Month: July 2015

Oh dear. Just realized that the other language took command!  Please forgive me you kind, only English-speakers. Try GoogleTranslate! 

Gammal losstasjon. Solid, men liten, kai. En Svensk seilbåt på den andre siden, med lokalkjent ektepar fra Gävle. Mange gode råd om steder lenger sørover. 

På Skärsö igår, på en kunstutstilling av nydelige akvareller, (for stor og dyr!), traff jeg Stefan, pensjonert Redningsselskapet. En kopp te lokket ham ombord, og da fortalt han om, og viste på kartet, en “innaskjærs” route sørover. Bra. Hadde ikke lyst på en ny gårsdagen ute i havet. Det var artig idag, med gunstig vind, i retning, om litt vel sterk, å følge hans råd. Enkelte ganger var jeg noget engstlig, men siden han var med i kommunens farled komittee, og forsikret at det var 3-D dybdelogget ifjor, hele strekningen, gikk det bra. Artig!  Han også anbefalte dette stedet, og anbefalingen slo til. Vinden har nå løyet, bukten ligger speil og skyene har forsvunnet, da blir det en finfin kveld.

Mandag morgen: Etter middagen igår, ble jeg bedt om bord nabobåten for en ‘sundowner’, deres rutine når solen skinte. Jeg tok te, som var like fin i kveldingen. Hyggelig kveld. Kjølig etterhvert. 

Idag er det 15 kt nordavind, og vi seiler for fulle seil og finfin fart sørøstover, mot Öregrund. Det blir mange mil. Vi ruller en god del, så Rorbert autopilot må jobbe, men han holder kurs. Det er overskyet, høye slørskyer, som forhåpentligviis forsvinner. 

All’s well, from a humble SailorJohn

Plan C as it turned out. Forecast was, er, inexact. Wind direction from south, correct. Wind stength, up to 12 knots, grossly understated. Wave height 0,5 meters, ditto. Cloudy, with showers, no, heavy cloud and very wet rain. The increasing southerly wind, creating waves in our south-facing mooring, rocked me awake very early. So, up and at it. Could be a long-distance day? Well, no! Outside the protection of islands, the head-to-wind-and-waves, both increasing, instigated Plan B. Harbour only 15 miles away. After an hour’s bashing and rolling, the rain arrived, in bucketfulls, so Plan C, scuttling in to the nearest, (pinpointed in yesterday evening’s planning) protected harbour, now less than an hour away. A labyrinthine entry, very well marked, into a small jetty and help to tie up in the strong wind. Very comfortable here, with a large, picturesque restaurant specialising in fish. Look forward to dinner tonight. 

Main activity today? Drying out! Amazing how the spray and rain can seep their moisture into everything, The sun is succeding in it’s efforts to shine, the wind is not abating and relative humidity has therefore sunk significantly. Boating! What price an inland garden?

All’s getting better, from SailorJohn

long, motorsailing day to Sundsvall, to the sailing club marina. Rather dilapidated and out of date, but still functioning. There was a sloping ladder/mastcrane there, something I have been looking for, so as to get to the top of the mast to get the nav-lights to work, but unfortunately conditions didn’t calm down enough. Too many wash-waves from passing boats. Better luck somewhere else later. Chatted with the old salts caressing their coffee mugs on the clubhouse veranda before turning in early. Next morning puttered over to the town’s guest harbour, to fill up with diesel and go food shopping. About fifteen minutes walk in to the town square. There were dragons everywhere, look at this for a sample. Not too scary really!  Sundsvall is a friendly place. 

 
Enormous variety, brightly coloured, each one sponsored by a company. Apparently there is a ceremony every autumn when they get put away for the winter, and another, more festive, in the spring, when they are brought out again. Very popular with the kids, of all ages. The town’s emblem is a large “S” with a dragon’s head. Original!

Washing machine and tumbler drier available, so that was convenient, and, because I was just pipped in the queue, departure was delayed until late afternoon. An energetic sail in lots of wind and waves, and rain, took us in record speed to a Cruising Club’s very sheltered small jetty in amongst the islands for the night. The weather was still blistery, and the floating jetty grumbled and squeaked most of the night. Earplugs necessary!

Left at a reasonable hour this morning, in an excellent sailing wind on the stern, but unfortunately with yesterday’s waves and swell still active. A rolypoly ride, hand steered, as Rorbert the autopilot couldn’t cope. The wind gradually died, and without the stabilising effect of the sails, motoring in those conditions was not comfortable, so I found an SXK buoy in a sheltered bay, pos 67 37.9 / 017 21.4, for an early stop, in the hopes of better conditions tomorrow. Forecast is for southerly breezes and rain. Lets hope it is wrong!

Only two more sailing-days until we are back to where we left Sweden to go to Åland. The weather will decide if we visit western Åland. Definitely on the way home it seems!

All’s well, from SailorJohn

Wednesday: Quieter day yesterday. From Ulvösund to Högbonden, mostly motoring. Tied up at Högbonden, at the small, rather fierce-looking part of the jetty not used by the touristboats. Lo! There comes one. Big wash, even though he slowed down 100 m from arrival. The short, sharp waves made Josin dance violently, the railing caught the jettyedge and got bent, a fender punctured and two of four mooring lines snapped. Dramatic, but it could have been worse, if the two last lines had broken! I could do nothing but observe, and curse inwardly at the ferryboat captain. Don’t think he even noticed. Too busy changing passengers and getting away again. 

Chasened, and re-moored, I climbed the path to the lighthouse/cafeteria/view. Warm sun on pineneedles, haphasard lichened and foot-worn stone and tree roots all reminded strongly of Norway. Viewed the view took some pics and studied the ferryboat timetable. Oh dear, he is on his way back again. Rushed back down the path, (within danger limits of course), only to see him disappearing back to Barsta. Relief. Josin still there and securely tied up. No more apparent damage. Maybe he saw what happened previously. 

  
Pottered in to Barsta. Mostly campervans, caravans and tents. Two other boats, one a resident. Paid my dues and  wandered around, then over to the restaurant/shop in the hopes of a meal. No. Closed and for sale. Back to the remaining meatballs and broccoli. Sechuan sauce. Cosmopolitan if nothing else! 

Went for a walk up the road in the evening sunshine, finding almost-ripe wild strawberries in the verges. And a sign saying fish for sale. Byroad. Gravelly. Lead to a white house and red barn, and a welcoming fisherman, and yes, here was smoked sik. Also a group of corpulent and jocular men, with beer in hand, tending a large and smoking grill. Back to boat, followed for a way by a blackandwhite cat, which stroked my shins, with two smoked sik, lunch for two days, at least. Thunderstorm evening and sudden short-lived rain. Clean decks. Early to bed. 

Today (dip in 14,5 degrees), a 7 am start, a motor-sailing, longish, day to Sundsvall, alone on the sea so far. Again the wind forecast is wrong,  Clouds clearing gradually, so maybe it’ll turn out to be a warmish day. 

All’s well from SailorJohn. 

Very long day yesterday, nearly 50 miles with a strong sailing wind over the stbd quarter, avge speed 5,7 kt, must be a record! Fun, but the motion was a bit wearying. Quiet night at the buoy, undisturbed by the goings-on on shore. Quick dip in 15,2 water. Puttered over the sound to the fuel dock, only to find a notice saying “Empty, more on Wednesday”. So. Away in a SSW direction a couple of hours motoring, (no wind today after yesterday’s blow) to the highest lighthouse “Högbonden”, on this part of the coast, called “Höga kyst” , which means high coast. Tis at least higher than I’ve seen for weeks, and a different look to it altogether. Almost like Norway! There are shapes on the horizon, not just thin smudges. The sun is trying to burn off the clouds, so maybe it will turn into a nice touristy day. 

All’s well, from SailorJohn. 

See now that an earlier post, from Åland, has suddenly appeared, several weeks late. Mystery. Sorry!

The wind didn’t die down at Valassaaret until pretty late, so I stayed the night. The other little speedboat decided that at 10 pm the conditions were Ok for them, so they left. So Josin, me and the birds. By sitting very still, they gradually decided that I was not a danger, so carried on with their lives. Again many swifts, nesting in amongst the jetty timbers. Terns diving and fishing, and missing. An eagle no less, tho rather far away. 

Next morning it was again blowing, so I had an extra hour’s sleep and a wait in the hopes. Went for a wander along overgrown paths. Old foundation stones, with information post and illegible, faded text. Ruins of a quite large boat ramp, rusty rails and bleached beams. More modern things, like the remains of a meteorological station, all stainless steel posts with nothing on the top platforms. Large and rust-grey tanks lurking in the bushes behind no-entry black and yellow tape, and oozing diesel vapours. (Wonder if the leak is strong enough to collect?) Many signs of abandoned activities. Sad, but understandable. 

Left at about ten, with a beam, 15 to 20 kt wind and sizeable waves, and rushed and swooped at max speed most of the way. Approaching the Swedish coast four hours later, the wind gradually subsided, but the waves took a little longer, and the last bit was very active! The book of harbour places recommended this place, but was obviously not up to date This island, a former site of a very, very large timbermill, is also showing the same signs of abandonment and decay. (Photos still will not download unfortunately). The previous manager-dwelling, now a hotel and restaurant, has a large ‘for Sale’ sign, and no activity. I was greeted on my arrival by a very friendly native who was just about to go out in his runabout. – From Norway? All that way? Yes, by all means stay, and there is power if you want. No, no charge. Nobody to organise you see. Welcome anyway! Sometimes you hit lucky!  Again I have wandered, and found some of the mill buildings, now a museum, and cafe with four guests. Most of the houses are now of course summer places, and with obviously recently cut ‘lawns’. Many large and beautiful trees, but the ‘under’growth is ‘over’. Large sign saying “sheep from the farm” or somesuch, but they would have had trouble with the knee- and thigh-high grass. Lovely flowers though. 

Forcast is for more northerly winds, which is good, but with chance of rain, which is not so good. We’ll see. Further to the south west whatever. All’s well, from SailorJohn

Very fast sail over the  “Ålands Sea”. Stopped at the most southerly harbour, Rødhamn, for a late lunch, then motorsailed up to Mariehamn. Will be here two nights. Need to do some shopping. WiFi on the boat doen’t work here, but there is a (poor) WiFi connection here in the marina, maybe because I chose a pen away from the shore, to avoid the noise.  Åland is one hour ahead of Norway. It is now 22:00 local time and the sun hasn’t set yet. Anyway, sleepytime. 

an island half way between mainland Finland and Sweden. Tall lighthouse. Used to be a Coastguard station, but that moved to a less-exposed place a few years ago, where I spent last night actually. Used to be agriculture and fishing here too, but all gone now. Just tourists and the occasional boat. 

   
 
Read all about it!

Started from Vaasa yesterday afternoon, having waited for the weather to be more clement. But the clouds brewed again and one enormous thundercloud built up and changed the playing field sufficiently that I put in to a plan B harbour. There to be met by first a very fierce-sounding dog, which turned out to be very tame and friendly, then by inquisitive coastguards and customs. They simpathized, and when they heard where I was heading, produced and gave me detailed chart copies of the best way of getting here. All over sea areas blank white on my charts. No, it’ll be fine, there are lots of new nav-aids. No problem!  Slightly sceptical, but very grateful, we did it this morning. Yes, plenty of markers and lead-lines. Piece of cake! Wind was light and sailable to begin with but gradually increased and veered on to the nose, so the engine did its thing admirably most of the way.

Nice spot for lunch this. Jetty good for four boats, two tied up. The other one a small speed boat with a 175hp engine and three diverse gents out for a ‘cruise’. Asked me if I knew where they could buy petrol! Two other tripperboats came, deposited their cargo, who were to walk the nature trail to the other side of the island, and left. Back to us two waiting for the wind to die down a bit. Foecast so, but it hasn’t happened yet. Only about four hours for Josin to a suitable haven in Sweden, so I can well wait quite patiently, and eat the last of the Vaasa-market cherries, and snooze ………

Josin’s WiFi is talking to Sweden. Back in the internet world again, so: All’s well from SailorJohn. 

It is raining. Long time since. Back to chilly unfortunately. Warm inside, got an electric heater going!

Very long day yesterday, woke just after 5, away at 6:20, lunch stop for an hour, (including zizz) arrive Vasa at 18:40, just before the rain started, 62 nautical miles motorsailing.  Done partly as an experiment to see how it went, because time is running out, and the goal of Haparanda and the end of the Baltic is still a ways to go. Done some pencil-chewing arithmatic before breakfast this morning, fortified for the effort by an extra cup of tea. Started May 25th, therefore 44 days gone, and must assume the same to get home again, takes us to 25 August. It is still at least six normal days to Haparanda, and six back, which would mean home in at least one week into September. The later in the summer the less reliable the weather, so the conclusion is straght forward. No more Finland. Bad luck! No, not really, just too many days rebuilding the electrics, (very successful bytheway, except at the top of the mast!), which just had to be done before a summer’s cruise. No worries, must leave some white spaces on the Scandinavian charts. Wouldn’t be any mystery left otherwise, would there?  

What I didn’t really appreciate when planning this trip was how many more boat-miles there are in Finland, partly in Åland too, compared to crowfly-miles.  Finland’s west coast is very shallow with myriads of islands, rocks etc, and the towns, and therefore harbours and facilities, are almost always down a fjord or so from the sea, and take half a day to get there and back. Much navigating everywhere else. Staight line progress is therefore slower than usual. NB for those who follow. The relatively shallow waters means that choppy seas develop quickly outside the skerries in any wind, and make sailing rather less than comfortable, so inside the skerries is milder, but wind-sheltered of course. Compromises here too, as in life otherwise!

 As long as one keeps to the marked channels, navigating is easy and reliable. Very well marked all the way, especially the main route. Paper charts are still, in my opinion, necessary, as well as the apparent advantages of electronic ones. My combination of overview paper, detailed paper and an iPad with Navionics charts is hard to beat. Safe. Expensive though!

Must go and negotiate with the harbourmaster to get the WiFi to behave, before I can post this, and look at the weather forecast, and,and,and.  My on-board ICE WiFi works well in the rest of Scandinavia, but doesn’t reach Finland. The in-harbour WiFi generally leaves a lot to be desired. 

All is otherwise well, from SailorJohn.