Yes, we did sail, some of the way at least, to Svolvær, in rather bumpy conditions. The SW’er had blown up quite a sea, and the waves hadn’t died down much. As the wind gradually died, we got thoroughly rolled and I was glad we finally entered the harbour. We were fortunate that another boat left a pontoon just before we got there, so we could squeeze into the otherwise overfull guestharbour, right in the center of town.
I wanted to see more of the area, and as we hade “done” most of the Lofoten chain on previous occasions, this time it was to be by bus. About as far north as I could get, and back, in a day was Andenes, on Andøy. So, 09:40, bus, bus, ferry, bus, Sortland coffee break, bus, bus, Andenes, dinner break, bus, bus, bus Svolvær 20:45. Amusing waiting at the bus station in Svolvær, a gradual gathering croud of hopeful travellers. Bus waiting. “No, no. Not this bus, but buy ticket, ticket”. Actually quite rational, as the customers were from many lands and the buying-ticket process took much time, especially as the ticket-seller spoke very little, but repetitive, English. Rapid boarding of the travelling bus resulted. Comfortable ride. Good views, even though the weather was overcast and the light very flat. So, as the bus windows were not very clean, no pics, sorry! Interval on the ferry, enough for a sandwich and coffee, then on a smaller bus, with lower seatbacks and better view.
The landscape was incredibly varied, from almost flat to towering and surprisingly green mountains. A new view around each corner, of which there were many. Busy driver! New fjord-inlet, with tied-up fishing boats. Little bay with dingies moored. Green pastures, newly cut hay and tractor-eggs. Few active farms. Many small ones looking tired and abandoned. Several farmhouses tidied up and used as a summer cottoge. East side of Andøy mostly peatbog, including one area actively cut. Enormously distant views of fjords and the northern ocean. No reindeer. Many gulls. One sea eagle, hunting.
The last bus from to Andenes turned out to be different. Gradually fewer passengers until just two left. A french girl and me. Interesting ‘conversation’ between french girl and driver, she wanting help to find her friends in Andenes, in very quiet Franglish. He, much louder, repetitive, in Norwenglish. I moved forward and interlocuted. Yes, some school- French helped. Arrived in Andenes and the driver was very helpful, shouting to friends, (he was from the next village), some of them visible, until the French girl was safely guided. Calm ensued, and I asked the driver where the return bus went from. ” You want to see the west side?” Er, yes please. OK. You be there! Bus shelter! Four o’clock sharp! OK? Sure I’ll be there. The somewhat later bus which I was supposed to catch travelled the same route back, not so interesting.
Just time for a visit to the local “Fengselet”, (jail), actually a restaurant, and a delicious fish soup, large bowl and lots of good things in it. Five to four and I joined a talkative youth in the bus shelter, hiding from the weather. Four precisely, the bus arrived with the wind and rain helping it along. The same driver, who chatted with the youth and another passenger on local news. Next village, his home, and the two others decended. So I had the bus, and the driver to myself for the next hour or so. Most enjoyable, entertaining and educational. He was a mine of info. Stopped for a wet and distant view of the launching site for testing of missiles. (Colleagues from Kongsberg have certainly spent time here). Stopped the bus to look at a rocky mountainside falling into the sea, with a large cross under a sort of overhang. Popular place to get married apparently. Stopped to encourage taking photo of the spectacular rock formations further along the coast. Unfortunately too much rain for risking the camera, so no pics. Finally an offer to organise other buses, so I could travel other ways back to Svolvær. Yes please! His mobile busy. Big smile and all in order. We wait for the next bus at the side of the road. Big handshake goodbye, and a thousand thanks. Absolutely rememberable afternoon. He probably enjoyed it almost as much as I did. What an incredible service! Nice people up her north. Similar bus-exchange further on, after a ten minute pause, with well-earned shut-eye. A long day for that driver apparently. Last bus the same as the first, pretty full, and less view, and the same ‘ticket ticket’ driver, now silent. Back in Svolvær again, neck- and eye-tired, buy hot pizza, eat, bed and sleep. What a day!
And so back across the Vestfjord, with an almost-sailable wind, and a lunch stop in Skrova on the way, just so as we’d done that. On the way out of Skrova, who should come drifting in in all her sailing magnificance, was Eileen 11, a recently-restored schooner form the thirties. I felt very little, and almost new!
Back in Nordskot, a visit to the local museum, with a very large and well-preserved collection of old boat engines, and a knowledgeable guide. And a pleasant evening on board “New Horizons” from Aldeborough, where Gruncle used to enjoy a sail, according to our yellowing photo album. Today rain again, and a somnolent wait for the event of the evening, a talk by a famous explorer and adventurer. Here in this little place? Apparently a popular climbing area.
Next, potter south, to Kjerringøy on the 12th, for the start of the Old Boats and Coast Culture rally.
All’s well
Josin's 2025 cruise 