Month: June 2019

Tananger to Skudeneshavn to Bekkjarvik

We decided we had deserved a meal out after our strenuous trip from Egersund, and from strong recommendations from a local, sampled the fish soup at the nearby Hotel Hummeren, just at the end of the harbour. One somnolent small lobster in the glass tank in the entry hall was not too promising but the soup was worth waiting for. Just what we needed. Back to the boat and crash.

Monday morning and a beautiful day, light breeze and cottonwool clouds, and a blackbird singing its heart out in the enormous tree almost overhanging the quay. Took a gentle walk up to the Pilot House, but no-one at home, so wandered along the quay out to where the two pilot boats were tied up. Luck was with us. The same crew as yesterday. Pictures requested and transferred. “Thanks”. “No problem”. (See previous blog).

South west wind, 10-12 kts, what more could we ask for to waft us the short distance to Skudeneshavn. Motored through the labyrinth of Kvitsøy just for fun, took in the sails just at Skudenes’ sheltered harbour entrance, and puttered in past picturesque buildings to the inner harbour, where all was peace and quiet in the holiday sunshine. Few boats. Few people. Town square’s benches sparsely utilised. We wandered all along the serpentine narrow street of the old town out to the “look at the view” bench. We viewed. We returned. Not even the ice cream parlour was open. Back to boat and chill out.

Tuesday morning, more sunshine! But, a northerly wind almost on the nose up the Karmøy Sound did not encourage close-hauled sailing. Another sailboat tried it and gave up after an hour or so. Much, pay attention, ships traffic in to Haugesund. Quayside not very fender-friendly, and dauntingly high above Josin’s deck level to get ashore. Dinner was one of the succulent passage stews which M had made, and now needed non-passage eating.

Lots of placards and other ads for SildaJazz, much enjoyed in an earlier year, unfortunately at the beginning of august. Much of my kind of jazz. Hmm.

Relatively early start from Haugesund, in light rain and no wind, motoring again, all the way to Bekkjarvik, a nice sailing wind over the last fjord if we hadn’t been going north. Passed by the enormous charter Motor Yacht, “Aster”. Very posh and gleaming. Blocked the entry to the inner harbour temporarily while settling. The passengers probably attracted to Bekkjarvik Hotel to the restaurant of a Beaucouse d’Or-winning chef. We ate huge hamburgers next door, attended by scruffy sparrows.

A film crew busily active, now trying to capture the efforts of a sartorially attired, but incompetent crew rowing a six-oars rowing boat. But nobody fell in. I’m sure I recognised the guy trying to steer in the stern.

Strusshamn near Bergen tomorrow. Alls Well.

Margaret and SailorJohn

Blog 2, 2019, Egersund to Tananger.

We left Egersund as planned, all optimistic, into what were predicted OK conditions: SW wind 15 knots, overcast and rain showers, clearing later. Yes. But, unfortunately, the weather gods and Yr.no didn’t quite agree. Wind SW, yes, but much more than 15 kts, up to 30 kts by the end. So, we didn’t achieve Skudeneshavn, but retired, rather subdued and weary, into Tananger, wet and a bit battered. Sailed all the way on just genoa, rolled some in later, and rushed along at hull speed, surfing down the waves. Autopilot coping well. On the way in, a Pilot Boat on the way home rushed up alongside, slowed down and filmed us bouncing and wallowing and frothing along. Must try and get a copy. They are moored just along the quay.

Today is a lovely calm, sunny day, and we are tidying up and drying out, and planning.

Looking at various weather predictions in the North Sea, they are changing for the worse, with much stronger winds, and earlier, and as we do not want another, much longer passage like yesterday, we have chickened out, (Margaret’s phrase, bless her, and justified), and have put in place Plan B.

Shetland was our goal, and we will get there, by air instead of sea, and have booked on Loganair from Bergen on saturday. So far nothing else arranged.

More later. Alls well.

Margaret and SailorJohn.

Blog the first, this year.

The start was delayed, due to…… Haven’t we heard that before?

Margaret arrived on schedule on the 24th May, and after a family party we were supposed to leave shortly after, Josin in top fettle, except……

My super specs fell apart. Helpful neighbour delivered them after we had left, (weekend) to Interoptik in Kongsberg. Who reported gleefully later that they had found a replacement frame and would send them to their shop in Stavanger.

Upgrading the software on the Raymarine equipment and instruments, like a good little boy, left the autopilot non-functioning. Yes I had read the instructions, and didn’t have any problems last year with the same procedure, so what to do? All expert contacts were busy with the Skagen Regatta preparations, and the next day, a thursday, was Ascension Day, so nobody worked that, or friday or saturday. Next working day, the monday, we were tied up at 8 am at the nearest source of expertise, Serco, and with a promise of immediate attention. It happened! Three men, one expert, one under instruction, and me of course, spent two hours before almost everything worked again, including the vital autopilot. Waved the plastic and with heartfelt thanks, proceeded on our way.

It rained. Motored southward with the wind on our nose, then through Vrengen, with the sails up for ten minutes until Margaret’s Josin cap blew off in a gust, and we doubled back and found it. Then out into the Tønsberg Fjord to short, sharp waves and wind against, the engine purring away nicely. To Sandefjord. Wet. New points of leakage had appeared, luckily not over bedding. (To the initiated: No, leaks still dribble down the mast!).

Tuesday we successfully cured the leaks under the genoa sheet runners with copious Sikaflex, and then went shopping for sailorboots for Margaret, and a replacement fender for Josin, before dressing up and enjoying an absolutely delicious meal at Brygge 11, baked steinbit plus,plus.

Up betimes wednesday and away down the coast, all the way to Lillesand, 81 nm, mostly on engine. Long day, to try and make up some lost time, arriving in the gloaming with nav-lights ablaze. Awoke next morning to brilliant sunshine, but it didn’t last long before the thunderclouds rolled up and doused us running between shops, before diving into a cafe for a coffee and a sustaining sticky bun.

Re-fuelled next morning, and away for another motoring day, to Farsund, only 65 nm, again arriving late. Consumed hot peasoup and slept.

Friday dawned bright and sunny, with a sail-able wind, no less, and we motored out into the north-west-flowing current past Lista. To Egersund. Wonderful to sail again, close hauled all the way until the wind veered instead of backed, and a bit of help from the engine the last half hour.  Nice welcome from the harbourmaster who took our ropes but struggled a bit with his spiel in english.

YR.no is usually a very reliable weather forecasting site, but so far this trip it hasn’t been quite so good regarding wind direction and strength.

New poggle: Rang Interoptik in Stavanger this morning, saturday, to hear that Norges Post had not managed to deliver. What now? Sunday tomorrow, then Whitmonday. Possibly specs on tuesday. Weather window for crossing the North Sea opening monday, closing thursday. Solution: Let Interoptik keep specs until we get back at the end of the month, and buy several pairs of cheapo reading glasses.

Plan A. Leave Egersund early tomorrow, Josin refuelled, clothes washed and stores re-provisioned, with a predicted following wind and current to Skudeneshavn, which is our startingpoint for North Sea crossing on monday. 200 nm to Lerwick, Shetland. Probably take about 36 hours. Little wind to begin with, northeasterlies later. Perfect. Margaret has made a very large pot of succulent beef and vegetable stew, and we bought sliced bread and other sustaining foods easily dealt with and consumed.

Alls well with Margaret and SailorJohn