Its thursday afternoon. Raining. Windy. No activity outside. Cockpit canopy up. An indoor day. Heater going. Coffee at the elbow. OK.
No pics with this, as the internet connection is occasional, GPRS standard and can really be described as snails pace.
The trip here from Stromness was again planned to take advantage of the tides and currents, and if the wind had played kind, it would have been a very pleasant sail up the coast. We were “spat” westward out of Hoy Sound in a 3 knot current, and found the predicted westerly wind when turned northward. But after the first exhilarating couple of hours, the wind gradually died, leaving many waves over which we pitched and rolled with the engine doing its reliable thing. Sea birds to watch. Sharp lookout kept for fishing equipment. Horizon searching for orcas, which are around these waters we were told. I am sure I saw one blow and curl, but M maintained that it was only a large dolphin. No camera at the ready, so no evidence. But it was by itself, and aren’t dolphins always in flocks?
So how’ve the Orkneys been? The contrast with the Outer Hebrides could hardly have been clearer. Lewis was almost a treeless landscape of peatbogs, whereas the Orkney landscape is verdant and productive. Cattle and sheep everywhere, on newly-shorn fields and tractor eggs, and although the houses are just as colourless and even drab, there is a feeling of prosperity. The people are just as friendly and welcoming however, and always willing to have a chat, or help. Time has another dimension here, and the absence of feeling of stress is very therapeutic.
Our last day at Stromness was spent individually. Margaret went for an explore of Mainland and Kirkwall by bus and I attended to Josin’s needs and also attacked leaks. Silicone here. Fiberglass there. Duct tape other places, all in between the very impressive showers. So far, in the heavy rain last night, there seems to be success.
On our last evening we dined, yes dined, at the Havnavoe restaurant. Difficult to find in a narrow back alley. Very small, only a few tables. Family business. Parents in the kitchen, daughter receptionist/waitress, (easterly gale voice). Very good food indeed. Bookings in advance only, (we booked the day we got there). We ate royally and too much. Slow wander back to the boat. Memorable.
Walked up the jetty yesterday afternoon and there was a small fishing boat unloading. Large bucket with crabs. Could we buy one or two? “Just take some”. Really? Two OK? “More if you want”. Spread-hand size. Fresh crab for supper last night and for lunch today. Scrumptuous.
We will probably be here tomorrow too, if the forecast holds, before venturing further east to North Ronaldsay, ca 20 nm, the extreme north east island in the group. The attraction is a concert in the pub of local music, (fiddle and accordion), song and dance, which ought to be enthralling. We must experience that before we leave.
Further plans are to the marina in Kirkwall town, to “do” that. Then sail back to the Scottish mainland, to first Wick, then Lossiemouth.
Josin's 2025 cruise 