Month: August 2017

In the philosophical mood this morning, having allowed the relaxed, “done it”, feeling to sink in:

So what have we learned?

The first question people ask is how did the solo North Sea crossing go. I say excellently. There are two “different” issues, (to use a word from the current vernacular), to otherwise solo sailing: 1. food and drink, and 2. sleep.

Food is dealt with by having made enough sandwiches before departure, having tour-dinners which only need pouring hot water into the bag, diverse biscuits, nuts and raisins, chocolate, fruit and energy-snacks. Enough to drink in bottles, thermoses and an electric kettle, instant soups, tea and coffee.

Sleep is learnable. The decider is enough and frequent short sleeps, starting long before one feels tired. My solution started by “learning” meditation many years ago. That 25 minute “timeout” developed into an ability to sleep for about the same period. Reliable wakeup alarms, in case the 25 minutes got stretched. They did. After three days and two nights from Lossiemouth in Scotland to Egersund in Norway, I felt a bit rough at the edges, partially having been in the same clothes for that long, but definitely not sleepy-stupid in any way.

Josin has performed admirably. A very sturdy and solid boat, taking everything in her stride. Reliable equipment. Having no worries in that area means a very great deal. An autopilot which works all the time and in all control circumstances. Enough battery capacity, (two LiFePo 100 aH managed everything). A few niggles remain, about ropes competing for the same space and too many ends without a parking place, and some mystery leaks which WILL be solved before next season. A few mods planned, primarily the cockpit canopy/spray hood, as it needs repairing anyway.

Me: I’m not too old and decrepit to both carry out and be able to enjoy the effort and sometimes stress of such a trip. My good health is a blessing! Balance excellent. Reaction time is still rapid. Adequate physical strength to cope. (Criterium for continued sailing is that I can still hoist the mainsail, without a winch!). None of this will last for ever of course, but any signals to the contrary will be heeded.

Visiting new countries and places is always an interesting experience. Why else does one travel? Doing it by boat maybe much slower than by road or rail or air, as it is distinctly non-competitive, but one does get a different perspective and life seems to be at a more relaxed and slower tempo. And harbour fees, if one wants to stay put for a day or more, are much cheaper than hotels, or even B&Bs. And there are always restaurants, and fishandchips. And anchorages are peaceful, very close to nature.

Do it again? Why not! Asked Margaret where next, and she half-seriously replied, “Ireland”. Ah, that needs thinking about. Probably too far to get there. And back. Or difficult to leave Josin there for a winter. Hire a boat there? No way! Josin for ever! But being able to spend more time up north in Norway, for example, by doing some longer, overnight stretches, rather than taking the month to get there, could well be a solution.

Life is good, and Alls Well.

First the easy bit, statistics:

8th June to 25th august, 78 days. 1806 nm logged, 1779 nm GPS. 205 engine hours. (Looks like half the distance by engine!). Weather: Everything from flat calm to strong gale. Rain: Frequent. Sunshine: Could have been more, but when it happened, we were in places where it was important. Experiences: Uncountable.

Today, from Sandefjord and home, the weather forecast said that we should be able to sail the last bit home, and so it happened, although the timing was a bit wrong and I had to dawdle past Færder to Fuglehuk while waiting for the wind, which came in gradually and only lived up to the forecast the last few miles. Never mind, I was determined to sail. Couldn’t return on the engine!  Somebody must have followed my progress on MarineTraffic, as the last few meters into the harbour were to flag wavings, horn blowings and many waving me welcome. Fantastic. Help with tying up. Handshakes. Hugs. Congratulatory remarks and a bottle of wine. Great fun! Thankyou to everybody! Maybe do it again next year?!

After a quick trip to the super for victuals, and cooking them, I’m now about ready for sleep. It has been a long day after a long and very successful trip. The welcome will carry me into dreamland.

Alls very well.

Started the day with normal, for this year, clothing layers, but by mid day it was shorts. First time this summer. Actually had to dig out the suntan cream! Forecast promises more of the same tomorrow morning. Whatdyaknow!

From Arendal Seilforening’s island through the long Tromøysund, and on, inside the islands to keep out of the waves, to Risør, the Risør Seilforening’s island, Finnøy. Not a cloud in the sky all the way, and even the breeze seemed warm. Some sailing, mostly motor as what wind there was was either inadequate or on the nose. A lot of weed in the water, and one large clump which I wasn’t quick enough to avoid got entangled in the propeller. Cleared most of it by changing gear back and forth at low revs, but the remainder got removed by diving hand at Finnøy, water temp over 17 degrees.

Back a day or two. Spent sunday, and part of monday, with good friend Svein Tangen, Ballad owner, helping him with various things, and enjoying a gentle evening sail in his boat in amongst the islands outside Lillesand. He took us “the third way” back into the harbour, through channels which looked more suitable for kayaks than sailing boats with keels. The bottom looked very close indeed, but we didn’t touch. Svein knew!

Monday afternoon we puttered on from Lillesand on the homeward journey, again with intermittent or inadequate wind, and called it a day when approaching Arendal. There were two boats tied up, and benched people, at the Seilforening’s island, who, at my hail, waved me welcome, so we stopped and was helped in tying up. Not only that, but I was invited to help with the rest of their dinner, cooling on the grill, of deerfillet, gratinated potatoes and veg. It was the missus’ birthday, and the family celebration was also because the couple had just got back from Portugal. Some surprise for me, who had been trying to decide between a chop or a chicken leg. Sailchat continued until long after sundown.

I was sorely tempted at dawn today to take a morning dip, but there was a chill breeze which discouraged me. Dip this evening instead. Maybe one tomorrow morning.

Alls well.

Woke up early this morning, made up for yesterday. Calm. Mirror water. Two swans. No sheep bells. Too cold for a dip, under 16 degrees, bad luck!

Away before 7, just as the sun peeped over the hill and lit up the scene for a short time. Half an hour on the way towards Lindesnes and the sea fog crept in, luckily with no other boats in sight. Yesterday’s waves were still active, and even more round the point due to reflexions. Bouncy. Rolly. Bit wet. Wind appeared, from the SE, not as forecast, so decided to take the inner route to Mandal, engine purring away. Plenty of navigating. Many cottages, all empty and shut up, the summer is really over. At the entrance to Mandal the wind veered to S, so we sailed hopefully on, for a while, though still with the engine running slowly. Through more islands and closed cottages, past Trægde with many dingies in neat rows, then out in the open again and almost a sailing breeze, followed by a rather wet front. That cleared up, and the wind veered a little, only to be followed soon by another front, which seemed to empty the skies. Very heavy rain flattened the small waves, but the rollers continued. Motorsailed past Kristiansand, of course with Color Line’s high speed ferry coming in at the wrong moment, but he was kind and realised we were going flat out, 7 knots, to try and get out of his way, and he did the manouvering. After the last front the wind veered right round to the SW, meaning almost right aft, but not strong enough to stop the engine. We rolled and pitched onward. Decided not to take “Blindleia”, too much navigating!

Lillesand is a well-protected harbour, with plenty of pontoon space at this time of the season. I picked out a suitable space and had almost stopped to hang out the fenders when a cabin cruiser rushed round Josin and pulled up, half in “my”space. Grrrr. Find another space. and it happened again! Not quite sure of the local hospitable feelings. 

A long day, 61 nm, in anticipation of poorer weather the next few days. Take it easy. Sika some leaky places which the heavy rain found. Dry out!

Weary now. Shuteye.  Alls well

Started a bit late yesterday, from Egersund, I think my internal clock was still on UK time. Never mind. We followed strategic course close in to land, having studied the current-charts on YR.no, and I like to think that we saved a lot of time. A fine sailing wind wafted us to and round Lista and a little beyond, before the choppy seas rocked the boat too much for the sails to hold the wind and the engine had to be started. Two other boats in the same predicament did the same, but they went in to Farsund.

Skarvøy is a place I just have to visit on my way past. Two solid places to tie up to. Well protected from most weather directions. Peaceful. Birdsong and sheep-bells for music.

And the weather today is just right for a rest day. Now, late morning, it has started to rain, as forecast, with more to come, so inside activity in a snug warm boat.  

When we got here yesterday in the warm sunny evening I was overly warm in sailing gear, so having studied two thermometers which both showed 16 degrees plus, there was no option but to take a dip. Delicious! And refreshing. Having got a glimpse of a fairly clean propeller, I decided that a proper look was called for today. On with the wet suit, boots, hood and mask, and to my teeth-chattering astonishment the whole hull and propeller were practically clean. Only a touch of the brown grass at the waterline. Must be the combination of and change between salt and fresh water. Ah, well, the cleaning task will be much simpler when Josin comes out of the water later.

The fun started when I tried to get out of the wetsuit. Much struggling, twisting and turning and an obstinate zipper revealed that I had managed to put the suit on inside-out, and the zipper-string (on the back you understand), would only pull the zipper up, not down. Pauses for thought, strategies and actions. None which worked. Travel home in a wet suit? No thanks! Solution? Knife and a slit down the front. Anyone know where I can get a wet suit repaired?

Forecast for the next few days is not promising, with mostly contrary winds, but tomorrow, especially if we start early, rounding Lindesnes will be in calm, with the engine doing its reliable thing, with maybe some sail help later to get us to Mandal at least, maybe to Kristiansand. No rush. I’m in holiday mood!

Alls well

Arrived at 17:45 local time, 15:45 GMT.   309 n. miles, 58 hours. And there were sausages and HB eggs left! (To eat now, a bit too weary to cook a meal!)  

To use a rather old-fashioned expression, I feel rather chuffed! With the right choice of weather window, it shouldn’t be at all difficult really. The sleep regime worked very well, and the food prepared before leaving was more than enough. What more problems are there? Boredom? No. Never bored, even without internet or multiple books. Watching fulmars and gannets riding the currents from the wavetops kept me enthralled. And the dolphins…. Wow! the elegance.

The rain, and the strong, not-forecast wind on the nose in the last hours was a bit of a disappointment, but that’s sailing! Now to check in at the office, and then eggs and sausages, then I’ll be ready for som shuteye I reckon.

ALL IS DEFINITELY WELL

Only 35 miles to go, with enough wind from the south to sail, without the engine, which has been running since 14:30 yesterday, when choppy seas from several directions killed the boat speed in a dying breeze and made life difficult for Rorbert the autopilot.

Peace!

Now retracing the outward-bound track back in to Egersund, which we should reach this evening.

It has been an uneventful trip, with lots of sea to look at, some birds and remarkably few ships. The odd oil installation came and went, more spectacular at night than in daytime. Some showers, but none heavy, and none to get things really wet in.

For those who are wondering how I’ve done for sleep, the answer is, enough! Gil advised that I should start early with the power-naps, (Ann’s phrase), and so I did, often, with two alarms to wake me up. No problem. After some cycles I woke just before the alarms, which was interesting. The only time I felt at all tired was early this morning, at dawn, when the edges were somewhat grotty, but after two HB eggs on marmited bread, and coffee, all was pretty much back to normal.

The highlight was maybe the dolphins. They came before the first dawn, trailing sparkling fire, especially when at speed before they dived under the bow and came up jumping out of the water the other side. Fantastic performance. They were obviously having fun, and I enjoyed a remarkable show. At times there were more than ten of them, including young/teenagers, who stuck beside their mums and copied every move. The last ones disappeared as late as nine o’clock. My neck got stiff from dashing back and forth in the cockpit and straining to watch. No problem staying alert under those conditions.

Out from Lossiemouth, we were closely followed along the last bit of the Scottish coast by a vessel from the grey-funnel line, whose powerful radar made sharp blipp-noises on my VHF. He must have either got fed up with the slow speed, or approved of Josin, and veered away south and increased speed. The blipps stopped. After that, very little activity.

I must have chosen a good weather window, as conditions have been benign really, except for the seas earlier, which were rather uncomfortable. Today is high-cloud overcast, with another front on its way apparently, but the resulting wind is very welcome.

It will be very nice to get out of all these layers of clothing when we get in, and maybe a priority shower. My rule is that it is much better to feel too warm and divest a layer rather than get cold and try and get warm again. I have been warm!

Just sighted: A skein of geese (I think), ca 40 birds, going south. A bit early isn’t it?

And Christian Radich on the radio. On her way to Haugesund, according to her sailing plan.

All’s well

Suddenly a Telenor Maritim signal!  Good progress both yesterday and today. Two very minor disasters: I sat on my sunglasses when a sharp wave made me sit. Three pieces, unrepairable. The other was the new large thermos, bought in Stornoway, it suddenly exploded as I was pouring out a cuppa, fortunately not spraying me with very hot water. 

Lovely sunny day today, with unfortunately a dying wind. On with the engine this afternoon. Rolypoly waves. ETA Egersund tomorrow evening. Noce sunset. Alls well!

Nearly at the edge, (no, not the sea, but the internet connection!), so a quick blog. Progress has been very good, with plenty of wind to push us along against the current, but the seas have been very bouncy. The tide has just changed and the direction of the current is now more with us than against, and in spite of the wind dying somewhat we are still making good speed over the ground (SOG).

There have been showers, but no sunshine yet, the earlier promise not fulfilled. With plenty of layers on, I’m plenty warm enough. It’ll get colder!

Only one fishing boat has been sharing our bits of sea so far, everyone else on the AIS seems to be anchored or moored. Boring but safe!

Alls well.

Start passage back over the North Sea.

Thursday was spent doing boat maintenance, washing and cleaning and generally getting ready. Margaret planning her next few days before flying out of LHR on the 18th and trying to get eveything back into her large trollybag, funny how things grow, isnt it? Friday we bussed into Inverness and did some necessary shopping, shared a farewell lunch (in McDonalds of all places!), and then went our separate ways. Margaret wanted to make the most of her time in the UK and planned time in both Edinburgh and York on her way south. Finding accomodation in Edinburgh took time and patience, as we hadn’t realised it was Festival time! Success in the end. I returned to Lossiemouth by train to Elgin (much quicker) and bus from there. Filled fluids and checked everything on the boat again. Then cooked and made passage food. Sausages. Eggs, HB. Sandwiches. Fruit and cheese. Sardine tins at the ready. Camping dried dinners waiting in their bags. (Haven’t tried them yet, so that will be interesting). Chocolate. Nuts. Raisins. Biscuits, (shortbread of course). Anything nourishing in fact. I will not want!

Wind is in the north west, 10 to 15 knots, over a rolypoly sea, and course is set somewhat north of direct, in order to fill the sails and sail. Seas are confused due to a south-going current and hitting the keys on this iPad is not very consistent. Forgive the spllng. Clouds are beginning to break up and the patches of blue sky are encouraging. Forecast is for the wind to gradually back more to the west, but unfortunately less of it, but we ought to be able to sail at least until tomorrow. With a High to the south later, winds will lessen further, so the engine will have to help. (Enough fuel onboard to motor all the way actually). GPS says 290 nm to Egersund. As long as speed is five knots or more we should be in on monday evening. 

Alls well.