A relative short motorsail into Skjomen, a long, slightly winding, deep fjord between high mountains. The wind was northerly, and always aft and variable. After many gybes, I gave up the mainsail, it was then much easier gybing only the jib. Impressive mountains, and evidence of how they can threaten and create problems. A recent landslide, now cleared, had closed the road into the community in the inner end of the fjord:
I had intended to anchor there, but the wind was blowing straight onshore, and I was unsure of the anchor-hold, so we puttered out and north again, looking for a better place. Ended up at Ofoten Kystlag, (68 17.3 / 017 18.5), welcomed by Jan Eirik to take Josin’s ropes. He had seen us sailing in earlier, and though we might be back. Previously a station for experimental aquaculture, looking after the health of this region’s rather special milieu.
Lots of buildings, mostly hidden in the woods behind, and enormous amounts of superfluous equipment looking sad. What did they need three VW engines for? There was one large digging machine which should have been in a museum. How on earth did it get there? There is no road to this side of the fjord.
Woke early next morning to this, flat calm, cloudless, windless. It remained like this for most of the day, so I was able to enjoy a rather special day ashore.
Jan Eirik was busy sawing up and choppinig firewood when I climbed the road, (track), and he stopped and told me about this recently established addition to Forbundet KYSTEN, (The Coastal Society). Members mostly from Narvik. They had done an incredible job of clearing and fixing and maintenance, and the main building was now a very organised place, with kitchen and lounge.
Jan Eirik said I should take a stroll along the road (track, “three-ply”, very overgrown), to see the rock carvings, so I did, and saw this on the way:
Very pretty waterfall and stream, of crystal-clear, very cold, water. There were several derelict buildings from long-abandoned farms, this was one of the least derelict, but the raspberry bushes had survived in their abundance. So to the rock carvings, an isolated and surprisingly white, smooth rock, obviously ideal for the purpose:
The carvings are apparently best seen just after rain, and in early or late, slanting sunlight. This was in the middle of the fantastic day, so, bad luck! I could just about imagine that there has been carving activity, can you?
I wandered both ways along the road, (track), until other houses came into view. Well cared-for ex-farm buildings, now used recreationally. Remember, everything has to be transported by boat!
Early to bed, satisfied-weary after a rather special day, just as the sun disappeared behind a mountain. Suddenly chilly. Thankyou for an interesting stay Jan Eirik, and good luck for the future!
Woke to a disappointing, very chilly, grey and drizzly day, clouds down the mountainsides and wind still north. So, full protective clothing, and away. Goal not very challenging, to Ballangen, further out on the south side of the Ofotfjord. Got to the guest harbour at the bottom of the tide, and suspiciously shallow water inside the molo, and everywhere in the small harbour was occupied. Not very inviting. As it was still relatively early, we turned around and headed back out into the fjord and west, in very variable weather, rain, sailing wind, calm, counter currents and winds and waves, to Lødingen, (68 24.7 / 016 0.3). Largish harbour (with easily-accessible diesel!) and a small guest pontoon. Tied up next to Per, a fisherman on holiday from Skrova, (my intended next stop). Per gave me tie-up tips there, including that there was no electricity at the guest pontoon. Kindly said I could use his berth for the next day or two. Forecast not very promising for a sailor. We’ll see.
Josin's 2025 cruise 