6) Vegstein to Hjartøy to Sandnessjøen to Selsøyvik

A late start from Vegstein when the wind turned roughly south, but not enough to sail, therefore motoring north through the myriard of islands, large, small, and very small. Legend has it that the gods who created the mountains hereabouts, got there hands all crumbly, and when they dusted them off, all these islands were created. Enough of them anyway. Charming story. Navigation is easy with well-placed posts and markers and lanterns. No traffic, except for the odd ferry plodding its rutine way from here to there.

Landscape here is both huge and magnificent, with “The Seven Sisters” dominating. Even clearer relief with the rest of snow decorating.

Then into the lagoon at Hjartøya, a very well-sheltered spot. (66 00.5 / 012 24.9). One boat tied up at the very small jetty near the entry, its crew busily ashore with a smoky grill. Further in, at the anchoring area, a hindrance to sea room. Another small floating pontoon tied with thick bluegreen ropes to both sides of the bay, with no indication of how deep they were in the middle. So, increase speed, stop engine and gear into neutral, hoping it will fold to minimum shape. Over the sunken ropes and no contact. Phew! Drop anchor, ensure good hold and take an evening, it now being nearly 9.

After a calm night, with no disturbances or large wind changes, we headed to Sandnessjøen, a couple of hours away, to, yes, again, fill up with diesel. But also, much more interesting, just over the square from the guest pontoon, is a very active fish shop. Hot fishcakes for lunch and a succulent slice of halibut for dinner later. Yum.

Then on again, this time with a sailing breeze on the quarter! Lasted all of two hours, before getting confused by the mountains and retiring, useless. Stow sails, with a sigh. The day had started quite warm and fairly sunny, but was now gradually deteriorating, obviously a front on its way in from the west. Got chilly-er, and wetter, with that sort of rain which isn’t really visible, but nevertheless penetrating. On with all-weather clothes with wool under. Better now.

The countryside hereabouts is very vertigal in a bumpy sort of way, with many small communities on the flat bits at the edges, all of them with harbours og course, and some of them with guest facilities. On our way we diverted a bit and took a peek into a few to see if they were suitable as a Plan B harbour. Promising, but without contact with the locals, busy elsewhere.

Onwards and wndy-er, head wind of course, until the “milestone” of The Arctic Circle, at 66 33,5 N, passed at 17:48, just before arriving thankfully at sheltered Selsøyvik, (66 34.5 / 12 58.8). Hurried tie-up and erection of the cockpit tent, (first time this season), to keep the elements at bay. Hunker down. Shore power on. Heater on. OK.

Quiet night, no disturbances. The season hasn’t started yet! Wind still northerly and too much to battle against, so stay put here for the day. Halibut for dinner, as I was a bit too weary yesterday to prepare it.

No pictures unfortunately, too dark and cloudy, and/or rainy, to risk cameras.

Otherwise—- Alls well.