From Selsøyvik via Bolga to Støtt. (pos: 66 55.53 / 013 26.25).
Still the same old wind direction, but a nice sunny day. Just out of the Selsøyvik channel, and heading east to the wide fjord, a large ship appeared from behind Rødøy. A coastal steamer. These ply the west coast, from Bergen all the way round to Kirkenes. (Same procedure every day). I turned around and pottered back to near the Selsøyvik channel, because that is on their route, and I wanted to see how it fitted, as the channel isn’t all that wide. No problem of course, but I’m glad I wasn’t in the way.
A while later, an even bigger ship appeared, coming south. Saga Sea, one of these gigantic cruise ships. 7 decks of cabins, all with outside view and small balcony. I was prepared for a large wash and bouncy bouncy, but no. Astonishingly small wash, and no need to take avoiding action at all. Ships designers must have got it right!
Strange meteorological phenomena. Humidity was high and each island produced a hat-cloud. Rødøy produced a series of hats, which drifted downwind. Thought of “Puff the Magic Dragon”, but it was the “Lion” of Rødøy which was doing the puffing.
Bolga was sort of on the way, so we had a lunch stop there. Not much going on, except when the ferry came, thump, and went. The local shop received fresh pastries, so one was bought to enjoy with the after-lunch coffee. (Yes Margie, very sticky!).
Støtt has a very unusual guest harbour, with a low island in the middle of the approach, and a large sign, readable even for rheumy eyes, shouting the depth at low tide each side. It was low tide. A large cabin cruiser occupied the end berth on the deep side, effectively blocking that route, so we crept round the shallow side, with a nominal half meter to spare. The waters here around are an incredibly clear green, (must have something to do with the cold temperature), and the bottom was very visible and apparently very close. No bump. No problem.
Støtt has also a very good restaurant. Went in to pay the harbour dues, and there was a couple with the most beautifully presented plate of fish. Had to have it! Baked dried cod, with bacon bits, mushy peas, (ah, the colour and taste!), new potatoes and flower-like garnish.
Yes it was also very good to eat. Too replete for desert. Needed some exercise afterwards, so wandered, and arrived at the ferry jetty just before the ferry docked. Same vessel as was seen at Bolga earlier. And the same “driver”. Much use of revs to maneuver and a goodly thump on final arrival. The ex-tractor tires took a beating.
From Støtt via Fleinvær to Bliksvær.
Weather forecast for the next day was for a gentle (northerly), warm sunny day, with easterly breeze later. So the gennaker on it’s new roller-furler was removed from the locker where it has been stowed for a month, and hoisted, preparatory to expected use. Yes, the forecast was partially right, but the wind blew at 20 to 25 knots instead of the forecast 10 to 15, so the sail stayed furled. Pity. Great sailing on the genoa only though.
Fleinvær is a large collection of islands, previously with fishing communities, but now the houses are mainly holiday homes. Some new ones, some startling!
Also with good, sheltered anchoring places, so we anchored for lunch and a short snooze, it was that sort of windless lazy. But also good conditions for more leakage-seeking and stopping. Decided to re-caulk the windows, in the hope that that would help. Then the weather changed, as expected, and we were blown to Bliksvær.
Lots more islands and a tricky way in to the small harbour, and place for three guest boats. There were two there already, and the space in between looked just slightly more than Josin long. Check. Strong current upset my approach calculations somewhat, but defensive help from the other boats saved the day.
Apparently there is only one permanent resident, and he built a small church, as the burial ground didn’t have one.
PS. this is sent from Bodø. Intermittent internet. Hope it goes.
Alls well
Josin's 2025 cruise 