tourist information office is in a magnificent new building as part of the open town center. It also houses the library and other cultural activities. Info lady was most helpful and had no difficulty in selling me a ticket to the Arctic Train, leaving this evening. Back to boat to eat, zizz, then equip with camera, drinkbottle, an apple and some chocolate, pushed and pedalled up and whooshed down the hill again, to the train station at the north end of town.

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The traindriver is from Senja, and had recently returned from driving the Airport Train in Oslo. Didn’t miss it at all.

The Artic Train uses the same line as the iron-ore trains from Kiruna in Sweden, and one came through just before we left. It seemed unending, clanketyclank, clanketyclank. Then it was our turn, all five of us passengers, exclusive!, with full attention from a smiling and informative hostess, conductor and guide. The line climbs gently all the way, snaking its way up the mountain, through many tunnels and, higher up, snowsheds. Must have been a mammoth task to construct. Early views are tree-restricted but the occasional sight is glimpsed. New bridge. It must be one of the longest suspension bridges in Norway, and shortens the time from the Evenes airport to town considerably.

The Arctic Train only goes as far as Bjørnefjell, just short of the Norwegian/Swedish border. 514 meters above sea level.

These pics are looking west to Norway, and east to Sweden: Only downhill from here

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Going back down again it was easier to take pictures: Everything majestic and very large. The standing stone has resisted all efforts to tumble it apparently.

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Then back to Narvik. That train ride gives one a quick appreciation of the terrain hereabouts, from the fjord, to impressive tree-clad mountains, to semi-bald tundra. There is a road there too, which is probably also quite a bit of sightseeing.

Pedalled and whooshed back to the boat, well satisfied with the day. Some food, then bed.

Alls well.

Another day with partially contrary winds, but at least the sea has calmed down and boat motion subdued.

Much thought and note taking, looking up of tide tables and port offsets, (how far behind a place is relative to a standard), adding and subtracting, and measuring distances were spent trying to time the passage through Ramsund , which is listed as having strong tidal currents. (Takk for regneark hjelpen Arne!).

So, confident that I had done it all correctly, we set off at 12:15, planning to get to the north end of Ramsund just after the current turned to south-going. We met one of historical maritime’s Queen of the Fjords, Anna Rogde, on the way out into Vågsfjord. Amazing how, with a lot of TLC from enthusiasts , these vintage vessels are kept in top working order. Pity she wasn’t sailing, that had been a real picture.

All went according to plan until we got to Tjeldsund and its bridge. Here were much stronger currents, against, that I had calculated, and progress was sufficiently slow that I got a bit worried. It turned out all right, as I was able to sneak along the west shore, avoiding the main current, and even finding south-going eddies. With trepidation at the ready we arrived at the markers and the shallow channel at the north end of Ramsund. Whadderuknow! Here was almost flat calm and a gentle tendency to south-going current. Calculations checked and trepidation subsided a little. Relief. Potter at cruise-speed, 5,5 knots, onward.

When we got to the bridge further south, and the narrowest and shallowest place, the current was much stronger, as predicted, but still quite docile compared to what it could have been apparently. More relief and no trepidation left. After that it was easy navigating and out into the wide Ofot Fjord. There was wind! Unannounced, from the south west, but not a lot. Up sails and shut off engine. Peace. Er….What speed? Just over 4 knots through the water, nearly a knot of current against. How far to Narvik? 22 nautical miles. Hmm. How late ought we to get there? Patience lasted about an hour before the wind decreased, and bedtime brought closer by starting the engine again, and we motor-sailed the rest of the way. Narvik Baatforening’s harbour was not small, and chock-a-block. Found an empty berth and tied up. Obviously a private berth. Well. As this was now nearly nine o’clock, and the place was deserted, I reckoned that this was ok until tomorrow. Quick meal and bed. Long and eventful day, very satisfied that the tide and current calculations had turned out right.

Narvik and a bit of sightseeing tomorrow. Sleep now.

Alls well

Monday was a bit of an anticlimax, after supersunday in a sailplane. But onward! Forecast was for deterioration in the weather, so decided to return to Harstad, and be boat-busy in the rain. Lovely sunshine and sailing in gusty and terrain-variable winds.

Vågsfjord, the last open fjord before Harstad, showed its teeth again, with short sharp waves pressed up by a northerly blow, on the nose of course. A very bouncy and wet two hours. Bit of a relief to tie up in my usual place at the end of the floating pontoon. The weather certainly did deteriorate, with rain and more wind, veered to the northeast. Vågsfjord now produced not only waves, but rollers which, in spite of a long floating breakwater, managed to curl sneakily round its end and press right into the guest harbour, causing much movement. Increased during the night to levels which made it impossible to sleep, what with the motion and tugging at the moorings, and things banging about in the boat. That is normally only experienced when sailing in hard conditions! Felt very grotty next morning, sleeplessness aggrified by activity and irritation. Tried to take a video, although the motion had quietened down a bit.

Motion lasted all day and only softened some in late evening, by which time nothing would prevent me from sleeping.

Yesterday, in by now only light drizzle, and much calmer waters, we pottered round to Harstad Marina, in the inner part of this large harbour, in search av blocks and ropes damaged in the drama. Also filled up with diesel, again. Feeling better.

Lighter skies today and less drizzle. Maybe better later, when we should head south again. Goal is Narvik, but need a stop on the way. Much studying of tide tables and head-scratching as to when to leave, to time the strong currents in the narrows ahead. Better go food-shopping, now its dry for a bit.

Alls well.