Nordskot to Skutvik wasn’t very interesting. Frustrating because, whichever way Josin pointed, the wind was always against, even when the prevailing wind blew across the fjord and mountains. No sailing, again! Skutvik wasn’t open yet. Very quiet. An early night.
Early morning strong sunshine had me up early, before 6. Clear water had me tempted, but I resisted. (11,5 degrees). Forecast good for sailing later, so, through the pre-voyage list, and away before 8.
Investigated a Plan B place on the way, bak Hopøya, perfectly sheltered bay, narrow entrance. To be remembered. Pos 68 08,0N 15 24.5E.
Tried to take a panoramic pic of the “Lofoten Vegg”, but succeeded in only a normal one. Still a long way away though.
Then, as the day got warmer, yes a good deal warmer, and the northerly wind died away, strange sights appeared, in mirages:
Just south of Lødingen, on the west side of the fjord, “nine sisters” basked in the sun: (beats Nordland’s famous Seven!).
Then in to Lødingen. Not very inspiring, and as it was still only about two o’clock, and that the promised southerly wind had started to waft its way, I decided to carry on, with Harstad as a distant goal, and several possible stopping places on the way.
We motor-sailed, then sailed, most of 10 nm up the gradually-narrowing fjord, until it turned east, into Tjeldsund, whereupon the wind turned east too. These fjordwinds. Never reliable and friendly. No wonder almost all pleasure boats are motor. Tjeldsund is relatively narrow, (for a fjord), and also relatively shallow in places, so there are strong currents. We had experienced a gentle following current up the previous fjord, and as the tide hadn’t changed, expected a following current here too. But No! suddenly 2 to 2,5 knots against. Good to have a powerful engine. The current isn’t constant, it swirls and swerves, making for exciting steering, (autopilot couldn’t quite cope). Then wind aft again, but not quite enough to stop the engine. Fjord turned north again, and equally unexpectedly a strong following current rushed us along. I do not understand! Tides is trikky! Then into open waters, and round small islands and in to Harstad harbour. Enormous. Where’s the guest harbour? Just wait a while, as it is evening, and maybe another boat knows where. Yes. We followed. Lots of space, even for a saturday evening, Parties on cruisers. Fishing men on the quayside. Bicycles and prams on the promenade. Fast ferry arriving and disgorging the last passengers of the day. Restaurant at the end of the pontoon. Why not? Fish and chips. Good too!. Back to boat and straight to bed. Zonk asleep.
Long day. Much to see and experience. 12 hours on the move, and nearly 70 nautical miles. Maybe a personal day-best.
Took it easy today. Domestics. Office work. Almost drizzly weather. No walk, no sightseeing. Touristinfo office shut. Excellent Thai takeaway on the quayside. Tomorrow will visit the local Raymarine experts, to get help with my erratic AIS and others.
Sleep now. Do I dream of a sleeping mountainVampire, or of a creeping monster with enormous white teeth?
Alls well.
Josin's 2025 cruise 