Month: August 2017

Wednesday 9th august. Evening.

Sorry folks, long time no blog.

Back in Lossiemouth, after a (sort of) circumnavigation of Scotland. 41 days, 700 nautical miles. Sailing sometimes, motoring at others. Weather, variable, but better than it could have been apparently.

The trip from Wick today was rather special. Left at the top of the tide, with a gentle south-going current to help, and an increasing NW-ly wind to fill the gennaker and blast us along at grinning speed. Past the oil installations and enormous windmill being installed with gigantic cranes, in very good visibility, they all looked quite lego-like on the horizon, until black clouds and rainstorms chased us and showered us and changed the wind strength and direction and confused the seas. Much movement which kept on collapsing the sails and resulted in the inevitable motoring for the last couple of hours. A very variable day, but fast, and we tied up just in time for tea.

Since the last blog from Westray, we sailed and bounced (these currents certainly cause choppy seas), to North Ronaldsay, with the intention to experience “The Sheep Festival”, with local music, food and dance. But alas no. The harbour, on the south end of the island was inadequately protected from the wind and swell, the jetty was very boat-unfriendly (only for the ferry), and the mooring was a long way from a stony beach. After a serious evaluation and a cuppa, we decided to retreat un-festvalled, and seek anchorage on the way to Kirkwall. Against a goodly wind and the three knot current, progress was both wet and rough until we entered Calf Sound on Eday. There two “visiting yachts” moorings and the choice was ours. A bay very well sheltered from the wind and swell, but the current still swirled back and forth. A safe place.

Next morning, back to the tide and current info, to find the way to Kirkwall. Nice day. Clear skies and warm sun. Sailed south in a gentle westerly the first couple of hours until we turned west and had to motor. Tried the northern route round Shapinsay. Much stronger current against than we’d calculated. Try the southern route instead. Likewise, bother, but now the die was cast, and we crept past the interesting west, lots of bird-cliffs, and south, beaches, coastline of Shapinsay, and in to Kirkwall, with famous Christian Radich, magnificent and resplendent lording it on the outer pontoon, in time for lunch. Tied up between a large German motor cruiser and a large motor catamaran from Bergen. Looked a bit incongruous, but near the ramp, fuel and WiFi.

In the afternoon, with camera at the ready, out to view Christian Radich. Too big and too close to photograph really, and visitors were not welcome at the moment. Nice chat in Norwegian with one of the tee-shirted crew at the end of the end of the gangplank.

And then a gawp at a most unusual sight which arrived. A 1930’s vintage three-liter, six-cylinder open-topped Lagonda, in concours black and shining chrome condition, with proud owner answering questions and telling the story. I took pics of the engine.

We were greeted by our now-friend Hans, from Shetland, whom we had met in several places before, and whose company we had enjoyed. A convivial evening with him in the bar of the nearest hotel, the restaurant was full, but the menu was apparently the same and the food was good.

A plague in several places we had been were the boy racers. Loud-exhaust, hard-accelerating, tyre screeching cars circulating the town and the harbour walls until late. Kirkwall was the worst. But damped for a while by the presence of a police car. A short chat with the yellow-clad policewoman- “Yes, they do make a lot of noise, don’t they”, smile. Ah well. Earplugs to the rescue.

That’ll do for now. More tomorrow.

Alls well.

Its thursday afternoon. Raining. Windy. No activity outside. Cockpit canopy up. An indoor day. Heater going. Coffee at the elbow. OK.

No pics with this, as the internet connection is occasional, GPRS standard and can really be described as snails pace.

The trip here from Stromness was again planned to take advantage of the tides and currents, and if the wind had played kind, it would have been a very pleasant sail up the coast. We were “spat” westward out of Hoy Sound in a 3 knot current, and found the predicted westerly wind when turned northward. But after the first exhilarating couple of hours, the wind gradually died, leaving many waves over which we pitched and rolled with the engine doing its reliable thing. Sea birds to watch. Sharp lookout kept for fishing equipment. Horizon searching for orcas, which are around these waters we were told. I am sure I saw one blow and curl, but M maintained that it was only a large dolphin. No camera at the ready, so no evidence. But it was by itself, and aren’t dolphins always in flocks?

So how’ve the Orkneys been? The contrast with the Outer Hebrides could hardly have been clearer. Lewis was almost a treeless landscape of peatbogs, whereas the Orkney landscape is verdant and productive. Cattle and sheep everywhere, on newly-shorn fields and tractor eggs, and although the houses are just as colourless and even drab, there is a feeling of prosperity. The people are just as friendly and welcoming however, and always willing to have a chat, or help. Time has another dimension here, and the absence of feeling of stress is very therapeutic.

Our last day at Stromness was spent individually. Margaret went for an explore of Mainland and Kirkwall by bus and I attended to Josin’s needs and also attacked leaks. Silicone here. Fiberglass there. Duct tape other places, all in between the very impressive showers. So far, in the heavy rain last night, there seems to be success.

On our last evening we dined, yes dined, at the Havnavoe restaurant. Difficult to find in a narrow back alley. Very small, only a few tables. Family business. Parents in the kitchen, daughter receptionist/waitress, (easterly gale voice). Very good food indeed. Bookings in advance only, (we booked the day we got there). We ate royally and too much. Slow wander back to the boat. Memorable.

Walked up the jetty yesterday afternoon and there was a small fishing boat unloading. Large bucket with crabs. Could we buy one or two? “Just take some”. Really? Two OK? “More if you want”. Spread-hand size. Fresh crab for supper last night and for lunch today. Scrumptuous.

We will probably be here tomorrow too, if the forecast holds, before venturing further east to North Ronaldsay, ca 20 nm, the extreme north east island in the group. The attraction is a concert in the pub of local music, (fiddle and accordion), song and dance, which ought to be enthralling. We must experience that before we leave.

Further plans are to the marina in Kirkwall town, to “do” that. Then sail back to the Scottish mainland, to first Wick, then Lossiemouth.