Mallaig

We’ve got a bit of catching up to do. No decent comms signal available for days it seems. Now in Mallaig our preferred tele-provider is available, but the marina WiFi is, as usual weak and intermittent.

So, where do we start?  Why not Ben Nevis? A rare view of the top, normally covered in cloud. Pic taken at the top of Neptune’s Staircase, while waiting nearly a whole day.

I’ve sent something about The House of Trousers and Tinkers Hole, so next place of visit was Iona, on a fantastic day. The lady receptionist at the Abbey said that “It happens about once a month”. Actually, the next day was good too, so maybe we have used up two month’s worth already.

Josin, anchored off the beach at Iona, looking back towards Tinkers Hole, in not an excess of water-depth. Look at the blue sky, and the azure-blue water!

Iona was blissfully peaceful, and we had a quiet time at the Abbey, and the museum alongside, (before the first horde of trippers arrived). Beautifully restored buildings, tastefully done. A place for contemplation and meditation. 

Amazing history has Iona, going back to the 500’s, later including Vikings, firstly as raiders, later as converts and settlers.

So, after a fairly short stay, the tide was going rapidly out, we pottered on north to Staffa, an incredible island of geological uniqueness. Hexagonal rock columns with rock-bushy hats.

And Fingal’s Cave, a deep, mystical space, and outside, a school of dolphins playing to us tripper boats. A memorable experience!

Then on to Tobermory, picturesque,very bright colourful, semi-circular, in two levels. A glue hole, somebody uttered, (you get stuck, can’t get away).

Excellent facilities for boaties, and price to match. It was fairly late when we got there, and the restaurant close by easily enticed us. Scallops, large, in two varieties. Yum. Local industry farms, (breeds?) them, also mussels and diverse shellfish. Fresh produce therefore.

A long visit to the local museum, a history of Mull mainly, gave much thought for reflection. Especially a pitiful period called “The Clearance”, where the crofters suffered from failed harvests and poor fishing, and very many were moved, a lot from Tobermory to America.

A splendid ironmongers, with everything, except no buckets hanging from the ceiling, (too low), but including the sale of spirits. Bought hinges, not quite the right sort, but they’ll do. And an anchor buoy, and a kilo of suitable, bright orange twine, (looks more than enough). Margaret had a long walk on the upper town level, while I fixed things.

Evening and a meal. We’d aimed at the fish restaurant at the end of the jetty, but it was booked out until eight thirty, so we hungrily retraced our steps to the fish&chips van, for one haddock, one cod, and a small chips, and almost ran the way back to the boat before it all got cold. Very good indeed, and more than enough chips.

Next day, now friday, a departure slightly delayed to await the rain stopping, and off to the north west to round Ardnamurchan peninsular. Tides. Currents. Choppy seas. Headwind. Engine. The lighthouse at the point is the only one in built in the Egyptian Style. (Useful info in the Sailing Directions). Then head north east, calmer seas and sailing, until the wind died, and the engine started again. Later a south westerly came in and we sailed all the way to Mallaig, just not getting there before the next front caught up with us and rained us into the harbour. Very busy ferry and fishing harbour, with prominent traffic lights at the entrance. Necessary. Call up on channel 9 for permission to enter. Barely comprehensible marina manager telling us where to tie up. Done. Up with the cockpit canopy and retire to heated warmth. Bangers and mash for supper, quite excellent, and early to bed.

A rainy day today. Marine manager warned of the steam train arriving at 12:30, which will disgorge about 400 trippers, some dressed as magicians, (this train was the one used in the Harry Potter films, and the locals know how to utilise that), so we will wait until the train departs again before sussing out the town. WP. Must be a F&C shop here too.  

Alls well