The pause in flying activity caused a change of plan. Had to get back to Harstad sooner og later to pick up an electronic chart which was ordered earlier. So prepared to leave Sjøvegan, to return later. At the nightly half-awake task, I took a peep out of the window. This at 3 am:
So there was no excuse but to rise and shine, eat breakfast, and go. Amazing sounds in the stillness. A new one was a cascading waterfall on the other side of the bay, fed by the melting snow higher up:
It was almost sacriledge to disturb the profound peace by motoring along, but I went slowly to keep the decibels under control. No wind at all for most of the way to Harstad, so it was a bit boring amongst these high and steep mountains. Civilisation is well spread, but there are sometimes small communities which have clawed out a living in the past, and thrived, isolated except by rowing boat. Now there is a decent road there, with either a bridge or a ferry to somewhere else.
Managed a bit of sailing across the open Vågsfjord to Harstad and got there just as the town was beginning to buzz. Out with the bike and pedal to chartshop. Not come yet? Oh dear. What time does the post come? “Between 11 and 12. May not come today”. (Now ten thirty).” We’ll deliver it when it comes”. Very serviceminded! Back to boat, (fresh sourdough bread on the way), with the prospect of whiling away the day. How? New plan. Start with coffee and fresh bread and lots of butter, yum! But Lo! Just after 12, a call to say that “he’s on his way”, and sure enough a friendly, bright-yellow-jacketed man knocked on the boat and handed over an envelope and good wishes. Out with the laptop and carry out the procedure. Half an hour later, chart installed in chartplotter, and all systems go. Nuther new plan. OK. Goal Tromsø. Trip to food shop. Fill water. Now too late to go very far, so we puttered to a little island, Kjøtta, about five nm away, which looked to have a sheltered bay for anchoring. Yes indeed. (68 52.6 / 016 42.04). Beautiful evening to enjoy the P&Q, birds, and sounds.
Woke again at very early, fantastic morning sunshine, so decided again to leave. Forecast was for a SW breeze which should waft us along nicely. Left at 05:15. Back out into Vågsfjord, and the 10 to 12 kt breeze. Up sails and at last enjoy some proper sailing, wind pilot doing the steering very well. Not very long in paradise. Wind gradually increased, blowing up short, sharp waves, on the quarter. Soon one reef. This was definitely not forecast. Then second reef and half-roll foresail. Rushing and rolling and crashing along at max speed. Exhilarating, but rather tiring. Into next fjord, and the wind disappeared. Just like that! These mountains have a decisive effect on the wind. Back to motoring, and coffee, and sourdough sandwiches. Finnsnes appeared at about 12, and as it was so early, I decided to carry on, and on, and on. Bits of sailing, most motoring and sightseeing. How about the giant’s toothbrush?
This was 23 June, Midsummer’s Eve, when folk gather at the shoreline, barbecues get fired up (down south folk enjoy a swim, but not here, water temp 11 degrees), and giant bonfires get lit, to mark the summer solstice. I saw several, this one must have at least had som old tractor tyres in it to make such a smokescreen:
By then I was optimistically eyeing getting to Tromsø in time to find a restaurant, but then we got to Ryøstraumen, with still a couple of hours to go. When your boat, engine at full chat, does 6,1 knots through the water, and the water is going the other way at 4,5 to 5 knots, progress is incredibly slow, and one has plenty of time but no opportunity to admire the view, and people enjoying watching us, close by. The water swirled and rushed, needing very close attention to steering. Gulls and terns were having a diving ball, with the turbulence stirring up fish, totally ignoring us. Good luck to them, I’m too busy to take a picture. It took seemingly ages to get into calmer water, and the counter-current, though less, was still significant out into the open fjord, so progress was much slower than hoped. Tried sneaking my way out of the mainstream by steering close inshore, but it was still 1 to 1,5 knots against. Note to self: Find out about tides and currents and timing, before returning!
So into Tromsø, the major city here north. Lots of building activity and colourful blocks of flats and office buildings. Hotel in the center like a ship, overlooking the guest harbour. Not many guestboats, but plenty of other vessels of all kinds. It was nearly 7 o’clock by now, so by the time we had tied up, chatted to the other two sailing boats, (thankyou for helping with ropes, where’s the diesel?), and hoisted the cockpit canopy, (rain forecast, but not here yet), muggins was fairly out of energy, so no restaurant. Instant tour-meal. Boiling water into the orange bag, stir and spoon-eat. Nourishing, quick, but not exactly gourmet. Satisfied with the day. Zonk. Sleep.
Today, overcast, but not cold. A trip later to the tourist info office. Must walk, (or maybe take the bus), over the bridge to the Artic Cathedral. Seen once before, which left a strong impression. Might take the funicular up the mountain, the view of the city must be amazing.
Take it easy though. Long day yesterday, restitution important.
Alls well!
Josin's 2025 cruise 