Month: August 2019

Waited in Tallakshavn for the rain to stop at mid day, and then set off at about one o’clock. Decided to choose the outside route to Åsgårdstrand, as there was a better chance of enjoying the predicted wind. Good choice! Close hauled until through the bits needing careful navigation, then easing the sheets past the inside of Færder island, and then downwind for home. Wind increased, as predicted, to between 20 and 25 knots, and we rushed along in cloudless sunshine, enjoying life on the ocean wave to the full. Only the odd ferry or so, otherwise the fjord was mine until we got to Slagentangen and the vessels waiting for the refinery.

Berthed at 17:30 after what must be a record-speed trip in perfect weather. What an end to a summer cruise!

Started the summer cruise on the 2nd June, with Margaret aboard, until she travelled home from Bergen on 4th July. Our goal was Shetland, but the weather was definitely not suitable for passage over the North Sea, so we chickened out and flew, and had a splendid three days there, in remarkably fine weather. Lucky us! That period was otherwise unfortunately characterised by chilly and wet weather, so Norway was not at its best for her. Then solo further north to The Coastal Society’s gathering in Trondheim in July, when the weather at last turned summer’ly, explored a bit of the Trondheimsfjord area, then gradually homeward again, through mostly familiar places. Getting so used to the route that I almost don’t need navigation aids.

Wonderful to have Kari aboard from Kristiansand to Sandefjord. Excellent crew, (who didn’t do all the washing-up), and most enjoyable company.

Much motoring, as seems normal now, with the occasional sailing wind in a usable direction. Altogether 1 500 nautical miles and 88 days. The only “disaster” was a dying toilet system, which fortunately only happened in the last few days, otherwise only minor bothers. A pretty problem-free time. Approved!

Looking forward to local sailing and the occasional tuesday’s regatta.

Kari joined in Kristiansand, and has since written so many good posts in her facebook site that she has taken on the role of author. But…. it is all in Norwegian, so for those of you who need a little bit of language help, google translate should do the trick. But first the posts. Click on the sentence below, and there is a link sign to further click on. Did that work? Yes? OK good. Enjoy! And if it didn’t? Bother. Did any pictures appear?

Daughter Karis Facebook page

We are now in Stavern Havn, waiting for the rain to move somewhere else, and, if YR.no is right, a suitable weather gap will appear after lunch so that we can potter round to Sandefjord where Kari will disembark. Poor lass, she hasn’t experienced any sailing at all, but she seems to have enjoyed life on the water.

Alls well.

Yes, tuesday’s winds were good, both in direction and strength. We rocked and dipped and rolled along, with 15 to 20 kts wind on the quarter, and a strong following current, which was fun for a while, but the movement got a bit boring. The seas couldn’t make up their minds as to which way to run, so there was conflict, but Josin took it all with aplomb. Not a good day for those with a gentle tum. Luckily I’m unaffected. Sailing directions recommend keeping close to the shore when going south east, to avoid the north west-going current. We experienced the exact opposite, fortunately, so the course set was directly to Lista.

Plan A was to utilise the favourable conditions for as far as possible, round Lindesnes too, but as the seas were still uncomfortable and rather tiring even after having rounded Lista, we scuttled into the shelter of the islands and tied up to a jetty in a favourite bay on Skarvøy, east of Farsund. Remarkably sheltered spot, where I enjoyed the evening sunshine before an early night.

This sunny morning invited to a quick dip in the clear water, thermometer showed 15, brrr, but one does feel much rejuvenated afterward, doesn’t one? Sailing conditions were about the same as yesterday, somewhat less wind, but same seas, so keeping the sails filled in spite of the boat’s motion meant tacking downwind, rather to the surprise of two other sailing boats, both of whom had decided to motor. Easier! We all ended up i Mandal, me last!

Mandal has, right by the end of the guest quay, an absolutely fantastic sea food shop. Extensive variety of both raw and prepared produce all delicately presented. Steady steam of customers. So, crab claw and shrimp for starters and flounder to follow. Yum! Stappa!

Weather forecast for tomorrow is not at all clement, so up with the cockpit tent, on with the cabin heater, brew countless cuppas and read a book. Hopefully onward on friday.

Alls well

Sad news of the funeral of a near neighbour on friday, so parked Josin in the guest harbour in Egersund and took the train home to Kongsberg.

As the weather forecast for rounding Lista and Lindesnes in the next few days is definitely not good, and that there is another event at which I ought to attend in Skyttertunet on sunday evening, I have decided to stay and travel back to Egersund on monday. Forcast for tuesday is good, so I hope it holds.

Pause.

John

Today had it all. Early start for a 50 nm long day. Bright early morning sun. Calm waters and a gentle breeze for the first hour. Gathering clouds and rain and lots of wind-in-the-right-direction. Heavier rain clearing, leaving the wind but choppy seas. Max boat speed with sails driving us through the waves. Wind vane steering coupled in and coping with the demanding conditions. Clouds receding over Stavanger, leaving us in bright sunshine. (Can you see the helicopter?)

Sea current between one ond one and a half knots almost all the way, giving a remarkable, and maybe record, speed over ground. What a day!

Alls vey well!

Winds looked promising, so the goal was Haugesund, but although the wind was pushing us along nicely, it started to rain, and continued. Wind and rain aft, no hiding place! Although my splendid wet weather gear is remarkably waterproof, I didn’t have winter woolies on, so got gradually colder. Then visibilty got much worse, which made things more exciting. Whatever, Mosterhamn looked inviting on the chart plotter, so we turned sharp to starboard rounding the headland, and re-visited Mosterhamn. Haven’t been there for some years, and was happy to find a short pontoon with just space for Josin on one side. Cabin heater on full blast and warmth returned. Rain continued, still so no exploring. Read a book. Cook and eat supper. Study weather forecast for tomorrow, promising winds again, but without the rain. Sleep.

Tried to get an early start this morning, but somehow the waking-up process didn’t cooperate. Never mind, with good winds we will sail far. At first, no wind. Motor. Then a little wind, so sail out and helping. Then no wind again. Then a heavy rain shower, not part of the plan, which suddenly brought 20 kts wind on the quarter. Wheeee! Seas got up pretty quickly though, and the rest of the way to Haugesund was uncomfortable, and coffe-spilling.

We rushed through Haugesund, with a strong following current too, past many tied-up and inactive supply boats and oil rigs. Depressing sight. Well south of Haugesund the clouds began to clear and the last couple of hours were near-perfect. Keeping close to the shore meant we had all the wind pushing us along, without the waves. Quiet in Skudeneshamn, only one sailboat, German. Later on a French, very advanced sailboat came in. Family of four, two very enthusiastic boys, 8 and 10 maybe, who peppered me with machingun rapid questions and information. Maman had to translate. Embarrassing!

Forecast for tomorrow is usable, after which strong southerlies and rain, so the goal is Egersund, which is a nice place to hide for a day or two.

Alls well.

Many days in between. Not inspired to write, sorry!

The northwesterly blew well in Sandhavn, shrieking in the rigging and rocking Josin and me, so I went for an exploratory walk, eschewing the bicycle. Northwards, along a gravel road, past derelict buildings and one recently restored, wild raspberry bushes, (yum), road then became a track which gradually narrowed from two to one and disintegrated, into stones, pebbles, grass and heather, almost at the NE point of the island, where the wind gusted very blustery, so I retreated to a sheltering boulder and admired the view. Gannets. Several of them. Fishing industriously. Dive-bombing into the lee water behind wave-calming rocks. With success. Didn’t have the long-lens camera with me. A pity. Very peaceful spot, the only movement being waves, birds and a few torn clouds.

Next morning dawned even calmer than the weather forecast, so an early start, to experience a long and very boring and unexciting day, all the way for motor with an occasional help from a sail, to Florø, past an uneven Statt, and then via the “outside lane” as it was so calm, missing out Måløy and magnificent mountains.

Florø has a very impressive museum on the other side of the peninsular, so we pottered round there next day and tied up at the very small pontoon where there wasn’t really room. Very sheltered, so no problem. Museum very calm and quiet, with excellent displays of historic Florø, people and activities. The craftsmen’s tools, wow! Many old boats, but unfortunately few explanations as to sort, usage or wherefrom.

Awakened next morning by the screechings of slow-flying herons and the squawking of a skein of high-flying geese. (A bit early? For migration I mean). Sunny day. More motoring. Out southwest to Bulandet. Guest tie-up outside the diesel pump and the restaurant. The one for Josin and the other for me. Fish and well-over-spiced chips. Hohh. Water! Plenty day left, so after a short post-prandial snooze, we continued south, with some help from a sailing wind, to familiar Hardbakke, full of large motor cruisers. Supper and sleep. Forecast was for a sailing NE wind. Dreamed thus.

Not disappointed. Outside the islands a persistent breeze wafted us along in bright and warming sunshine. Marvellous! Almost all the way to the anchorage at Uttoska. Along the way, impressive Cumulo-nimbus clouds developed:

But luckily didn’t reach us to drench us. The mooring buoy at Uttoska was occupied, so we anchored, in good holding, in preparation for the coming gale. The little bay is well sheltered, so the trees around it took most of the blast, and I slept safely and undisturbed by the wind or anchor-alarm. Flat calm next morning, sunshine, and 19 degrees in the water. First time I’ve been in long enough to swim a circuit of the boat. Very refreshing!

Then onward, motoring again in a tantalisingly inadequate wind, to also familiar Strusshamn. Forecast was for rain. Correct. Proper Bergen’s quality. Probably for tomorrow as well. The cockpit tent is up, and rain-sound is comforting. Cabin heater going gently and coffee mug at my elbow.

Alls well. JosinJohn

Not having much luck today. A nice sail from Raudholmen until we rounded the corner and met the wind, then it was motor the short distance to Larsnes. What? No pontoon? What was left was high, short and had place for one boat on one side, occupied by a large Danish ketch, with the skipper snoring on the aft deck, and the ambulance boat on the other. Short pontoon on the other side of the tiny bay, so tried that. Only 1,5 m of water, and this was at high tide, so not a place to stay. Short walk to the food shop and back, and then a cuppa and a think. Where to? Only place closer to Statt was Sandhamn, which looked promising, so off we pottered, now into a fairly strong wind and short, sharp waves. Crash and splash to Sandhamn. Two long pontoons, few boats. Plenty of space. Tied up. Oh dear. Pontoon looks a bit dubious, the outer end rotten. No water in the hose, and no power. Went ashore to investigate. “Rosenlund” the place is called. Notice: “Restaurant and facilities closed due to sale of premises. August 2017”. Since when the place has gone downhill. But the rose garden around the deserted parking space is in full bloom, though needing a bit of a prune. Nature cannot be denied, for better or for worse.

What to do? Check weather forecast. 25 knots of north westerly wind for the rest of today and tomorrow, reducing to 15 knots monday. So, no rounding of Statt before then. Stay put? Not any choice really. Closest civilised place is Fosnavåg, upwind and away from Statt. Not a good choice. So, Stay here in Sandhamn. Investigate the island’s attractions, (at least the tourist map on the restaurant wall was readable), by bicycle tomorrow.

Not the best of days. No pictures, no. Dilapidated, depressed buildings would not entertain. Otherwise all is well.

Holidaytime means that useful people like boat-crane operators are away doing their holiday thing. Several vague answers, like “it might be possible next week” were not encouraging. Took time to find a definitve answer. Finally there was a place a little distance away where the voice on the phone was most helpfull. Harald. Mausavåg Bil og Båt. Visited, to check it out. Rather scruffy, but equipment seemed solid. And Harald oozed competence. Other sailboats on the hard, so sailboat no problem. Friday 10:30 when the tide was suitable, OK? OK, we’ll be there. Thursday evening a gentle potter to Mausavågen, tucked away in a shelterd bay. Crane pontoon occupied by several small runabouts, so we had to tie up to a spare, rather wobbly pontoon, but as it was flat calm, no worries.

This was the monster to lift out Josin: Different, but effective.

And up and over the hard, to hang conveniently while I worked. Very strange that so many of the anodes had trouble, the shaft one completely dissappeared. Not happened in all these years before. Mystery. Unexplainable. So, scrub and wash very clean, and the new ones, expeditely sent from Seatronics, carefully installed with plenty Loctite on the threads. Job done:

Hull remarkable clean. Only some grass on the rudder, and a little along the waterline. A quick wash, with a very powerful high-pressure washer, made almost new again. Josin lowered back into the water and tied up. Tools away. Office. Pay. Thankyou and shake hands for excellent work. Welcome back. Well maybe. Another possible place for winter storage.

Hot sunshine. Perspiration. Lusj. Relax. Snooze a whole hour. Oops! Bit late to reach Larsnes now. Motored out into Vartdalsfjord and sailed and motored in very conflicting conditions, to Raudøyholmen, at the inlet to Ørsta fjord, intending to anchor, but found a mooring buoy, all waiting to be used, instead. Supper. Bed. Day over.

What with one thing and another, progress-less days going by, and not having heard from Stjørdal, and northerly winds predicted by three different sources for the next week or ten days, I have decided to wend my way home, and not leave Josin hereabouts for the winter. Maybe next year, we’ll see.

Larsnes next, and Statt after that. Alls well.